0 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Level of DifficultyEasy
Time to do repair:More than 2 hours
ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
CustomerRaymond from Greenville NC
Screeching dryer and odor
USED SPACKLE KNIFE TO POP CLIPS ON TOP OF DRYER. RAISED LID OF DRYER TO EXPOSE BELT.
NEXT USED NUT DRIVER TO DISASSEMBLY SCREWS FROM FRONT DOOR AND THEN BASE ( BAG THEM. LABELED BAG AND MARKED INSIDE OF DRYER WITH CORRESPONDING NUMBER TO MATCH HARDWARE)
DISASSEMBLED DRYER DOOR LATCH SWITCH AND MARKED RED + AND WHITE NO MARKING. ( MIDDLE CONNECTION NOT USED)
REMOVED DRYER CLEAN OUT SCREEN AND THEN REMOVED DRYER FACE
NEXT REMOVED DRYER BLOWER COVER NO HARDWARE ( Just lift upwards see side clips)
OPENED UP SIDE OF DRYER TO GAIN MORE ACCESS (SPREAD APART MANUALLY)
Removed belt and marked where belt was on tumbler postion with permanent marker
USed 2 car hold down cords to hold drum in place with back of dryer
next removed belt from idler (note to make a drawing so that you know how to wrap this around the idler otherwise the belt will appear to be too large. Remember to reconnect spring.
Next step was to removed drum rollers... this required a retaining ring pliers cost about $15. I replaced the snap retaining rings. This was easy but requires that you pull the drum forward about 4 inches to position.
Next replaced belt and reassembled.
Project was a success and runs like new.... Saved me $129 service call plus $65 parts without Maytag mark-up plus additional labor for the job $130.
My cost $65 + $15 Tool (Retaining Ring Pliers)
$80 versus $259 + ( $65 *50%)ark up on Parts)
$80 versus $356 -- Thanks Parts Select for saving me $276 during the Christmas holiday.
19 of 603 people found this instruction helpful
Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult
Time to do repair:1- 2 hours
ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
CustomerDan from Newfield NY
Dryer wouldn't rotate the drum.
Removed the screws holding the bottom to the sides (but after taking it all apart, I think I could have done the repair by just taking the front off :-(.
Removed the screws holding the front to the sides. Noted the wiring (three wires go to the front door switch). Removed the wires from the switch (they are quick connects, so no tools necessary). Removed the front. Pull the drum out.
Disconnected the spring from the idler pulley lever. Removed the bolt and nut holding the idler pulley lever assembly to the bottom. (The old pulley had basically frozen in place which caused the belt to break). Put the new washers, wheel assembly and retaining ring on the new idler pulley lever. Bolted it back in place. Connected the spring. Put the new belt around the drum and slid the drum into place. Put the belt around the motor pulley and past the idler wheel (make sure it is on the correct side so this takes up the tension). Put the bottom screws back in. Connected the wires back up to the front. Put the front in place. (Make sure that the drum is properly seated in back so the front goes on and the drum will turn). Put the front screws back on.
43 of 1294 people found this instruction helpful
Level of DifficultyReally easy
Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins
ToolsNutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
Customerrussell from anamosa IA
Would run but would not heat
removed front cover and top took drum out remove heating unit replced limit switch and fuse reinstalled installed new idler put new belt around drum installed drum replaced glides put top back on and front cover . then replaced boosting heater witch is on the blower also cycling thermostat