Drive Belt

it was just 2 connections. i took off the ejection line and the drain line . put the new pump in place and made my 2 connections ..

Removed front and rear panels, removed belt, removed old springs, disconnected bleach and pump lines from tub and lifted entire tub/transmission assmebly from washer. Replaced snubber ring at bottom of transmission assembly by backing off screws just enough to allow old ring to be removed and new one to be installed. Replaced pump assembly by removing drain hose and three bolts. Installed in reverse order. Placed tub/trans assembly back into washer and installed new springs using vise grip pliers. Reconnected bleach line and pump lines to tub. Reinstalled fron and rear panels. Installed new belt on bottom side of washer. Piece of cake.

removed front door. removed one screw on wireharness cover. slid icemaker out. disconnected wireharness. removed bottom 3 remaining screws. reversed process to reinstall.

The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.
Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".
replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.
Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..

unpluged the machine , turned off the water .
removed as much water i could by hand ,with pan & towels .
Removed the front panel , tip machine on back feet & prop up .
removed belt from under the machine , take the drain hose off pump , remove pump .
installed new pump , rehook hoses , install new belt & motor pivot spring .
put front back on lower machine turn water back o
n , and plug back in .

Had to change the drain pump, the bearing was shot and was the reason for the noise and the eventual stopping/belt breakage....Watch the video on this site for the drain pump procedure it's very helpful....The drain pump swap-out was very easy...Two hose clamps and three small bolts and it was done in no time..I changed out the snubber ring while I was in there... I used vise-grips to grab the the springs for removal/installation and lifted whe whole drum out....Just as others on here have suggested just loosen the retainer screws holding the old snubber ring just enough to slip it out and the new one in...It's really that easy...The toughest part is dealing with the springs and one piece of advice I can offer is to start with the hardest to reach first and save the easiest for last upon reassembly...Put it all back together and installed the new belt...DONE !!! Works like a champ !!!

Tipped the machine against the wall. This exposed the belt which is not inside the machine. Took the old belt off put the new one on.

Followed the instructions given by robert from simpsonville SC. The only extra procedure I had to do was to put a block of wood under the tub to push the shaft up to reinstall the E-clip. This was not as difficult as I thought it would be.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.

On this particular model #MAV7550AWW Maytag washer, you do not remove a back panel since it is a three sided case. I first disconnected power and hoses from wall. Removed the belt from under the machine (you need to tilt the machine). To access the water pump you need to remove the front panel by first sliding a putty knife between the top of the machine and the panel slide it in about 2 inches from the edge to release the latch, repeat the procedure on the other side. On the inside or the panel about 2 inches there is a nut on either side once you remove both the front panel unlatches easily, from the bottom two latches. The water pump is located on the right front of the bottom plate. it is held in by three nut screws, (have plenty of towels to catch the water that is released once you disconnect the two hoses that are on the pump. The replacement part (made in the USA) is all plastic but fits perfectly. We Replaced the pump and reconnected everything. There is a video here on this site the explains in detail the removal and placement of the drive belt. The job is very simple to do. I am a woman under 5ft and I did this repair with the help of my son (17yr old). The machine is good as new. Second repair I have done on the machine and with a lot of savings!.

Couldn't have been easier.

Lifted lid, removed front cover,put assembly up on blocks, removed belt from underneath, replaced pump thru the front,installed new belt from underneath. Works good now. Thanks for the quick parts shipment and ordering was easy.

I pulled off the front cover and started the machine up to determine where the noise was coming from. I was amazed when I opened the front panel as there's only really 2 things it could have been, either a motor or the pump. Both looked easy to replace. Once I started the machine up without the front panel it was easy to determine where the noise was coming from. The pump was screeching so I knew that's where the problem was. It took about 5 minutes to remove the pump. Once I had it out I took it to the computer and looked up the part on partselect.com. It took about 10 minutes to find the correct part as there were 2 different series of pumps. I also ordered a belt because while I was down underneath the washer I figured I might as well change it. The parts arrived 4 days later and it was very easy to install the new pump. I figured I saved at least $125 by fixing it myself.