Drum Support Roller

Removed top and front of dryer. Released drive belt tension. Removed drum. Removed nut on belt tension idler lever/roller and replaced with new unit. Removed and replaced drum rollers. Reassembled dryer. Dried them clothes.

Followed the procedure from the video attached to the part in the web site. Everything went smooth. Did a major clean out of the cabinet, motor and vents before I put it all together.

Idler was the noise source. Drum support rollers were failing also. I almost spent $500.00 on a new dryer, glad I replaced the parts instead. Sounds and works like new. Watch the video,its very helpful. Thanks Parts Select. You should advertise your services on TV or radio. I am glad I found you.

Unplugged dryer, turned gas off, removed top, front and bottom front panels, lifted drum and supported, removed old roller, installed new roller, reinstalled panels.

Removed bottom front panel (two nuts)
Disconnected wiring to front door and removed
Remove the two nuts holding the top panel to the front and lifted top out of the way
Disconnected the drive belt from the motor
Lift the drum up and out of the machine
Replaced parts, cleaned cabinet and reassembled with new parts

Removed dryer vent and gas line. Turned off gas first. Removed front of dryer. Removed door to get to drum support. Removed drum and belt. Removed and replaced rear drum rollers. Removed and replaced front drum supports. Idler wheel was removed and replaced. Cleaned inside of unit and reinstalled the drum and belt.Reinstalled all of pieces removed. Reconnected power and started dryer. Sounded like a new dryer. Reconnected gas and put unit back in place.

I had to disassemble the whole thing and figure out what I needed. The new guide wheel and belt installed easy. The only hard part was trying to figure out how the dryer went back together.

I'm work in biomed/maintenance field, so I'm used to taking things apart. This was the 1st time I've tackled somthing like this. If your reasonably handy you could do this too. It only cost $30 to repair which was much less than buying a refurbed one.

It was a rather simple repair. First turn off power to machine as you will be working near live electrical connections. Remove screw on bottom front pannel then remove screws from top front pannel and remove screws that hold top down in front. Note that machine does not need to be removed from laundry closet as long as you can access the front of the machine. Remove lint tube at bottom then unhook wires from door swithes noting which ones are to be connected to which connectors. (write them down with location). remove front drum support screws (4) and then disconnect drum drive belt but extending spring roller bracket and lifting belt off motor drive pulley. At this point lift drum out of cabnet to give full access to the back of machine. Using snap ring pliers remove lock ring from front of roller shaft and slide roller off. Don't lose the spring washer. Clean all parts and vacuum inside of dryer to remove all access lint that has accumilated that could cause a fire. Remember safety first. When all is clean, lubricate roller shaft with lightweight lithium grease and reinstall roller with spring washer and snap ring. Reassemble dryer in reverse order of disassembly. It was a 30-40 minute project including cleaning time.

Took the front off the Dryer removed the drum. Replace drum rollers, Idler pulley wheel with bearing, and drum belt them replaced drum belt and reinstalled the drum. Put the front back on the dryer job complete.

I removed the top and the front of the dryer and I had done before, so that was not to bad, then I moved the drum forward just enough to get it off the rollers but did not remove it all the way in order to keep the belt in place. I removed the snap ring holding the wheels in place and put the new ones on. I put the dryer back together, unfortunately it did not fix the problem. I am now waiting on the idler lever arm to replace it. Hopefully, that will be the key!

Need two to pull the drum.Not heavy just hard to handle. Pulleys came out easy went back easy. Belt wanted to twist butfound that out quickly when it was running and making a noise.Took it off and put on the inside towardthe back of the dyer. No more noise. Now you have to put your hand on the dyer to see if it is running (sooooooo quite) Hope this helps.

i took the dryer apart to research the squeak. could tell the issue was coming from the idler pulley (the pulley the belt goes around. but since i was taking the whole thing apart i got two new rollers and slides and a spare retaining ring in case i broke the old one during install. in most cases i would purchase a new belt also, but mine still looked new.always unplug the dryer first. then use a flat balde screwdriver and put in between dryer top and dryer body a couple of inches from either side of the dryer, do one side at a time and slightly rotate screwdiver this will disconnect clips holding top of dryer on. once the clips are free lift dryer top like a car hood and let lid rest back against a wall behind dryer. draw a diagram of wire connections as you go this will make reassembly easy. disconnect the two wires attached to the door latch, then on the right side and left side of the dryer about two inches from the top there is a self tapping bolt that needs to be removed. once the bolts are out you will be able to lift and pullback on the front of the dryer to remove. three philips screws hold the lint trap assembly to the door assembly i took these out and vacuumed everywhere i could. there is a plastic assembly on the front of the heater unit, three small bolts will remove this. draw a diagram of the wires attached to the blower unit and disconnect. reach behind the blower unit release the tension on the belt by pulling the tensioner puilley forward, you will then with the other hand be able to remove the belt. with the belt removed, 4 bolts around the frame of the drum will enable you to remove the drum making all the repairs very easy. you will see both black rollers in the back bottom of the machine, remove with a set of snap ring pliers and replace the same way-make sure the side that says "front" is facing you when you install. the tensioner pulley with bearing is also replaced with a single snap ring, all three can be replaced in minutes. the slides are plastic pieces that are mounted on the inside of the front panel of the dryer that the drum rolls on. the old ones just slide out and the new ones slide in as long as the brackets are still good, no tools required. put everything together in reverse order, getting the drum back in and the belt back on my require an extra set of hands, but is not hard. dryer sounds new, saved myself hundredss of dollars, i'm sure and once i diagnosed the problem and had the parts, repairs were made inside of an hour.

Lay"d dryer on back took it apart 5/16 socket and a snap ring plier, orderd parts on a friday afternoon, parts came tuesday 9:30 AM. orderd all glides and rollers as long as it was apart, glad i did they were shot, real easy to repair.

took bottom panel off of dryer which is held on by two screws,turned on dryer and could plainly see that the back left drum roller was just flopping around ordered a new one and also a new drum belt as the one that was on there was frayed. parts came in a few days later job took less than one hour very easy job for anyone with basic skills on using tools,wife is very happy

I followed the instructions listed by others on the diassembly and reassembly. What I did discover was that in my case the squeaking noise was actaully coming from the drive idler, not the suspected drum support rollers.

If you order parts I would buy the idler roll also to insure the problem is corrected.