2031959-1-S-Whirlpool-312535-Drum Roller Shaft Washer
2031959-1-S-Whirlpool-312535-Drum Roller Shaft Washer 2031959-2-S-Whirlpool-312535-Drum Roller Shaft Washer http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/59071.gif

Drum Roller Shaft Washer

PartSelect Number PS2031959

Sold individually.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Compare At

    $5.87
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    $.98
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    $4.89
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

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Drum Support Roller Kit

Part Number 1570070

This drum support roller includes one drum roller and two bearings. Most dryers use two drum rollers, and is recommended to change both at once.

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Roller Shaft

Part Number 2347258

This roller shaft acts as the axel for the drum roller. Also known as drum roller axle.

$4.51
On Order

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 29 reviews What's this?
 

2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Charles from Daphne, AL

Squeaking noise

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Roy from Yardley, PA

A lot of screeching noise while tumbling

It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed.
I first found out how to open the front (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: A from Des Plaines, IL

Noisey bearing on support roller

Unplug unit from wall. Removed front cover,2 screws at base. Removed clip holding roller on shaft. Then realised front drum support would have to be removed,4 hex head screws. This allowed drum to be moved forward toward front to allow removal of roller an installing new one.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Roger from Indialantic, FL

Very loud squeaking/screeching when the dryer runs

repairmen said to buy a new dryer! or replace the motor! DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!

It was the spring washer that was rubbing against the metal that was causing the very loud noise. The fiber washer that is used on the shaft on both sides of the roller had worn though and allowed the metal-metal contact. The fiber washer wore out! The fiber washers are very cheap!!!! in comparison to a motor or new dryer!


The drum rollers that support the rotating drum eventually wear out the fiber washer.
UNPLUG THE DRYER, DISCONNECT THE VENT
Remove the two screws on the lower front of the dryer panel, probably after you have tilted the unit backward. Remove the front panel by tilting out the bottom as there are two clips at the top. AFTER DOCUMENTING the CONNECTIONS - Disconnect the wires from the switch which is mounted on the front panel.
Carefully put the dryer on its back - be careful of the dryer vent to avoid damaging your floor or dryer vent!
Carefully pull the dryer drum up out of the dryer - as this is done the belt which moves the drum will fall away from the drum. I suggest before you remove the drum to eyeball the way the belt is tensioned and wrapped around the motor driveshaft, guard and tensioner. This will be the most difficult part of reassembling the machine. Some visual understand, maybe even pictures will help you later to get it installed correctly back into proper position... and it is NOT intuitive!
Once the drum is removed, the rollers are accessible. Rotate each and find the squeaker!
I recommend you replace the fiber washer on both, even though only one may be squeaking at this point (the other will be close to being worn out as well!).
I will not document the replacement of these parts as the assembly seems well documented elsewhere. I suggest you remain using the spring washer if there - as the after factory replacements do not seem to provide spring washers.
I would also suggest replacing the dryer drum belt, it is worn, after this many years, and putting in a new one will keep the dryer running for many more years. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER - USE IT

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Glenn from Lewisport, KY

Dryer was sweaking and rumbling. Found tub support roller and shaft had failed bushing.

My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.

1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. Remove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel.
2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front.
3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped.
4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit.
5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner.
6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it.
7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones.
8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws.
9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws.
10. Re-connected power and tested operation.

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