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PartSelect Number PS2044484
If you notice that your dryer will not start, shuts off too soon or provides too much heat, you may need to replace your high limit thermostat. This high limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element. The high limit thermostat is in the rear of the dryer behind the back panel. To complete this repair, you will need to remove the back panel of your dryer. Be sure to disconnect power to the dryer before beginning this repair.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Removed lint screen and holder frame. Unplugged the electrical cord and closed the gas valve in the line before it goes into the dryer.2. Removed two bolts at bottom front of machine and took off the bottom front panel.3. Removed three bolts from black plastic exit vent and took it out to give more room to access everything.4. removed two wires and screws on the limit thermostat. Did the reverse to place the new one.5. Removed wires (remembering placement), then holder screw. rotated the Gas Dryer Sensor counter clockwise to release the bottom tab so the sensor can be taken off the flame tube. Did the reverse to place the new one on.6. Removed the one screw on the gas/flame tube that holds the bracket and igniter inside the flame tube. Removed the wires fro the igniter (remember placement) Slid the whole assembly toward the back of the machine to get the tube off the gas valve then rotated the whole assembly counter-clocwise to release the tab on the left side of the bracket. This was a little tight and had to work with it a bit to get the tab out and slide the whole piece out of the flame tube.7. Once the tube and igniter were out i removed the scree that holds the igniter and replaced with the new one. Made sure no dust, etc. was in the piece.8. Did the reverse to place the tube/igniter back into the flame tube.9. Carefully and forcefully removed the wire connectors to the two coils. These were tough to get off. Removed the two screws that hold the bracket that holds the two coils in place. Slid the coils off the spindles remembering which one has the two wire connection and which one has the three wire connection and the way they went on. Replaced the old with the new. Placed the bracket onto the new coils and made sure the little bumps on the top are in the holes in the bracket. Tightened the screws to hold the coil bracket. Reattached the wire connectors to the coils making sure they go ALL the way back on. 10. Vaccumed everything I could to get lint, dust, etc. out. 11.Replaced the black vent plastic.12 Made sure the exit vent on the back was not crimped or clogged. Checked the little flap door where the vent goes outside to make sure it opens and closes super easy to no air flow is restricted.13. For testing I left the bottom panel open. Make sure you closed the door, reconnect the plug and turn the gas valve back on. Hit the go button on autodry or timed dry. The door must be closed to create the closed circulation of the system so the fan sucks the flame into the tube otherwise the flame will not fire deep into the tube and will set off one fo the overheat sensors. After hitting the go button your drum will start to rotate, then a few seconds later you'll hear a click and your igniter will start to burn bright orange. Another click and the gas should flow and ignite. 14. This shows that you've fixed the ignition problem. I just replaced everything I thought that could be wrong in stead of hunting and trial and error. All the parts were about $137 so I thought it was worth making sure. 15. IMPORTANT: If during your test the flame turns off after a little while then turns back on only to turn off again, don't panic. This happened to me as well. I found that you need to run the dryer with wet clothes in the dryer. The wetness in the clothes will keep the autodry sensor from shutting off the dryer since there will be moisture in the exhaust. If it's on timed dry the wet clothes will cool the exhaust air and keep the overheat sensors from turning the heat off. So no heating of dry clothes to get out wrinkles. Just dry the wet clothes. This is all I did and it's been working great so far. Good Luck!
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Were these instructions helpful?
I did reseach online and the first thing they told you to check were the thermostats and the thermal fuse, so I ordered those parts. I took the dryer apart, found the parts and tested them with my ohm meter and they all tested fine. I should have tested them initially before ordering them. Then I did more research and found out that if the thermostats are fine, it is more than likely the Coil Valves and there are 2. I also learned that you can test these parts and they may test correctly, but they will test differently when they are hot versues cold. I seemed confident that these would do the trick. I ordered the parts and replaced them, which was very easy to do. Then I put the dryer back together, started it and it worked perfectly!!!PartSelect website was very help and I received the parts very quickly. I'm returning the parts that were not used for a refund.
Pulled the front panel off and cleaned out all the lint out that had gotten past the lint screen. Pulled off the back panel for same. Removed lint roughly the size of an adult badger. Did not solve problem. Could see that the heating element was glowing red but gas was not igniting, very tempted to put out my cigarette. Between the assembly gas valves impotent clicking and the free trouble shooting info off the net... I guessed it was the gas valve assembly. Got the part from Part Select and replaced it. (part arrived much quicker than I thought it would too) Dryer now works and while I didn't need the thermostat, it was cheap enough that I will just keep it as it is the next likely part to take a hike.
... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!
I first unpluged the dryer then removed the bottom cover (two screws) then found the correct socket and removed the components and replaced them wire for wire. PLugged it back in and strated the dryer and watched the process. Unforunately it cycled twice and then stopped working. I went to a local appliance store to buy another high limit fuse because I thought it blew and happened to talk about the situation to a man behind the counter and he insisted it was the gas coils so I bought some and replaced them and its working fine now without replacing any more components. Im not a aapliance repair man but mechanically inclined but experience does pay. Hey, everything is easy if you know how...
Removed the top and opened the front cover had to use a 1/4 inch socket with a 5/16 and a short adapter to remove the sensors. The push on wire clips were very hard to remove so I used a pick to open them a little. Before replacing the wires I sqeezed them back to normal so they would not vibrate off. Not much space to work if you don't have the tools but it could be done by removing the gas tube and the heat tube but it will take more time. We have put perhaps 30 loads into the dryer this week and its working better than ever. The Thermostat limit switch was blown used a voltmeter to test for continuity. and I accidentally broke the ends of the high limit switch off while testing due to the tight clips. Maytag sure cant make them like they used to but glad I found a place to get the parts which are easy to replace and the instructions are great to figure out the problem.
I removed the two spade connectors and then removed the two 1/4" hex screws. I then simply removed the defective unit and replaced it with the new on and re-installed the two screws and wires.This was not the problem though.I turned out to be the solenoids on the gas valve.
First I unpluged the dryer, removed the two screws from the bottom access panel. I used a small socket to remove the screws securing the limit stat to the burner chamber, nut driver was too long. I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.
Removed two screws on lower front dryer panel with 5/16" socket and wrench. Removed three screws and plastic filter dryer screen vent with 1/4" socket allowing easy access to upper limit thermostat switch located on side of igniter flame assembly tunnel. Removed two screws attaching limit switch and disconnected two wires. Replaced with new limit switch and reconnected wires. Reassembled dryer. Works fine. Drying time for regular items such as towels is now less than 1 hour.
as i took a part out I put back wire for wire part for part took my time no distractions great to have this service would use again and tell a friend or friends great stuff saved $$$$$$$ thank you for being their love this internet
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