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PartSelect Number PS2061226
This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The hardest part of the job was getting the upper light cover panel off. That involved pushing the back of the panel up to unclip the hooks and then pulling the whole piece forward. Remove the five screws holding the upper light assembly to the roof of the fridge to drop it down. The Adaptive Defrost Enclosure is sitting in a plastic recess in the back of the light assembly. After replacing it (the wires just plug in the side of it) I reinstalled everything. It took about 24 hours to see a difference because the freezer was so iced up. The next time I think that I would manually defrost the freezer with a hair drier to speed things up.
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I popped out the side panel to the right of the ice maker and removed the ice tray-then used a nutdrive to remove the screw under the ice maker. Lifted up on the unit , dropped it down and used a flat head screwdriver to press the tab in on the electrical connector at the rear-then removed the unit from the Freezer. The end cap that covers the controls on the old unit snapped off easily as did the small metal tab (both needed to be placed on the new one) and I re-installed the new ice maker doing the reverse of the removal. Watch to make sure that the white rubber water line goes back into place as you remount the ice maker in the Freezer. As for the thermostat, I loosened the temperature control cover in the top of the refrigerator by pulling down on it, needed to pull out a bit to clear the control levers-easier if they're centered on the 5. I removed the retaining screw in the center of the rear of the cover using a nutdriver, and that lowered the cover enough to remove the screws that held the thermostat assembly in the upper right (also using the same nutdriver that worked on everything else). I removed the electrical connector from the old thermostat and attached it to the new one. The old thermostat didn't have a cover on it like the new one, and it was easier to make sure that the electrical connector was attached by popping the cover apart-attaching the connector, and then snapping it back together. The new unit snapped into place by pressing down firmly, then I re-assembled the cover plate doing the reverse of the removal. If you don't count the two hours that I spent defrosting the freezer coils with a hair dryer-these were FAST repairs, and the refrigerator is running like new again
My refrigerator would stop cooling and some googling led me to the PartSelect page where I learnt why this could be happening. For the first time, I just used a hair-dryer to remove all the ice from the freezer. But when I ran into the same problem about 15-20 days later, I decided to replace the ADP board. I ordered the part from PartSelect and it arrived promptly. I started out looking into the freezer section for the ADP board, but after spending 15-20 minutes there, realized that the ADP board is in the refrigerator section. Dont make the same mistake. It took me some time to take the top-panel out but the instructions by others were awesome. Another note: the ADP board is on the inner-side (hidden side) of the top panel. So, you have to actually pull down the top-panel after taking out all the screws. Getting the existing ADP board was a little hard as well and I ended up breaking the latch that holds it securely with the connector (but not a problem since I was going to throw the old ADP board anyway). Overall, I was quite happy to fix this myself. Thanks and kudos to PartSelect for hosting this forum.
Like the others, pull out the freezer baskets on the bottom of the frezzer and remove the condenser coil cover. If the coils are solid ice, you have a problem with the unit not defrosting properly. Defrost the coils with a hair dryer (takes about 30 minutes) to get you back to a fridge that'll work for a few days until the new adaptive defrost control board arrives. Then follow directions provided by all the others to replace the board.
If you own a Maytag appliance you need to be a handyman or you will go broke keeping them working. I replaced the defrost element in the freezer compartment after defrosting the coils with a heat gun. This did not fix the problem. I then ordered the defrost assy.,adaptive and installed it.You have to take out the plastic cover in the top of the refrigerator then the screw in the back of the fridge and the two screws in the top by the light bulbs. Then pull the assembly down and the unit is in the top right hand side. Pull it out and install the new one. Everything seems to be working until something else breaks and it will.
Pull the cover of the top assembley in the fridge forward. remove the screws holding the assembly to the roof of the fridge. The Adaptive Defrost Assy circuit board is locadeted in th reare right hand side.
The ice cubes started to melt, the water ran down the ice chute and closed the fountain switch which is usually open untill a glass is pressed against it. This caused the ice door solenoid to overheat. It melted the front fountain case it was mounted in and also the plastic ice door mechanism lever was attached to. In fact it even pushed through and melted the back panel case into the styrine insulation. Then at some point, certain components on the fountain control board must have fried out (evidenced by blackening) effectively turning off the power to the melting solenoid and it probably stopped a fire from resulting.I read somewhere on the internet that 90% of the time, all it takes to start a Gurger that quits is a whack to the temp control inside the fridge compartment. So I tried it and my fridge started right up. What a neat trick! It also said to get a new Cold Temp Control asap because once the contacts stick, they're going to continue to stick. I also ordered all the parts I needed for the fountain repair through PartSelect.com.I kept my old Gurger running for 3 days by whacking the Cold Temp Control, but now realize that the practice should be classified as a qwick diagnoses method only and not a temporary fix because guess what's mounted right beside the Cold Temp Control under the panel case? Yes - you guessed it (but I didn't)! The fabled and much dreaded ADCB, or "Adaptive Defrost Control Board"!After three days of getting whacked, the contacts in the relay mounted on the ADCB gave up the ghost.After removing the ADCB, I shook it and the relay rattled loudly indicating it was shot. Jump wiring the Cold Temp Control at this point was useless. I should have jump wired the cold temp control to begin with, and pluged and unpluged my old gurger to keep it running while waiting for parts.While diagnosing the ADCB (with the Cold Temp Control jumped, closed) I noticed I had power on both wires to all motors (circulation fan, evaporator fan, and compressor) which very effectively keeps them from running, and that's what led me to suspect the relay on the ADCB.The hardest part to installing the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB is putting the large mounting panel back into the top inside of the fridge. Connecting the harness connectors and getting all the wires back in their routing positions while also fitting the temp probe through the hole in the side of the compartment and also the lead to the probe back into it's routing position so that everything fits before the panel can be reattached.My old regurgertator has been running perfectly now since I put in the new controls, however the fountain control board is still back ordered. When I get it and reassemble, believe me, I will be using plenty of silicon caulking to shield that ice/water contact switch .... somthing somebody at Maytag should of thought of. And as long as they're thinking, why not put some mounting space between the Cold Temp Control and the ADCB so we can whack it in an emergency, and why not make both controls easily serviceable? I'll be looking for these things in the next Gurger I buy. Hope this helps with yours.
I watched your video, took notes, ordered the parts and installed them. Refrigerator works great. Might not have needed all three components, however I live in a remote part of Alaska so I ordered the works. Thinking that the other parts were also well used also and probably close to failure. THE REFRIGERATOR IS WORKING LIKE NEW. Your delivery time was astonishing. I order alot over the internet. The video was very well filmed and had all the right info, easy to understand. I would like to do business with you again. But you'll have to wait awhile for this frig to break again. Thanks alot.
removed 7 screws, unpluged themodule then reassembled the unit
At first I had to defrost the radiator unit. I thought the defrost heater and thermostat was bad so I replaced both. A week later same problem. I signed up for your forum and found and exact description of my problem and the possible fix. I ordered the Adaptive defrost unit. I had to remove the light shield which pulled forward and had to push up at rear clips to release. Then removed 3 1/4 screws to drop the light unit. 2 more 1/4 screws to remove the circuit brd (Adaptive Defost unit) and one connector. I re-assembled has worked fine since. Thanks
First I removed the top shelf and its contents to allow for more room. Then I removed the plastic temperature control housing by tugging housing forward and releasing it from the two clips located at the upper rear corners of the fridge. Then pull down. Then I removed the three screws holding the entire temperature control assembly and dropped it down to access and remove defrost assy. Installed new defrost assy. and re-assemble in reverse. Change light bulbs before replacing final housing. Also, a good time to clean housing interior before re-installing.
I followed the videos supplied for the two parts. Everything looked exactly as he described in the videos. Took about an hour. Some patience required for the Adaptive Defrost Timer...just a bit tedious to get the cover off and the area released from the top of the fridge.
After doing some reading on the internet, someone had mentioned that the drain hole in the freezer might be clogged. Of course, I did not know where to look exactly. I heard the buzzing sound one day and opened the fridge. I placed my hand right under the area that was concealed and isolated roughly (by touch) where the noise was coming from. I started to pull off the cover where the water filter was and started unscrewing with a nutdriver and screwdriver about 5 to 6 screws until I loosened things enough to get the cover off partially. I felt a part and also found a diagram of the fridge. The part felt hot to the touch. After looking at the diagram, I realized that it was the adaptive defrost timer making the noise. I decided to order the part because it was worth it to try fixing and while everything was open, I figured I'd change all the light bulbs as well. Luckily, I have another fridge in my basement and moved all food to that fridge. I unplugged the troublesome fridge and let it defrost. I also removed all the shelves from the freezer and fridge so they could be cleaned. I did not take any pictures, so it took me a while to put them back when it was time. I also located the evaporator in the freezer section. I had to unscrew the back cover to get to it. I noticed that that area behind the cover was also iced up, so I found the source. Sure enough, the drain plug was clogged and water started to accumulate. I unscrewed the evaporator from the top and sheet metal pan from the bottom and removed the pan. I opened up the bottom rear of the fridge so I could located the drain hose and drip tray it fed into. I noticed the pan was totally dry. I removed the hose from the drain plug and stuck an awl from the bottom of the plug going into the freezer and finally dislodged whatever dust and grime was in there and the water started coming through. I then took a can of compressed air and shot it into the drain plug. I also shot compressed air onto the condenser and fan to clean things up a bit (make it a little easier for the condenser to release its heat). I reinstalled the drain hose and ran some white vinegar from the inside. It flowed nicely into the pan. I dried everything up. I also decided that this was the perfect time to clean the fridge and all of its components on the inside (it is a side by side - so both the freezer and fridge area). This took some time, especially disassembling the drawers. At the end, after replacing all bulbs except the 2 small ones by the control area, I removed the old adaptive defrost timer and it took me a good 15 minutes to line up the new one. The new one is bigger than the old one and also encased. I had a hard time getting the plug on since it was hard to see. I was putting this in while the control section was hanging down at a 35 degree slant. Room was limited. I managed to connect the plug and then had to position the ADT so it would fit in its spot perfectly. Only then was I able to put the screws that hold it there. It needed to sit perfectly in there, which it did. I changed the 2 bulbs and put everything back together. Of course, in the middle of all this, I had a video on your site explaining how to remove the control panel and install the ADT. Pretty funny stuff. Pretty much did it the same way. Getting the cover off is a little difficult because the back left corner gets caught even when you pull down on it. It took me a while to realize where the cover was getting stuck. Nevertheless, I finished the repair and the fridge seems to be working great for now. I am keeping my I on it. I haven't heard any buzzing noises and no ice has built up on the bottom of the freezer yet. In fact, this is the quitest my fridge had been for a long time. Hopefully, it was last a few more years. Knock on wood.
I followed the video that is posted on the site. It went exactly as it described, and was very straight forward and fairly easy to do.
I actully did two replacements at one time. I replaced the defrost heater and thermostat plus the adaptive defrost. I chose to replace both as I had no way of diagnosing which was the problem (excecept for the heater of course). Firstly make sure you keep track of where the screws come from when you disassemble the plastic and metal panels. Once the coil is defrosted in the freezer, it is easy to remove the panel covering the coil, then it is very easy to remove and replace the thermostat and heater. Just be careful to route the wires the same way as the origional configuration and do not force anything near the coil evaporator coil as it is only aluminum. The adaptive defrost component is simple to change out, the hard part is to CAREFULLY remove the plastic panels under which is located the adaptive defrost. Again, remember where the screws go and how the parts go together. The video for changing out the adaptive defrost is extremely helpful. Patience, patience and more patience is required when fooling with the bits of plastic. Allow plenty of time to do the project and do not rush. All of the parts go together like a jig saw puzzle but are very logically assembeled. Good Luck, I saved about $300 in doing these fixes my self.
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