2041343-1-S-Whirlpool-40113801-High Limit Thermal Fuse
2041343-1-S-Whirlpool-40113801-High Limit Thermal Fuse 2041343-2-S-Whirlpool-40113801-High Limit Thermal Fuse 2041343-3-S-Whirlpool-40113801-High Limit Thermal Fuse http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/58908.gif

High Limit Thermal Fuse

PartSelect Number PS2041343

Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Compare At

    $6.13
  • You Save

    $1.02
  • Your Price

    $5.11
In Stock
Order within the next 12 hrs and your part ships today!
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Limit Thermostat

Part Number 2177455

This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 225 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 185 degrees Fahrenheit - the differential of 40 degrees.

$24.84
Special Order

Fuse Kit

Part Number 2174577

This fuse kit comes with a thermal fuse, a high limit thermostat, two lead wires, & four mounting screws.

Order within the next 12 hrs and your part ships today!
$40.25
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 50 reviews What's this?
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95 of 125 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Mark from West Chester, PA

Timer won't advance for auto-sensing cycles. Low heat.

First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!

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57 of 66 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Anthony from Bethlehem, PA

Dryer stopped heating up.

Replaced heating element, which had a fuse and high limit thermostat attached to it. Remove 2 screws to pull the bottom cover plate on the dryer, remove 3 screws to pull the blower inlet shroud and then remove 2 screws to pull the heating element off the air inlet duct at the back of the dryer. Remove 2 screws each for the thermostat and fuse. Installed the new devices back onto the new heating element. Power leads to the element are long so you can pull the whole thing out very easily. Couldn't have been any easier to fix.

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42 of 57 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Bryant from Round Lake, IL

Dryer would heat up initially, but then turn off and not restart

I did reseach online and the first thing they told you to check were the thermostats and the thermal fuse, so I ordered those parts. I took the dryer apart, found the parts and tested them with my ohm meter and they all tested fine. I should have tested them initially before ordering them. Then I did more research and found out that if the thermostats are fine, it is more than likely the Coil Valves and there are 2. I also learned that you can test these parts and they may test correctly, but they will test differently when they are hot versues cold. I seemed confident that these would do the trick. I ordered the parts and replaced them, which was very easy to do. Then I put the dryer back together, started it and it worked perfectly!!!

PartSelect website was very help and I received the parts very quickly. I'm returning the parts that were not used for a refund.

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17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Eric from Yorba Linda, CA

Dryer stopped working with no power detected

Based on my research, the thermal fuse could be blown out so I tested it and it was. I've replaced the thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. bam! it's up and running again. I'd highly recommended ordering your parts thru PartSeclect..the order was easy and shipping is quick. Thanks

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13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: John from Hoquiam, WA

Dryer would not put out any heat

This was the second time we lost the High Limit Thermal Fuse. My wife dried some new towels and the lint filter completely plugged before the cycle was done and popped the high limit fuse. I went throught this before and paid a fortune for a repairman and ended up installing the thermal fuse myself so I did it myself and saved about $100. I also ordered an element kit so I have it. I will just swap out element units if there is a next time. Maybe the next time we buy new towels. It only takes few minutes to remove the front lower panel and unplug two wires, remove two screws and the element assembly with both the fuse and the thermostat are out. It is easy to replace the fuse with the element assembly in your hands and in good light.

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