Multi-Rib Belt

remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . done
Safety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now

Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.
Tested the dryer no more noise.

Thanks

I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...

Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.

It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....

Downloaded an Amana service manual and followed directions. Easy...and was able to clean out built up lint not to mention a couple of dollars in change!

Identified Problem by using silicone spray on drum bearing wheels, when noise stopped I knew bearings were bad. Removed drum per PartsSelect diagram of my dryer then removed wheels, and bearing shaft.
Will need a snap ring pliers with small holes to remove snap rings. I ordered new shafts, washers,snap rings,drum wheels, and belt. Installing belt use two hands and make sure tension bar is correct review belt locations before repair. Also cleaned and vacumned inside of Dryer. Remember to unplug, I did not and when door was removed I caused a short that blew fuse, lucky that I did not damage dryer in process. Working well now with no nose.

Unscrew front, detach electrical, tilt back top, remove drum. remove retaining ring and glide, replace ring and guide remove old felt seal, adhere new felt seal with contact cement, remove what was left of felt pads, replace pads and new glides, reassemble.

Unplug the dryer. Remove bottom panel by removing the two retaining nuts. Unplug the motor cable connections. Remove the blower unit. Remove the two screws holding the motor down. Release the belt by slipping it off the tension pulley. Slide the motor out carefully.

I had to replace the idler pulley shaft. The pulley had scored the shaft and was digging into it causing the excessive noise. Reinstall the new shaft and pulley. You will need to remove and re-attach the retaining ring.

I took the opportunity to then blow out the motor unit. It was filled with lint. I then decided to replace the original belt.

You need to unscrew the rear retaining clips and use a putty knife or (I ended up using a small tire tool) to lift and separate the top. I then slide the belt up to the front of the drum. I unscrewed each bolt from the drum and removed the belt at each corner. By doing this it kept the drum aligned with the unit. Then just reverse the process to install the new belt.

Re-install the parts in order of removal. Done. Total repair took about 45 minutes. Would have been quicker except I forgot to re-attach the power clip to the motor and had to remove the unit again.

Noise is gone, dryer runs like a champ, hopefully for another ten years.

as described in video. Very well done. Thank you

Make a long story short, dryer was on fire from lint in the bottom of it. burned up some wires & other parts. it was easy to repair the wire & replace the parts every thing worked out fine. REMEMBER TO CLEAN OUT THE LINT IN THE BOTTOM OF THR DRYER not only the lint filter or this could happen to you.

Super Simple. Remove lower front panel (2 screws). Remove front door & panel (2 more screws). Disconnect push on wire connectors after marking each side with a sharpie pen (for easy re-assembly). Top hinges up towards the rear and rests against the wall. Lift out the drum. Remove snap rings on the shaft that holds the guide wheels at the rear of the drum. remove wheels. One of the shaft pieces that holds the wheel was shot so I replaced that (2 screws). Put new wheels back on. This was actually fairly hard. the new shaft seemed to have a larger receiving end. with hammer and lube I eventually got it on. Re-assemble in reverse order. took about 20 minutes. the only special tool was snap ring pliers (could easily get snap rings off with a flat screw driver.

Unplug the dryer.Removed top. Then removed wires from switch to door (make sure you mark them). Removed front door and bottom panel. Removed lint trap assembly.All bolt heads were 5/16 and used putty knife for top 2 spring clips. Removed belt (remember how it goes) and took out drum. Next clean and vacuum everything really good. Have a good set of retaining ring pliers, these are used to remove the 2 drum support rollers and idler pulley. Drum support rollers have FRONT marked on them, make sure they are facing out. Always make sure retaining rings are locked in there grooves. Next put new belt on drum and place drum back in dryer. Next put put belt on motor pulley and push up on idler puller to run belt under it (this is probably the hardest part). Now just go in reverse order in putting everything back on. Always make sure to double check everthing like the belt make sure its on right and not twisted and check drum make sure its on support rollers and is set right when lint trap assembly is installed and wires reconnected. When cleaning i used a vacuum and an air compressor to blow out all the debris from the motor and other areas.

Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.

My problem was that my AMANA dryer would not heat. The site suggested testing the two thermostats so I opened the dryer but didn’t follow the instructions in the video tutorial on the site since my AMANA is different. I used a nut driver and needle-nosed pliers for the whole job. Here’s what I did:

1. Unplugged the dryer.

2. Disconnected the exhaust pipe at the dryer.

3. Pulled dryer away from back wall about two feet.

4. Removed the two bottom panel screws (floor level) and removed panel.

5. Removed the two door panel screws and removed door panel by pulling out at the bottom until the two spring clips released from the top panel.

6. Noted the colors of the wires going to the door switch and removed (green, black and white from left to right).

7. Noted the colors of the wires going to the lamp and removed (bottom - black and top - red.)

8. Removed the two top panel screws, lifted up the top panel and leaned it against a support.

9. Removed the four bulkhead screws and carefully lifted up and removed the bulkhead being sure to support the drum. Took note of the belt path around the motor and idler pulleys.

10. Reached under the drum and took the belt off the idler pulley and motor drive pulley.

11. Used the belt to lift and remove the drum through the front opening.

I noticed that the internal vent pipe had become disconnected (which probably caused internal overheating) so I fixed that.

I then removed the wires to the thermostats and tested both for continuity. The limit thermostat was bad. I also saw that the belt was becoming cracked. I ordered a new limit thermostat and belt.

Installation of the new parts was a snap. I removed the old thermostat with the nut driver and replaced with the new one and pushed the wire connectors back on. Replacing the belt was a little trickier but not a problem. (Be sure to route the new belt correctly as noted on Step 9 and place ribbed surface next to drum.)

I closed up the dryer by reversing the opening steps.

Leaned machine back and put blocking under machine to elevate. Removed two screws from front of bottom panel. Lift panel out and set aside. Next remove two bottom screws from door frame. Pull bottom of frame out and up to release. Remove wire clips from door light and switch. Set door frame aside. Inside drum, take three phillips head screws out, that hold filter frame in, remove filter frame. Next remove four front screws on drum alignment face plate. Set aside. Grasp drum and pull forward, off back guide rollers. Drum will drop down a little, reach in around drum and slide belt off. Remember to look in under drum to see proper placement of belt aroun motor shaft and idler pulley. Replace new belt around drum with ribs against drum. Route belt around motor shaft pulley, pull idler pulley toward motor and place belt around pulley smooth top runs against pulley. Reinstall everything you removed. Connect wires to door.

I began by disassembling the dryer to diagnose the problem. I discovered the belt had been riding on a section of a broken idler pulley as well as wearing a groove into the idler pulley bracket. I removed the broken parts and went to the Internet for replacement parts. Three days later the parts arrived and I began reassembly. I found it a little difficult to replace the drum with the belt in position but found it much easier to recruit some assistance during this phase. Another factor with the difficulty was that I hadn't paid real close attention to the webbing direction of the belt around the pulley and there were no diagrams depicting the proper direction of the new belt. I did figure it out relatively quickly but would advise paying very close attention to parts positioning during disassembly.