Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?
Thank you for helping make our site better.
PartSelect Number PS2030883
This wheel has a deep D-shaped shaft receptacle. The spring clamp is not included with this part.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Lift top off. Removed front door. Removed blower wheel cover. Replaced blower wheel. Cleaned and put back togther. Needed circlip pliers to remove circlip retaining blower wheel.
Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.
Were these instructions helpful?
Unplugged Dryer; used screwdriver to push in and release two clips that hold top to front, tilted top back and removed two screws holding front to sides. Disconnected door switch and removed front .Reached in above motor to remove belt from around pulley and tensioner wheel, Pulled drum and belt out of machine.Removed approximately 10 screws around perimeter of blower housing and removed cover to access blower wheel. Removed outer lock ring from shaft and clamp from blower wheel hub, and removed blower wheel.Took out tensioner assembly.Disconnected wiring connector from motor.Removed three screws that held blower housing to bottom and removed retainer around rubber motor mount at pulley end of motor. Lifted out motor, blower housing and vent pipe as one unit. Removed 2nd outer lock ring from motor shaft.Rotated motor frame 45 degrees to free the rubber mount from the blower housing. Screwed new pulley onto new motor shaft and cleaned blower housing and vent pipe.Assembly is reverse of disassembly.Inspected and lightly greased the glides and inspected the idler wheels before reinstalling drum.Dryer works perfectly.Five to ten minutes also spent unscrewing and replacing timer knob and hinge pins on lid of matching washer Crosley cw22b5v.Very simple repair.
0. Opened packaged and receipt verified the parts against the drawing and packing slip. 1. Disconnected dryer from power source by pulling the plug.2. Removed the two screws (philips) on left and right side of the main frame to allow access to the blower assembly.3. (Optional)Verified power dead at the circuitry near the blower wheel assembly (former navy electrician- "check it dead").4. Removed the two screws at the base of the wheel cover using the screw driver (philips). The other screws on the assembly cover required the use of a 1/4" nut driver.5. Opened the assembly, and with a flathead, pried the Retaining Omega ring, and removed the damaged wheel (broken vanes and missing straight end of the center ring) and disposed.6. Inserted the new wheel on the shaft and was able to manually do it until about 3/4 of the way; to get it fully insert it, tap it with a mallet (tap the center of the wheel and avoid the blades). 7. Insert the retaining ring and operationally test it by manually rotating the tumbler and verifying the blower wheel moves freely and without noises.8. (Optional) Vacuumed the lint and dust from the wheel assembly, the filter and exhaust line (found several broken pieces of vanes there). Inspected heater assembly for obvious signs of damage9. Re-installed the assembly cover and the main cover back to the frame10. Reconnected the plug to outlet and tested by a starting a 10 minutes cycle- no noise and constant flow of air.11. Smoked a Motecristo Churchill as I grilled the steaks and pondered the greatness of the free market.,
Always begin repairs by unplugging the power cord from the power outlet! First, push in the 2 taps under the dryer top to lift it up and secure it at a 90 degree angle. Remove the door light switch from the retaining clip and let it hang to the outside of the dryer. After removing the 2 scews inside the top front, remove the front dryer cover. Next, remove the screws holding the blower cover and set it aside. Using a pair of plyers, remove the hose clip from the blower axle. Use a c-clip tool to remove the c-clip and pull out the blower wheel. Use a vacuum attachment hose to remove lint and other dirt from the wheel housing and dryer. Apply a light dish soap to the motor axle and slide on the new blower wheel. Replace the blower housing cover, front dryer cover, light switch, and close the dryer top, making sure to allign the pins and holes near the lid clips that secure the dryer top. Plug in the dryer power cord and you are set to go! Retire to your favorite lounge chair, grab the remote, and tell your wife that it is OK to "test" the dryer! However, do not attempt the last step until AFTER you have cleaned up all the mess you made while making the repair!
First we had to make the blower wheel hole bigger with a file and a dremmel tool due to our dryer being a little older model with a slightly larger shaft. Works great now, we saved ourselves about $400. and we love doing that with today's economy.Thanks PartSelect!!!
I pulled front off drier old wheel was easily removed because it was broke in half. New wheel fit tight and took a little effort to get new wheel installed. Installed retaining clamp to shaft and vacuumed out lint before putting front back on.
This is a very easy, no frills dryer to work on. Access to the blower by removing two screws holding the front panel. Blower fan held in place with a snap ring. Just recently replaced the drum rollers and shafts and the belt as well. It ran sweet for about a week and then an electric control on the motor went bad and it on;y can be replaced by buyig a new motor at $135.00. Some luck huh? Found a guy local selling a 8th month old Maytag of higher capacity and more bells and whistles for $150.00. It works great and my old Admiral uses many of the same parts so I'll have a supply of thermostats, rollers, etc., when the Maytag goes on the blink.
Removed old blower wheel and installrd new one. Had a little trouble installing the new blower as the bore was a little small. Had to drive the new one on the shaft. Now the dryer works fine. Many THANKS for the prompt shipment.
First unplugged dryer from outlet. Lightly pryed up on top of dryer to disengage retaining clips. Removed 2 screws holding sides and front panels together. Diconnected electrical connector from door switch. Remove clip retaining electrical harness of door switch from front panel. Removed front panel and placed to the side. Removed screws using a nut driver to retain the blower cover from blower wheel housing. Note there are 2 of the screws used to secure the blower cover to the base of the dryer, a phillip screw driver can be used for this. Also there is some sort of brace on the LH side of the blower cover that needs to be removed as well. Can be removed with either a phillips screw driver of nut driver. Remove retaining clip from motor shaft. Remove retainer clamp that had broke off from dryer duct work. Was able to us needle nose pliers for both. Removed old blower wheel and broken pieces. Vaccumed out lint build up with Shop Vac. Installed new blower wheel to shaft of motor. Had to lightly tap with rubber hammer to slide on to "D" shaped shaft of motor. Manually turned blower wheel to check out. Re-installed cover, front panel and lid in reverse order. Plugged in power cord. Told wife the dryer was fixed and became a hero, (might be because I started the next load of clothes).
Unplugged Power Cord, Removed Duct.Pupped Top Lid Loose to Reveal Door Panel Screws. Removed Door Panel to Discover Blower Wheel had Disintergrated @ the Shaft..Located Part from On-Line (as have in past) andPlaced Order, On-Line ( Of Course ).Received Part, via: Fed-Ex in Two Days..Whoo Hoo. Whole Family Welcomed the Repair.ThanX . Satisfied Consumer :)
Took the front off, took the shield off, replaced wheel and retainer clip. Replace wheel and reversed procedures. Easy as pie.
1. Opened top and removed wire clamps from side and front for door switch.2. Removed two screws and pulled front cover off.3. Removed drive belt from tensioner pulley and moved to back of dryer.4. Pulled drum off rear guide wheels and lifted drum out of dryer.5. Unplugged motor electrical connector and removed idler wheel spring and idler assembly.6. Removed screws holding blower wheel cover to case.7. Removed snap ring and spring clamp from blower wheel and pulled blower wheel off motor shaft.8. Popped rear motor clamp off with screwdriver.9. Unscrewed screw holding rear motor support to dryer bottom and removed rear motor support.10. Twisted motor assembly 1/8 turn to right and pulled motor rearward out of blower housing.11. Removed blower rear snap ring from old motor and moved to new motor shaft.12. Reversed procedures 1-10 to install motor, connector, idler, blower wheel, blower wheel cover, drum, belt, front cover and top cover.
The new blower fan was made of molded plastic in which the hole internal diameter contained extra material
Turn circuit breaker off, unplug for added safety. Use a medium flat head screwdriver and lift the top up. Use a nut driver to remove two screws holding the front panel to the frame. Remove the front panel and begin to dismantle the blower wheel. Remove the outer clamp from hte motor shaft, then the U-clip (inexpensive plier that has to pins to open the U-clip.... tricky little bugger). Pull the blower wheel off and replace with the new wheel. Reverse the proedure and your ready to go.
My wife noticed a loud racket coming from the dryer. I took a look at it by opening the door and spinning the drum by hand and sure enough, the grinding, clunking noise continued. After a day of drying clothes, the noise got worse and then my wife said the clothes weren't getting dry at all. She could see the heating element glowing but the clothes would not dry. Sure enough, this was the case. While the dryer was turning, the outlet hose was still cold but the heater element was on. I went to the PartSelect site, entered the model number and looked at the common problems associated with noise. It said that the blower wheel was the second most likely issue. It also showed how to open the dryer and look for problem areas. First, unplug the dryer! Then, I took a putty knife (screwdriver would work - flathead) and pryed open the lid at each corner and opened the top. I then tilted the lid back against the wall to support the lid. There are two screws that hold the front panel of the dryer to the sides. They are on the inside of the cabinet up high near the top. I took these screws out and the front comes off by pulling the front panel away then up. There are three wires attached to a sensor on the front panel. I took a picture of these for reference and disconnected these wires to totally remove the panel. With the front panel off, I could see large clumps of lint trapped at the base of the filter screen. Now is a good time to vacuum this clean. Inside the cabinet at the bottom right, you can see the blower wheel. It was totally broken off the shaft that turned it. You can still spin the drum and see the shaft turn but the broken blower wheel would "clunk" around causing the noise. There are a small handfull of screws that hold the faceplate of the blower assembly on. Take these off and you will have full access to the blower wheel. DOn't worry about the wires on the sensor attached to the faceplate. If you want to take these off their clips, take a sharpie and write the color of wire each clip takes on the front of the faceplate for reference. The blower wheel is held on to the shaft by a circlip that is easily pushed off with a screwdriver or pliers and also a spring clip that is taken off with pliers by gripping the tabs with the pliers and squeezing the clip open. Save these two parts because the replacement wheel does not come with these pieces. I ordered the blower wheel, it was here in two days and replaced the wheel. Note: The wheel will take some effort to fully seat it on the shaft. You can take a hair dryer and warm the center of the wheel where the shaft will go thru to make the install easier. Do not use a hammer to beat the wheel onto the shaft or you will be ordering another wheel. I put my left hand behind the blower as support and pushed the wheel onto the shaft with my right hand and using a towel to cover the wheel center as padding. Reinstall the spring clip over the wheel shaft support and then pry the circlip back on the end of the shaft with pliers, reinstall the blower faceplate, reconnect any wires, reinstall the dryer front panel by first leaning the panel out and dropping the front panel onto the cabinet tabs at the bottom and then closing the front panel and screw it back down with the two screws. Reattach the three wires, close the lid, plug it in and your back in business. It took me longer to write this than it did to repair it. Good luck!
All brand logos are trademarks of their respective owners.
The PartSelect logo is a Registered Trademark of Atlantic Laundry Centres, Ltd.
Copyright © 1999-2016 , Eldis Group Partnership. All rights reserved.