Drive Belt

Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.

First, I looked at the site for instructions on what was wrong, it explained in full detail what and how to remove and replace. We called a local Maytag dealer and told them the part number that the site told us to order and they told us we needed a whole new motor with the plastic motor pulley. they told us the part does not come separate, so we went back to the site and ordered a $6.00 part and paid a small s/h charge and when it came in we went back to the site to see how to put it back together and the instructions were perfectly awesome. The $6 part is what we actually needed not the $178 complete motor that the dealer told us we had to buy. Thanks for this wonderful site it saved us lots of money. this is the 3rd time we order from this site and the instructions we correct all 3 times, I would recommend this site to all who has a home with repairs! Thank you for putting a well useful site together.

I brought the wash machine out side, hooked a garden hose to the cold, capped the hot, took off 2ft. square back inspection cover, and plugged in the power cord for a test for leakage location. The hose from tub to pump had a small wear hole, thus leaking water on the belt and making it slip more. When my parts came in from Parts Select the repair was about 45 mins. with coffee. I laid unit on side, cleaned pulleys with rag to remove old belt fragments, and I put new belt on the 2 small pulleys then rolling onto last bigger pulley. For the hose repair- I used a screwdriver to push in the clips under front of top lid. I removed 2 screws with my 1/4 rachet to remove front panel. With my channel locks I pulled off hose , then installed new hose. The unit works great.

First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.

I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces).

1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine.

2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.

3) Removed old pump with socket wrench

4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.

5) Reconnected the two hoses.

6) Installed new belt.

7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!

You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine!

Thanks for the help!!!

The washer (bought 9 years ago) suddenly started squealing (metal on metal sound) during the spin cycle. After turning the washing machine off and unplugging it, the washer was tipped back and propped up on a milk crate to see the belt on the bottom. There was some rubber dust from the belt, so something had seized-up to some degree. The belt was removed and each pulley was tested to see if it made any noise. Upon spinning the pulley of the water pump a scraping sound was heard. Definitely not as loud as when the washer was on, but it probably would have been if it was spinning faster.

The washer was put upright again and the lid taped to the top to secure it before lifting the top. The top was opened by sliding a putty knife between the top and front panal near the left and right corners. There are two metal clasps that will release the top with gentle pressure, do not pry on the top. The top was lifted up and set back gently so as not to bend or break the hinges. There are two small screws on the upper inner right and left side of the front panel that were removed using a nut driver in order to remove the front panel.

With the front panel removed the water pump was visible in the front, lower left hand corner on the base. The two hoses were removed from the pump by moving the hose clamps up the hose, using pliers to loosen the clamps and then pulling off the hoses with a slight twisting back and forth. I put a few towels around the pump before removal to soak up the water that came out. The three bolts holding the pump in place were removed using a socket wrench and the pump removed.

The new pump was replaced, hoses were put back on, front panel replaced and the top relatch. The washer was tipped back again to get to the bottom to put on the new belt.

That was all. It worked great.

Notes:
1) Several people had mentioned having similar problems with the water pump and had observed a metal ring that had been pushed up where the pulley is connected to the shaft. I also observed this on the sqealing pump. The metal ring seem to work its way out and scrape on the metal mounting plate on the bottom of the pump. So if you see this ring, it is probably the pump.

2)I cleaned the pulleys since there was some rubber dust on them. Also you can remove the belt easily by pulling it slightly off the large pulley and then turning it off. When putting the belt back on, put it around the small pulleys first and then start it on the large pulley and turn it onto the large pulley. More leverage with the large pulley.

Placed the washer on 2 brick under the front. Removed the belt, used a straight blade screw driver for the lifting of the top off. reoved 2 bolts off the face and removed the screws of the water pump. Water pump was messy with smelly water but a bowel and a towel helps. Placed the pump on, reversed the tear apart...placed the belt on the bottom. Removed the brick under the front. Hooked up the water supply...plugged in and did a load..it worked perfectly....Thanks!!!!

I had diagnosed the problem by checking the resistance at the water inlet electrical terminals and their was no continuity. 1. I shut off the water and removed the lower access/kick panels. 2. Then I disconnected the two wires from the inlet valve terminals noting which one went to which terminal (I'm a bad person since I did not disconnect power from the dishwasher while doing this so it is up to you to decide if the time saved is worth the possible consequences). 3. Using an open end wrench I loosened and disconnected the water supply line. 4. Remove the two screws securing the valve assembly to the inside wall of the dishwasher 5. Loosen the clamp on the water outlet line and slide off the hose. Installation is pretty much the same in reverse. Some times the valve assembly comes with the wire terminals oriented in a different direction than what you may find when you take yours off. If it won't work for you, remove the four screws that hold the electrical side of the inlet valve and rotate it to the needed position. Make sure when putting it back together that you tighten the screws evenly to prevent leaks.

I knew it was the belt because of all the noise it was making. I ordered the belt and it arrived real fast. I pulled the washer away from the wall and tipped it back at about a 45 degree angle against the wall so I could get under it. I propped it with a bucket. I then pulled the old belt off and spun the new one on. Real fast & easy.

Diconnected water lines, layed washer on its side, spun pulleys and pulled belt off at the same time, put the belt on in the same way. VERY simple

I removed the screws to loosen the belt, took off the old belt and put on the new belt. Tightened it up and has been working ever since.

Thank you, Lester

you guys ship faster than anyone else. One day I order the part and a day or two later there it is. :)

1 I OPENED THE TOP OF THE WASHER FOUND THE TOP PLASTIC RIM PIECE BROKEN DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT CRACKED WHILE UNBALANCED ONE TIME. WHICH MADE IT LEAK WHICH ATE AWAY THE RUBBER SEAL . THE PARTS WERE HERE FAST AND THEY WERE THE RIGHT ONES. GREAT JOB AND I WILL TELL EVERYONE ABOUT YOU THANK YOU VERRY MUCH.

i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.

My Maytag Atlantis MAV7550AWW does not have a side inspection door like many have posted. After taking most of the washing machine apart I noticed in the front between the top lid and the main body there appeared what looked like some type of clips. I used a butter knife and pushed the V clip back and the one side of the top lid was released. After doing the other clip it was clear that was how to access the motor etc. After the top was open, it's hinged by a plastic hinge, you will need a small wrench and have to move the tub to the side to take off two small nuts also in the front. 8mm I think. Then the entire front of the machine comes off and the pump was right there. Time to remove and install the new pump was 15 minutes. I replaced the belt at this time also but had to lay the washer on it's side. Put the belt on two of the pulleys and pull hard. You will see that one of them is a spring held tightener. I did this outside on the deck as you will have water in the hoses and pump. After all was hooked up I ran a wash cycle only to hear that screeching sound was still there. My best guess is that it's a tub motor going. I am just going to use the washer till it dies then get a new one.

Unplug machine, lift about 6 inches to remove drive belt. Able to reproduce squeal by rotating pump pulley by hand. Remove front panel by using screwdriver to release retainer springs on either top corner about 1.5 inches in from corner, no need to remove control panel for this. Lift top panel to access screws behind front cover and remove (be careful here as sheet metal has sharp edges), lean front panel forward and lift off. Release hose clamps and remove from pump (hose clamp on discharge is spring type, channel locks work well here), keep towel nearby as there will be some residual water in the hoses and pump. Remove 3 bolts from top of pump to remove. Lift pump straight up to remove. Installation is reverse of removal, belt can be installed without tools (at least on series 10) as the motor pivots easily, place belt on transmission pulley first, then on pump and motor last this way you can pivot motor and slowly rotate motor pulley to guide belt on. Very easy repair, just take your time and you should have no problems.