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PartSelect Number PS2061226
This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
In refrigerator comparment removed control cover. Simply pull it forward and it drops down. Remove four screws holding controls to inside top of refrigerator. Remove two screws holding circuit board unit (adaptive defrost timer). Unplug electrical connector and removed the part. Put new part in by removing top cover and part so the electrical plug could be installed easier. Install top part cover and screwes back into contols panel. Reinstall tyhe control panel and cover.
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After emptying refrigerator section, removed plastic housing of temperature controls at top of refrig section. Broke one of plastic restraints as I couldn't see how housing had to be slide forward first. removal of house reveals another plastic housing which contain the Adaptive Defrost Controller (ADC).Removed three screws: two in front and one in rear of plastic housing, allowing housing to swing down from some wiring and ductwork in rear left corner. ADC was in rear right corner. Unplugged old ADC, plugged in new one [recommend you unplug refrigerator first unless you like some sparks!] and reversed process to re-install all housings. Defrosted coils in freezer section. Refrigerator now seems to be working fine.
The Jenn-Air Refrigerator is approximately 8 years old and this is the 2nd time I have replaced the defrost assembly board. The first time, it cost me $250 - but this time was much cheaper using partselect.com.The most difficult part of the repair was removing the overhead light assembly in the refrigerator compartment. The defrost assembly board is in the back right hand side of the refrigerator compartment -above the light assembly. First, you must remove all the screws which light assembly cover, then remove the screws in the back right corner which hold the defrost assembly board in place. Once the screws and housing were removed, I unplugged the old board from the wire harness and removed it from the refrigerator. I then plugged in the new board and put all screws back in to hold it in place. I then put the light assembly cover back in place. Total repair time was approximately 45 minutes because I had to figure out how to remove the light assembly. However, it was well worth it to save the money and know how to repair it in the future. Given the track record with this Jenn-Air, I'm sure it will have to be repaired again.Thanks to partselect.com for a great site and parts description.
Removed plastic cover removed 3 screws unit droped down unpluged defrost assy pluged new assy in all working good
Repair was a Piece of cake. Dropped control assembly (3 screws) replaced adaptive, and control assembly. Job over!
Verified the Freezer was coils behind the back inside panel were frozen. Read where this is typucally the ADC pcb in this model. Ordered the ADC through Part Select at a discount. About $65. Manually defrosted refridge for 2 days until part arrived. Replace ADC in the upper back right side of the frig. Turned power back on. Placed a thermometer in the Freezer and Fridge. Allowed a full day for temps to settle in -5F FZ, 38F FG. Restocked fridge. Caution - Drip pan is not big enough when manually defrosting. Suggestion - Always have a back up fridge in the garage or basement. JennAir has been the best looking and worst refridge I have ever had. Qty 2 ADC's and Qty 1 compressor start modules in the first 9 years of its life. I have $500 garage refridge that is 15 years and never had a single issue. Last Jenn Air for me. Wanna buy one?
After weeks of using a hair dryer to heat / melt the ice build up on the freezer coils, it was obvious that the adaptive defrost controil board was toast. After reading numerous tech articles on the internet, it was deemed that sometimes the defrost heat element could be an issue as well, so I decided to replace both just to be safe. It was a little difficult getting the heater element oput as the wires for this run between the plastic liner of the freezer compartment and the cooling coils and the foam block that keeps everything tight was frozen even though I used a hair dryer to warm it up and melt all the ice. All appears to be OK at this point and both the fridge and the freezer are working. I will keep my fingers crossed as the ice usually built up within a week or so. I am going to take the cover off the freezer area in a week or so, just to check and see if all is well.Many Thanks
After having to defrost the coils monothly about 4 times with a hairdryer, i decided to buy this part. Success so far!First you have to remove the top plastic panel which is difficult to figure out, there are clasps holding it towards the back, so make sure you get those taken care of. The you have to unscrew much of the top components as one whole unit. you don't have to completely remove and i didn't see how it could be done. You just need enough room to get over the top of it and to the back of the fridge. The adaptive defrost assembly is in the back right and you have to take it out by going over the top of this entire top fridge component (hence the parital removal of it.) You take it out of it's sqaure little box (it may be screwed in through the bottom of it's tray, so remove the screw first) then "Unclip" the wire harness. The mounting screw configuration didn't match on mine, nor did the screw themselves, so i just reclipped the new defrost control assembly into the harness, set it into the tray, and screwed everything back together. It's a little difficult the first time because parts don't remove as easily as you would think, but doing it again, which may be required, will be much easier.
Replaced the defrost timer assembly.I'm not handy at all and I was able to replace this part in about 1/2 hour.
I followed the video you provided. It was extremely helpful. It was actually easier than I expected after watching the video. The cover removal looked scary but the part is extremely flexible (flimsy). Removing the old part required removing the 2 hex head screws. After installing the new part, I had trouble getting the screws back in. After several failed attempts ( the screws kept falling out), I removed the part again and realized that the new part was not tapped to receive the screws. I installed it without the screws and it works just fine. Suggest you check to see if the holes in the two holes are tapped before you install it. It will save time and aggrevation.
The repair was very easy! The first part received was defective ( refrigarator did not turn on ) . I got a replacement really fast and the refrigerator is now working ! Great customer service!!!
Unplug the refrigerator before starting to do this repair. The biggest problem I had was getting the outer cover detached. I followed the video and written text but had difficulty getting the cover off. I did find that I needed to pull the cover forward and down from the front and line up the square opening in the cover with the mount tab and then slightly bow the cover (by pulling down at the rear) to get the cover to release from the mount. The opening in the cover is shaped like an L and the square attachment point is at the bottom of the L. The left side of the cover was more difficult to release than the right. Once I had the cover off removing the scale and the light panel was easy. I discovered that I really did not need to remove the philips screws that hold the panel. I only needed to looen them enough to slide the entire panel to the left and pull it down (maybe I missed that part in the video). Access to the ADT was easy and getting the connector released was easy - just apply downward presure on the connector while pulling it off. The connector is held in place by a catch along the top edge of the board connector. My original ADT was not in a housing and there was a paper wiring diagram stuffed in between the board and the side of the panel, which I had to remove to get the new unit to fit. The new ADT plugged in without a problem but the screws from the old unit did not bite into the new housing with much force. I don't think this will be a problem as the housing is captive in that area and shouldn't go anywhere. Putting everything back together took only a few minutes and again, getting the outer cover back on proved to be a bit of a challenge. Now with the temperature controls set to the mid-point both sides are maintaining temperature. It has only been 6 days since the repair so it will be awhile before I know if this really fixed the problem. The Partselect.com web site with the symptom list and the accompanying video made this repair a high confidence repair.
I followed the video on Part Select which covered everything in detail. The repair itself was unplug the old Adaptive Defrost Timer and plug in the new one. Reassemble and done. When removing the temperature area, just be careful of sliding it out. When reassembling, make sure the wires are out of the way of the temperature gears. Other than that, piece of cake. I also installed a new defrost heater coil.
The new part looked exactly like the old part which some said the old part had no cover. This new one did. As with some, it was not necessary to pry with a screw driver to remove the top shielding. It was only necessary to push backwards and it came down. The rest was just a matter of removing two screws holding the defrost/timer to the top, replace it (re-install cable), and screw it back to the top, replace top, and set the thermastat. Finished!
i put a defroster in the freezer first that was just a clamp and to unpluge to then that didnt work so i had to order another computer defroster and when i installed that it didnt work at first so i went back to the part i first put in and check ed it and the senor was not on. very good self instrution great help
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