2061226-1-S-Whirlpool-61005988-Adaptive Defrost Board
2061226-1-S-Whirlpool-61005988-Adaptive Defrost Board 2061226-2-S-Whirlpool-61005988-Adaptive Defrost Board 2061226-3-S-Whirlpool-61005988-Adaptive Defrost Board http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/51051.gif

Adaptive Defrost Board

PartSelect Number PS2061226

This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge too warm.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Noisy.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Compare At

    $103.20
  • You Save

    $17.20
  • Your Price

    $86.00
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 98 reviews What's this?
 

8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Adaptive Defrost Board
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Jason from Clarkston, MI

Bottom of freezer compartment was icing up/freezer was leaking water

UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE YOU START> First I removed the shroud covering the lights and controls in the top of the refrigerator side. This was the hardest part, actually. Their are two indentations on the back of the cover and it is really hard to pull that cover off. Anyhow, once you do that, their are two screws, one by each light bulb in the top of the fridge that need to be removed. Their are also three hex head screws that need to be removed, two in the front corners of the assembly, one in the center, back of the fridge. Take those out and the whole assembly drops down. In the back right had corner of the assembly is the adaptive defrost control. Unplug it and set it aside. Plug the new one in. Put everything back together and you are back in business.

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10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Adaptive Defrost Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: DAVID from PEABODY, MA

Freezer and fresh food sections too warm, with control settings at coolest.

Thanks to previously posted PartSelect stories, I had a good idea on how to proceed. This component, as others have suggested, is clearly a piece of junk. This is the third time it has been replaced, once under warranty, again in a service call for $160 and now by me, with a PartSelect unit for $52.
The circuit board, with integral relay, resides in the extreme upper right hand corner of the fresh food compartment.
Remove upper shelf.
Remove white plastic control cover through which the lights illuminate the compartment. Finger grips at both sides at rear. Slide forward about an inch to clear the tabs visible at the rear, then tilt down and off. The owners' manual describes this at "Changing the Light Bulbs". It also gets the lightbulb description wrong, but ..........
Now remove the hex head screw facing you at the rear center. Then get its two cousins which are vertically positioned to hold the front of this housing up into the roof. They're left and right, just rearwards of the ends of the control setting dial.
These three tapping screws which you now have in hand are about 1 1/4" long.
Next, there are two Phillips head screws, also into the roof, whice are just to the rear of the two light sockets. Removing these, and the left one is awkward, frees up the control totally except for the wiring harness, which restrains it at the rear.
No matter, just tilt the unit down so that the front lip is pointed down towards you.
The piece-o-crap board is at the right rear.
Pop off the connector, takes some force, and put in your new module.
Order another one now, you will need it.
The service tech who changed out my next-to-last one left a circuit diagram back there with the new control, like saying "I'll be back."

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10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Adaptive Defrost Board
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: James from Toluca Lake, CA

Refrigerator not cold - ice build up in freezer cabinet

Chronically faulty electronic board in upper right rear of refrigerator compartment - in Maytag and Jenn-Air. Unplug unit. Remove freezer food to ice chest. Remove baskets and shelves, ice hopper and rear lower panel to expose evaporater fins. Defrost with hair dryer and allow all moisture to dry. Then in refrigerator, remove top shelf food. Carefully remove the upper assembly cover by working the plastic down and slide forward to unhook from rear slide attachments - one on each side. This is the hard part of repair.

Then remove screws from rear wall and just behind the lamps to release the whole control assembly. In the rear right corner is the bad board. Unplug and replace with new board. Reassemble the fridge and freezer. Replug unit.

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6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Adaptive Defrost Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Cory from Birnamwood, WI

Fridge stopped cooling, freezer still cold... saved $250+

First I hired a repairman to fix it who charged $125 to defrost the cooling coils then said the defrost heater would need to be replaced for $125+labor. He had the wrong part and was going to charge me >3x the price it would have been from Partselect.com too. I figure I saved a minimum of $250 vs having him do the work then charge me yet again for the right part.

Should have just done this myself from the start and saved another $125. Information about the cause, how to test and what parts would be needed were all easy to find online once I actually searched.

Unplugged fridge.

Using diagrams from PartSelect.com and other information online anb defrosted coils with hair-dryer. (This requires removing two screws in back of freezer compartment using nut-driver to remove the panels covering coils... literally a two minute job to expose coils!)

Then found and tested defrost heater.
Defrost heater was fine. Per information online problem then had to be Adaptive Frost Control (ADA) circuit board.

In refrigerator compartment:
1) Removed top housing cover (covers lights, temp controls, etc.) This required removing a single screw (with nut-driver) attaching it to back and depressing two locking tabs near the back on either side. Slide it forward and down. The only tricky part of this repair is getting the locking tabs positioned correctly to get the plastic cover off. I did break the left one although it cover is still firmly in place in this case.)

2) Removed entire assembly from roof of fridge. involves loosening two large headed screws above lights and removing two hex-head screws with nut-driver above either side of temp controls. Next slide slightly to the right to disengage the two large-headed screws (or remove them completely... it seemed easier to just leave them in place.) Dropped front end of control assembly down.

3) Opened plastic box surrounding ADA and pried open locking tab holding it to wiring. Connected new board and set ADA assembly back in place.

4) Put everything back together.

Plugged fridge in and all was well. Exposed the coils again a few days later and they were not frosted up at all.

Total time to replace the ADA was about 20 minutes. Total time for everything including defrosting coils, testing, replacing parts, etc. was an hour max.

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6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Adaptive Defrost Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: sylvia from dawsonville, GA

Refrigerator would not cool but freezer worked fine

I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks

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