2041323-1-S-Whirlpool-40111201-Multi-Rib Belt
2041323-1-S-Whirlpool-40111201-Multi-Rib Belt 2041323-2-S-Whirlpool-40111201-Multi-Rib Belt 2041323-3-S-Whirlpool-40111201-Multi-Rib Belt http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/58910.gif

Multi-Rib Belt

PartSelect Number PS2041323

At 93-3/8" in length, this flat dryer drum belt has 5 ridges and is 3/8" wide.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not tumble.
  • Noisy.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Compare At

    $17.52
  • You Save

    $2.92
  • Your Price

    $14.60
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 93 reviews What's this?
 

18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Dann from Claremont, CA

Drum not spinning

First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

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15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Multi-Rib Belt
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Garrett from Racine, WI

Original belt finally gave way.....(15yrs old)

Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

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13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Brian from Yucaipa, CA

Screeching sound coming from back of the dryer.

First removed the bottom access panel, then the then pried the top lid open. Then, I could get to the four screws holding the front of the drum in place. Once that was removed, reached underneath drum and disconnected belt from tensioner pulley and motor. Removed the drum and discovered the problem. One of the two drum rollers had completely disintergrated from the shaft, actually "melting" off of its roller shaft. Removed both of the rollers and shafts by putting a flathead screwdriver on the slot of the shaft, and at the same time holding the locknut behind the bracket with a box wrench. I replaced both shafts and rollers and reused the same washers and snaprings. I used a screwdriver and a vice to remove the snap rings off of the old shafts. The best bet is to use a pair of snap ring pliers, which I didn't have. I used some white silicone grease to lube the new rollers up, reinstalled them and replaced the belt. You MUST route the belt around the drum before you install, then connect the belt to the motor underneath and wrap it around the tensioner. While I had everything opened up, I shop-vac"d the inside of my dryer(filthy). I did this before putting anything back together. Also, when re-installing the front dryer panel, make sure the motor inlet and the lint outlet tube form an airtight seal. All in all, this was a fairly strightforward job. The dryer now works great and is as quiet as a mouse.

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13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Robyn from Pullallup, WA

Screaming noise and drum not turning

Removed top, remove front panel, removed drum assembly brace, removed drum and belt . The belt and rotor were shot. I replaced both drum support rollers since i was there. Then replaced the motor and Idler lever and pulley, the put the belt on and put everything back. This unit will last a while longer and the grand total including next day air 175.00. I tried to just by the motor locally but for 242.00 I got every thing listed above.
Thanks

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11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: John from Derry, NH

Idler wheel was making a screeching noise

I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!

From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!

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