11742241-1-M-Whirlpool-WP40004001-Upper/Lower Bearing
Part Location Diagram of WP40004001 Whirlpool Upper/Lower Bearing
See part 19 in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
11742241-1-S-Whirlpool-WP40004001-Upper/Lower Bearing 11742241-2-S-Whirlpool-WP40004001-Upper/Lower Bearing 11742241-3-S-Whirlpool-WP40004001-Upper/Lower Bearing Part Location Diagram of WP40004001 Whirlpool Upper/Lower Bearing
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Upper/Lower Bearing WP40004001

Rated by 5 customers 

A Bit Difficult 

More than 2 hours 

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$ 56.59
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PartSelect Number PS11742241
Manufacturer Part Number WP40004001
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Upper/Lower Bearing Specifications

Bearing only.
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Troubleshooting
This part works with the following products:
Washer, Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Amana, Crosley, Speed Queen, Maytag.
Part# WP40004001 replaces these:
AP6009098, 27148, 28944, 28944R, 40004001, R0605530
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 5 reviews. What's this?
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Water leak and excessive noise during spin cycle
Typical disassembly of a Maytag model SAV365ZAWW. Being an older model, I researched the Parts Select web site trying to identify the parts that others had found to need replace when solving the same problem. The web site pointed to a triple lip seal and hub kit as one of the parts that were needed. I e-mailed Customer service, asking questions about the suggested kit but never received a response, additionally the on-line expert feature was not functioning that day. I finally ordered the suggested parts. To Parts Select credit, the parts arrived the next day, even though I had selected the cheapest shipping option.

The delivered PS2177501 - Triple Lip Seal and Hub Kit, indicated on the web site as “Works with your model!“ , did not match the style of seal that I removed from the tub. I contacted Customer Service and explained my issue. The Customer Service representative suggested that I call Whirlpool directly to confirm the correct part, based upon the serial number, which I did. What I found out was the web site had an incorrect item list and I had received the wrong item. Parts Select arranged for the return of the part and assisted me in ordering the correct part. Once again, the parts arrived the next day.

The reassembly basically went well, following the provided instructions. This was the first repairs on what has otherwise been a very reliable machine. It now works and sounds like it is new.

Aside from the web site Parts Select handled the issue well. A word to the wise. If the parts diagram suggests that there are different series within a model, be sure to confirm that you’ve made the proper parts selection
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Other Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Hub Kit Upper/Lower Bearing Gasket Spin Belt
  • John from Valatie, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
30 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Maytag Washer Leaks, Noisy
1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!
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Other Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit Upper/Lower Bearing Gasket Seal
  • RAYMUND from WEST COVINA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
54 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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noise while spinning
had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great
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  • Bruce from Harrison, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud during spin cycle
Amana top load laundry machine
Model # NAV2230AWW
Parts used: PS2040734 and PS2177502

NOTE: the hub seal kit comes with the gasket foam and hub nut so do not order them separately as I did. PartSelect is great about accepting returns, but you might as well know ahead of time.

When you are starting this project out, there are a few things you should be prepared with. First, you will need an extension for your ratchet so that you can get at the bolt in the center of the agitator. Second, make sure you have some sealant or grease on hand for the installation of the hub nut.

Actual dis-assembly of the washer is not difficult. Simply remove the lower front panel followed by the main front panel and then separate the outer shell. Once all these parts are removed you can remove the agitator and all the various tub parts. The instructions that come with the kit are detailed enough to easily walk you through this part.

If you have diagnosed that the upper bearing/seal is the issue you will want to check the lower one as well. In my case the failure of the upper bearing resulted in a leak which caused the lower bearing to fail as well. Once you get to actual removal of the bearings you will be well served to have a bearing removal tool. If you do not have one, getting the lower bearing out will be quite difficult. If you have one, pulling the bearing out and replacing it is quite simple. Reassembly is even easier.

Plan on this repair taking several hours. It took me about six hours but that was due to the fact that I spent a lot of time cleaning each part thoroughly before reassembling the unit. I figured that since I had it all opened up I might as well. Had I not done this I think I could have gotten the whole thing done in about three hours.

After the repair the “jet engine” noise that was present during the spin cycle is gone and there is no leak. Given the cost of having a service person come to the house and make this repair I would definitely recommend that you do it yourself. PartSelect made this really easy. This is the third repair I have made to appliances using PartSelect and I have been fully satisfied with the parts and service each time.

James Erickson
Saint Paul, MN
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Other Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit Upper/Lower Bearing Gasket Seal
  • James from Saint Paul, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
30 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud grinding noise when the washer goes into the spin cycle.
I removed the lower front panel to diagnose the problem. After finding this, it would have been best to purchase the parts because the instructions on how to disassemble the unit came with the parts. Sad to say, I didn't tighten the main hub, at the bottom of the unit, good enough because it came loose and I had to go back and do a better job. Luckily I was able to fabricate the tool to tighten it better. Too bad the web page didn't recommend the right tools for the job. I would have purchased them.
All in all the job went well. I am pleased with the parts and prints available to complete the job. I could have used some instructions before removal of the parts, but where would be the adventure in that, right?

Rivman,
Milwaukee, WI.
12/2009
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Other Parts Used:
Triple Lip Seal and Bearing Kit Upper/Lower Bearing
  • Ricardo from Miwlaukee, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11742241
Manufacturer Part Number: WP40004001
Brand
Model Number
Description
Amana
AA3110
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Amana
AA3111
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Amana
AA3210
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Amana
AA3410
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Amana
AA4110
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Amana
AA4111
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Amana
AA4210
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Amana
AA4211
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Amana
AA4410
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Amana
AA4411
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Amana
AA5121
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Amana
AA5220
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Amana
AA5221
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Amana
AA5222
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Amana
AA5420
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Amana
AA5421
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Amana
AA6121
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA6221
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA6421
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA7131
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Amana
AA7231
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Amana
AA8431
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA9131
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA9231
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AA9431
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AWE852
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AWE931
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AWE951
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AWM190W
Washer - Top Loading
Amana
AWM190W2
Washer - Residential, Automatic
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Upper/Lower Bearing
$ 56.59
  In Stock
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