Multi-Rib Belt

took bottom panel off of dryer which is held on by two screws,turned on dryer and could plainly see that the back left drum roller was just flopping around ordered a new one and also a new drum belt as the one that was on there was frayed. parts came in a few days later job took less than one hour very easy job for anyone with basic skills on using tools,wife is very happy

remove front panel ,remove top panel,lift drum,slide new belt on to drive motor then idler pulley then put belt over the drum.reassemble in reverse , front panel first

The first time, I inserted the belt the wrong way. The drum turns a little bit then stops. The manufacturer does not give any instructions or drawings on their website on that particular model, only drawing of parts.I called the technical support department and they told me to call different telephone numbers in my area and repair technicians. Still no schematic and instructions.
The solution: I took the broken belt, put around the drum, measured it, the remaining slack, did some trial and error around the motor axle and the pulley.
Placed a 2 X 4 piece of wood to hold the tension of the pulley. With the belt around the drum, carefully inserted the drum downward. placed the belt starting from the left side of the drum to the bottom of the motor axle, around it then to the bottom of the tension pulley, then towards the right side of the drum.
Lift the drum to its proper position, horizontal. Remove the piece of wood. Turn the drum manually so it moves freely. check the belt moving around the axle and the pulley. Install back the panels and screws tightened. Test and observe a few drying runs.

This would be an easy job, if I were to do it again.

I needed to download a manual only to get ACCESS to the machine. Removing the outside lag bolts did NOT provide access.

They had hidden clips that were ENTIRELY invisible from the outside. I believe this was done deliberately, to prevent those who don't know the specifics about this machine from gaining access.

It's an easy job, once you know the idiosyncracies of the construction of the machine. It's a major pain in the ass if you don't, even if you are used to replacing belts in other dryers.

Having done it once, the next time I could do it in under 20% of the time it took me the first time.

I found a shrieking noise repair on this website, followed their instructions (winging it a bit) and was able to fix my dryer for the price of those parts - excellent!!! As the other instructions said, mark EVERY wire.
I have additional instructions - MARK EVERY SCREW you remove. I had 4 extras when I was finished and now I'm a bit worried about where they belong :)

remove the housing under the dryer door. take out the lint trap. I took the whole bottom off the dryer to easily get to the tensioner pully. I then loosened the tub and slid off the old belt and replaced it.

Took off the two lower front screws, Then the screws to take off the door and frame. Then the lint trap. Finally took out the drum. BOY WAS MY DRYER DIRTY WITH LINT! Vacumned it all out and washed the filter and filter housing with soap. Found out that I needed tension wheel also. Ordered that. Replaced the wheel, that was the hardest part. Need to take off this part like a "spring washer" and put it back on with the new wheel in place. Then placed the belt on the drum, belt on the tension, screwed the drum holder frame on, screwed the door frame on, screwed the lower panel on and it works great. By the way I am a female and if I can do it anyone can.

I took the bottom on the dryer off, then took the assembly that held in the drum. Then I took the drum out. replaced the bad parts, and put everything back together.
I turned on the dryer, and presto.. no more grinding noise.

Lifted the top of the dryer removed two screws and pulled the front of the Dryer forward. Slipped the new belt over the drum and over the motor pulley.
Pushed the front back in place and snapped the top of the dryer down and the job was complete.
I thought the part would take three days to get here.
It was delivered the day after I ordered it.

The repair went just like the video that PartSelect has. I was much easier than I thought it would be. Once I got the Dryer apart I cleaned it and then installed the new parts with no issues. However I did find that the Idler arm and pulley need changing so I have ordered them. I have reassembled the Dryer and it went back together as easy as it came apart. I recommend watching the video first if you have never done this. Good Luck

Took apart front of dryer, took out tub, replaced pully wheel, put tub back in with new belt, and put front back on. I would recomend replacing wear pads when doing this type of job.

Not my first dryer repair. This is an easy fix, even for a "novice." Just follow the directions that can be found at several websites, and pay attention. Easy to do, and will save you $$$. This is also a good time to clean excess lint out of the dryer! You should also inspect the felt that the drum rotates on. (And sweep underneath the appliance. Who wants to do that on a regular basis!!??)

removed front of dryer, replaced old pully and put on new belt.

I pulled the heating element loose and layed it on the floor so I could see if the elements were heating. This required totally disassembling the dryer from the front including removing the drum. Then I bypassed the door switch so the dryer would run disassembled. Then plugged in the dryer and turned it on. Heating coils did not glow... Hmmmm. Put a meter across the two thermal switches mounted on the element assembly to find one of them was open. Ordered switch from PARTSELECT; ordered a belt too while I had it apart. Parts came very fast and reassembled with new parts. WORKS LIKE A CHAMP!!! Thanks Partselect!

USED SPACKLE KNIFE TO POP CLIPS ON TOP OF DRYER. RAISED LID OF DRYER TO EXPOSE BELT.

NEXT USED NUT DRIVER TO DISASSEMBLY SCREWS FROM FRONT DOOR AND THEN BASE ( BAG THEM. LABELED BAG AND MARKED INSIDE OF DRYER WITH CORRESPONDING NUMBER TO MATCH HARDWARE)

DISASSEMBLED DRYER DOOR LATCH SWITCH AND MARKED RED + AND WHITE NO MARKING. ( MIDDLE CONNECTION NOT USED)

REMOVED DRYER CLEAN OUT SCREEN AND THEN REMOVED DRYER FACE

NEXT REMOVED DRYER BLOWER COVER NO HARDWARE ( Just lift upwards see side clips)

OPENED UP SIDE OF DRYER TO GAIN MORE ACCESS (SPREAD APART MANUALLY)

Removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker

USed 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer

next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring.

Next step was to removed drum rollers... this required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position.

Next replaced belt and reassembled.

Project was a success and runs like new.... Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without Maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130.

My cost $65 + $15 Tool (Retaining Ring Pliers)

$80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on Parts)

$80 versus $356 -- Thanks Parts Select for saving me $276 during the Christmas holiday.