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PartSelect Number PS2061226
This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I unplugged the refrigerator.Then removed the outer plastic cover inside the refrigerator compartment...it just snaps in & out.Used a nutdriver to remove screws from the inner cover & let that just hang down.Located the Adaptive Defrost Timer & unplugged the wiring harness.Removed the old Adaptive Defrost Timer & replaced it with the new one.Reassembled everything in reverse order as stated above.Then I plugged the refrigerator back in & set the control setting to the coldest settings.The freezer side was cooling down much quicker than the refrigerator compartment, but after a couple of hours, everything was working very well.Note: The freezer compartment needs to be totally defrosted sometime before or after this repair is made, which can take a whole day or better!
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like everyone else, I had trouble getting the left uper plastic fastener to release and ended up breaking it. very poor design. once the screws and bolts are off the whole top slides off and just replace the chip by unclipping the electrical connection and replacing with a new chip. Second time I've had to do this in 8 years. This is obviously a problem that Maytag should really recall and take care of for us consumers. I know when we purchased, we paid a little more for the Maytag name: never again.
I had a problem with the refrigerator cooling down. I looked in the freezer and the freezer wasn't doing much better as frost had ended up covering all of the vents for the cold air to circulate through the entire system. I had an appliance repair man come out to fix the fridge as it had the same problem about a year and a half ago. I checked the part that he had fixed and figured it was the adaptive defrost controller. I ordered the part and found the controller in the upper back right hand corner of the fridge under the temp control/lights. First step was to slide out the temp control outer housing by finding the two holes in the back and pulling out evenly. There were about 5 screws that needed to be removed to access the adaptive defrost control under the inner housing. I detached the old control unit and put in a new one. The unit works perfectly now with no problems.This was very quick and easy and I saved a ton of money doing it myself instead of calling a repair man.
Followed online dianostic routine to find problem, eliminated possibilities until only problem was discovered, which was the defrost timer. Hardest part was all the dianostics and locating the defrost timer. The timer is somtimes located at the bottom of the frig. or in my model in the refrigerator compartment. Once I fould and removed the screws replacing the actual timer was simple and only took about 10 mins.
Removed a few screws and plugged in the new module and refrigerator started defrosting the coils again. It's working great now.
The control unit is located in the top of the refridgerator side. Remove the plastic housing. Keep track of where the screws came from. Two screws hold in the circuit board. The circuit board is on the right at the rear of the compartment. The old board has no cover. Plugged it in, put it back together and its working like a champ! Even the ice maker started working again. Not a hard job to do.
After unplugging the fridge, I removed the plastic cover covering the parts at the top of the refrigerator compartment by sliding it forward so that the tabs at the right and left rear of it slid out of the tight part and into the wide part releasing them. It was a little hard to budge, so I used a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the tabs while I was pulling on the cover. Then I unscrewed a screw at the back middle of the compartment using a nutdriver. Then I undid the two screws holding the Adaptive Defroster unit at the right rear top. After that, I undid the two screws at the front of the top with a nutdriver. After that, I unscrewed two screws, (with a phillips screwdriver) one behind each of the lights to release the top unit and let it tilt down far enough to reach the Adaptive Defrost unit at the right rear. I simply unplugged the unit and plugged in the new one. Then I retraced my steps screwing everything back in.
First unplug frig and remove the cover inside refrigerator at the top, by siding it forward slightly. Then remove the 5 screws holding the whole control unit to the top. After that remove the adaptive defrost board, located to the right rear of the unit. The wiring harness attached to board can be tricky to unclip. Now connect new defrost board and reconnect everything else. At this point I defrosted the freezer coils with a hair dryer and then plugged the frig back in. The frig took about 12 hrs to get back to normal. Thank you to everybody at parts select and all the customer who took the time to share there experiences.
Opened the refrigerator door and slid the control to the off position. Removed food from the freezer area and took back panel off to expose the evaporator. Took a hair dryer and thawed ice until completely clean. Removed top panel from refrigerator and took a nut driver and removed the control assembly and lowered it enough to remove the defrost assembly. replced it with the new defrost assy. and then reassembled everything and turned the controls back to normal setting.
First, thanks to James from Livermore, CA whose 10/31/07 posting made my job easier. Some parts of my write-up resembles his. I must give him credit for that.1. Remove the white plastic cover. This was the hardest part. Push up on the two tabs, one each side in the extreme back on the bottom of the cover. Spray silicon spray or WD-40 to the tabs facilitated it. Pull the cover while releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The right side was easier. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a flat screwdriver and I broke it. Tilt the right side of the cover up for moving it out.2. Remove the hex head screw at the middle back of the Back wall above the top shelf. 3. Remove the 2 small hex head screws that screw the temperature control strip to the top roof of the fridge.4. Unscrew the two light bulbs for easier access to the screws behind them..5. Take out the 2 Phillips screws behind the light sockets. The left one needs a long skinny driver.6. On the far back right is the ADP board sitting in a well. It took some effort to get the board out. It is shaped identical to the replacement one.7. Carefully and with some effort, pry the connector off of the board. Re-plug the connector to the new one. (Re-plugging was easier by taking the board out of the casing. Press on the middle tab and pull casing cover apart. Do this on a table so the board won’t fall and risk damage.)8. Replace everything back. Plug in the refrigerator. Nothing happened. Did not feel cold air coming out of the vent on the back of my palm.9. Left it plugged for about an hour. It started running. It got frosted up again.10. Unplug to defrost. Now I thought I replaced the wrong part. After defrosting, I plugged it again. Now the refrigerator is running as usual. It’s been 10 days. Both freezer and refrigerator are maintaining the desired temperatures.
Removed top section of refrig. 2 screws hold coverover thermostat. One screw in very back. Defrost printed circuit board is in right-hand top. It must bemade with cheap components. Maytag should have it corrected and give you a new one. For anybody's info it makes a lot of poping noise andI've also had to replace thermostat in ice maker and the water has stuck open one time to the icemaker, luckly I was home.
I called the repair folks when I first had the issue. I had frost build-up and the repairman said it would $400-500 to fix. He said I needed a new 'computer chip'. I left him leave and paid the $45 for the diagnosis.I turnedoff the fridge and freezer by moving the levers to off. I removed the top plastice housing with the nut screw and screwdriver in the refrigerator (side by side unit). - 6-7 total screws. I took off the flashing to expose the wires and Defrost element. It looked different since it was not in a white casing like the picture. I unhooked the prongs from the old adapter and plugged in the new adapter. Put the housing back in place and put thescrews back in. Not too difficult. Hardest part was getting the one screw back in on the left side near the lightbulb.
For the timer, I watched the handy instruction video on the website that was provided. Very easy to follow along. For the assembly, i tried to click on the instructions but nothing popped up, so i went online and searched for a video on youtube.com which helped.Very easy and convinent.
I had called a repairman and was told that the part alone would cost me $300 and, when he had finished diagnosing everything, he told me to buy a new refrigerator based on needing a "computer". I paid him his charge to come out and even considered buying a new fridge, but we couldn't find one that would fit the narrow space we have the way this model does. (We also have a funky seal that we will maybe replace sometime and I have since purchased the actuator pad.) I read all the posts before I decided we could do it. It was easy with all the instructions people included. I did have a bit of difficulty fitting the new plastic covered module into the space the old one was in, but with it tipped at an angle I was able to screw everything back in place. My only problem now is that the refrigerator is very cold (30-32) even with the temperature control near the bottom setting - but nothing in the fridge is frozen. My husband and I are not real handy and we always fuss at each other when we do this type of thing together, but we did okay because anytime we had a question I would pop back to the computer and read what others said about performing the repair. I would not have even attempted this without all the helpful repair stories. This is a great help - and I almost spent $1,200 on a cheap new fridge. Even though I paid the guy $75 and purchased this part with next day shipping, I figure I saved $1,000! It has been four years since I had this same part replaced under a maintenance contract and I was completely ignorant to how much they would have charged me at the time. If I get another four years out of this unit I will be happy. I also might just keep fixing it with the help of PartSelect! Thanks everyone for your help.
The hardest part of the job was getting the upper light cover panel off. That involved pushing the back of the panel up to unclip the hooks and then pulling the whole piece forward. Remove the five screws holding the upper light assembly to the roof of the fridge to drop it down. The Adaptive Defrost Enclosure is sitting in a plastic recess in the back of the light assembly. After replacing it (the wires just plug in the side of it) I reinstalled everything. It took about 24 hours to see a difference because the freezer was so iced up. The next time I think that I would manually defrost the freezer with a hair drier to speed things up.
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