Flat Style Oven Igniter

Checked lower oven burner for a problem. Oven Ignitor looked like it was glowing and working properly but the gas valve would not open to let the gas flow to burner. I had read on a forum that just because the oven ignitor looks good does not mean it is creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve. So I took my chances and replaced the ignitor (because it was cheaper than the gas valve) and now the oven works like new.

I removed the cover over the flame diffuser, then removed the single nut holding the diffuser to the burner assembly. After removing the three screws from the igniter assembly I found I couldn't reach the connector for the igniter.
I removed the storage tray underneath and found a cover towards the rear of the oven with two screws. After removing this piece I could easily disconnect the igniter. It was a bit difficult replacing this shield as it had to fit between two other pieces on the side towards the front of the oven.
I slid the guard from the old igniter and put it on the new piece and just reversed the procedure. Relatively easy and saved me a bundle!

I opened the oven and cleared the racks;
removed the cover of the oven heating area;
took off the nut holding the blast shield on;
removed all the screws holding the drip tray on;
some were quite rusty and fell out in my hand;
removed the 2 screws holding the igniter in;
and the one scew that allows adjustment;
pulled out the igniter and noticed the old one was connected with wire nuts while the new one had a module plug;
cut off the module plug and stripped back the wires;
applied the wire nuts;
stuck the wires back in tjhe hole and screwed it all back together-done,
I must say the best part of the repair was googling the problem "amana oven ignition troubleshooting" and getting a helpful discussion of the problem and a solution and a link to the parts suply house, It couldn't have been simpler. I got the part 2 days after ordering it online.

Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.

1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.
2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.
3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.

Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.

4. Put everthing back in opposite order.

Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,
Remove bottom drawer from oven,
Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,
Disconnect old ignighter connection,
Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,
Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plate
Remove baffle plate,
Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,
Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order

Get to the ignitor:
Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.
Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.
Remove screws that hold the ignitor.
I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.

Unplugging the ignitor:
Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.
Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.

I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.

Broiler Igniter:

Disconnected stove from electricity

Removed the two screws that hold the broiler igniter assembly

Pulled asembly out to expose ceramic wire nuts

Removed ceramic wire nuts and save them

Removed broiler igniter assembly (broiler igniter & brolier mounting bracket are assembled together)

Loosened screws/nuts that hold the broiler igniter to the brolier mounting bracket

Remove old broiler igniter

Carefully inserted new brolier igniter into the broiler igniter bracket

Place the brolier igniter bracket into position. Make sure you look at the diagram provided so the position is correct. There is a "up" & "down" side to the broiler igniter

Tightened screws & bolts on broiler igniter bracket

Reconnected the ceramic wire nuts

Inserted two mounting screws and tightened

Finished.

Oven Igniter:

Removed oven door

Removed bottom oven drawer

Removed nut that holds heat shield/disperser in place

Removedheat shield/disperser

Removed all oven tray screws

removed oven burner

disconnected oven igniter

disconneted oven igniter assembly

inserted new oven igniter

reassembled

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Took bottom oven pan off accessed through oven storage drawer.Removed a few screws holding the igniter bracket,removed igniter from its holder(Be really,really careful doing this procedure because the igniter tip is verrrrry fragile,ask me how I know)Put it all back together and Voila,it works!This is so easy a job a caveman can do it! Good luck!

I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter and see what is going on there.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.

opened up the oven to locate the position of igniter

disconnected igniter and checked the continuity of the igniter to find that I had an open circuit

once I found out the igniter was no good I google for appliance parts and found parts select had the best prices that I could find. I called a couple local parts stores and there prices were definately inflated. I chose to go with parts.select.com
I receive the part in two days! I installed the new part within 15 minutes and turn on the oven to have it light almost instantly. I won much praise from my wife. Parts.select.com recieves my praise for ease and quickness of part delivery.

I pulled the ckt breaker, removed the oven drawer and disconnected the igniter. I opened the oven door and unscrewed the igniter holding bracket and removed the bracket and igniter. I broke the old igniter element when removing it from the bracket. When installing the new igniter in the holding bracket I broke the ceramic element. REALLY BE CAREFUL. Ordered a new igniter, very carefully installed it in the bracket, then rversed the removal process. It's not hard, you just have to be careful

I went ahead with the repair after reading how easy it was. I located the wires which were spliced, held together with wire nuts and wrapped in black insulation tape which did not feel right. Not realizing that these were ceramic heat resistant wire nuts and not wanting to cut the connector off the new ignitor I tried in vain to find a way to disconnect the original from it's source. In vain I searched for a way to reach where it plugged in. Looking for diagrams on line I came across one mention of: when you can't reach where to unplug the connector splice the wires using the heat resistant wire nuts. Encouraged I did that without the black insulation tape and then tried to slide the ignitor into the protective housing. The filament broke! I was devastated. Out $50.00 plus ego deflated I called PartSelect and bless their soul they sent me a new one under warranty. I didn't even have to ask for it. Their turn around time was the same as before and within two days not counting the weekend the oven lit like a Christmas candle. Thanks to all before me who shared their experience. Curious though why no one mentioned the splicing method.

PriceSelect was the best. Special thanks to them.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out the best way to get access to the part. Basically just had to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven then remove the shield that was directing the heat that comes off of the burner. Once I had access to that, I could see the ignitor. To get access to the plug in section, I had to take out the bottom drawer for pots and pans, then remove the piece above that to get access to the place that the ignitor plugs into. Unfortunately the wires were too short, but so were the ones that were on the current ignitor so I used the extension from the existing ignitor and cut off the plug of the new one to attach the extension. Once that was done, just reinstalled the ignitor and we reversed the process. The new one works incredibly well. Instead of waiting several minutes for the oven to start heating up, it heats up instantly. What a relief...much cheaper than buying a brand new stove. This one works great now!! Thank you parts select!!

After reading previous posts regarding this type of problem, I determined the very high likelyhood that the over ignitor needed to be replaced. Accessing the underneath of the oven compartment, I removed the metal shield covering the ignitor wires in order to unplug the ignitor. (Be sure to disconnect power cord first)
From inside of the oven compartment remove the flame spreader plate ( 1-screw) which gives access to the ignitor. Remove the three screws holding the ignitor bracket and pull the wire and plug through. That's it !!
Installation of the new ignitor is the reverse of the above proceedure.
Oven now functions normally again.
A very simple repair.