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PartSelect Number PS2061226
This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks
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I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit.The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.
Maytag wide by side refrigerators tend to eat these parts about once a year, and this is my third assy so the replacement went very fast. When we used the Maytag warranty they replaced this part about 6 times, after they exchanged the refrigerator. No major disassembly is required, drop the plastic after removing a few screws, plug in the assy, and you are good to go, no more frozen food in the refer. The only tricky part is getting the clips to release so you can slide the plastic cover forward, but after a while they break off and it is easier to remove.
Had a little trouble getting the plastic cover removed. Trick is to reach all the way to the back, put finger in hole behind the tab, and pull down and forward so it clears the little plastic locking nub behind the tab on the right.
Turned refrigerater off. We defrosted the freezer by taking the back panel off. We followed the directions that your Co. had from a gentleman from Livermore, Ca. It went well but not as easy as he made it sound. Worth the effort to avoid a service call. Thanks for the service.
Release tabs at right and left rear of cover and pull cover forward. Remove all hex-head screws. Release housing assym from screws in middle of assym. Defrost assym is at the back right. Unplug wire connector. Plug in new defrost assym, and set into place. Hook housing assym back onto screws. Replace all hex screws. Slide cover back into place. Done!
This was the second part we replaced. The first part was the Temperature Control Assy; which had been replaced several weeks earlier by a repairman, seemed to fix the problem for a few weeks and then the problem returned. Thinking the part might be bad we replaced it again with no luck. Based on the information from other repair stories with similar problems we tried the Defrost Assy, Adpative. We hadn't put all the covering parts back so replacing this part was relatively easy. At first we didn't think this part fixed the problem either, but after a few days of monitoring the temps in the refrigerator & freezer it seems to have corrected the problem. It has been several weeks and the temps are holding.The most difficult part of the repair is removing the cover plate to gain access to the parts. There are clips that have to be released, and thanks to another repair story we were able to get that done. Also, we accessed the data on our refrigerator from this site (from the parts lists and obtained the drawings) so we were able to identify each part. Otherwise the repairs were removing one part and replacing it with the new parts (screws and connectors).Since this site (unlike some of the others) had listed the Defrost Assy with additional model information we ordered our part from PartSelect as we didn't want to receive a part that wouldn't fit. The part was perfect and we have a working refrigerator FINALLY!
After reading many stories posted on your site, especially the one mentioning the impedance of the heating coil circuit (22 ohms and 240 kohms). I ordered the adaptive defrost assembly from your website and completely defrosted the whole frig and freezer. I removed the cover above the top shelf ( I broke a small piece of the plastic cover in the process inadvertently even though I was very careful). Then I removed the two screws near the two lights on the ceiling, one screw on the back wall, and two others that held the old adaptive defrost assembly in place. When I was installing the new one which came with a plastic two-piece-clapped-together cover, the two old screws that held the old assembly in place appeared to be redundant, since the new cover can be safely clapped in place. The easiest way to install the new assembly is to take the bare assembly out of the cover and connect it with the connector first, then put the cover back on it. Afterwards, I just put everything back in the revered order. One thing I do need to mention is that right after installing the assembly, no influx of cooling air was felt from the opening on the ceiling cover, it lasted for 6-8 hrs until everything became normal. In addition, the thermostat on the top cover needs to be adjusted for several times in the next a few days to reach the intended temperature. This can be monitored by placing a thermometer inside the frig/freezer. Your website is invaluable for people like me who like to repair things to save money and to enjoy the process of fixing things.
Found a similar problem listed on your website and did the exact same procedure. Replaced the board with the new module just as described.Waiting to see if it works. Won't know for a while since it takes a month or so to ice up. Will inspect the coils then to see if auto defrost is working.Old board had a chattering sound from the relay. Haven't heard that with the new one as of yet.I feel pretty confidant it's OK now.
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed top plastic cover from inside the fridge.Removed 5 little screws with phillips screwdriver and nutdriver . Unplugged the old defrost assembly and plugged in new one.replaced screws and snapped cover back on. It took about 15 minutes and the fridge works fine.
This was second time I had to replace the Defrost Board. Last time was very difficult due to not understanding the instructions. This time I watched the video a couple of times, then went thru the steps in the video. It was much easier this time.
Bought it used. Worked fine for 32 days, past the warranty, then started getting too warm. Called a tech who didn't find anything. Checked here and saw 3 parts that might be at fault: refrig. temp control, freezer temp control, defrost timer. The time was most expensive so I started with refrig. temp control. Didn't help. Bought freezer temp control. Didn't help. Discovered that condenser fan motor was sticking. Replaced it but didn't solve problem. Finally bought defrost timer. That fixed it. Works fine now. Replacing parts was easy, requiring only simple tools.
Called a repair man and he explained that someone had failed to properly close the freezer door, which caused the coil to freeze up...Charged me 75.00 for a service call, thawed out the coil and left... The next 2 times this occurred, I thawed out the coil and then determined that there must be something else. Did a web search and determined that it must be the defrost timer. Ordered the part, watched the excellent installation video and cured the problem.... The whole deal was terrific... Thanks.
I followed the excellent video instructions to replace the defrost timer. It went faster and easier than I would have expected. In just less than a half-hour the job was done. I saved a ton of money doing it myself.
Repair is very simple however the design of the cover that you have to remove is not very user friendly, have to push in the tabs in the back and pull the cover at the same time, then remove 4 screws. Connecting the timer is a bit tricky, it helps to remember how it looks like before you disconnect the old one. It has been one week and the frige is working fine.
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