Rubber Injector Valve

I removed the front of the washer and lifted the top. I could see the water was leaking from injector nozzle. I looked online at PartSelect.com, found my model and make. Looked up the defective parts and ordered them. They came in three days. I installed the parts in about 20 minutes and it worked fine.

Unplugged the washer. Then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel that hold the front panel on. Then I removed two screws that hold top down, under front corners. Lifted top holding lid so as not to flop backwards. Then loosened front hose clamp on injector body. Replaced valve and nozzle. Replaced hose clamp, top and front panel. Bam ---did not leak anymore.

Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from LF and RF corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the Maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled LF and RF cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in May of 1966, along with its companion Maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable Maytag washer is 799.00 at Lowes... Thank you, Fred Maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, IF it ever needs parts... and Thanks, PartSelect.com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the OEM mount to aid in that desire. It is Always Good to see American companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like Maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.

After removing the front cover and tilting up the top of the washer housing, the area of leakage was obvious. I unscrewed the clear plastic injector housing, loosened the clamp, slid the hose off of the clear plastic injector housing, and removed the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve.

I then order the plastic injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. After the parts arrived, I simply put things back together, and no more leak!

Note: When putting the plastic injector nozzle into the rubber injector valve, I used a little liquid detergent as a lube.

After figuring out how to open the washer I could not find where the leaking water had come from. I ran the washer without the front cover (cold water) and it didn't leak. When I finally accidentally blocked the intake on the tub did it squirt out inside the washer. It turned out that it would only leak with both hot and cold water combined was the pressure big enough to leak. The place it leaked was about halfway between the intake valve and where it entered the tub in what looked like a small plastic housing with slots. The functionality of this thing is still in question. I call it the Kazoo because it makes noise so you can tell the water is going in. I can see that it also holds back pressure so the washer does not fill too fast if the incoming pressure is too high, but I have my doubts about this. It turns out the intake hose is interrupted with by a jet inside a 3 inch black rubber tube (valve) that extends into the second hose. The water pressure expands the rubber (valve)and makes noise. The way I see it old rubber had maybe shrunk and lost its ability to resist pressure so it overflowed because too much water was coming through. The new piece I ordered was 3/8 inch longer then the one that came out. Maybe a planned obsolence part. (My wife wanted to buy a new washer and dryer at the first sign of trouble.) Anyway the repair was pretty simple. No clamps needed the old one is easy to undo and you just replace the kazoo. By the way while I was waiting on the parts to get here I just throttled the water pressure on the wall so it wouldn't leak. On this maytag washer you take off the screws on the front towards the bottom to start. I did not notice them untill I had damn destroyed the lid. After you remove the front cover there are 2 screws in the top front corners to remove and the the top pops off. They repair is easy understanding it took some thinking. Good luck.

The washer leaked only when i used warm or hot water. I found that the rubber injector valve would get to soft when using hot water,allowing the water to leak through and bubble out and onto the floor. I went ahead and replaced the injector nozzle, injector sleeve and the rubber injector valve. I ordered the parts monday morning and they arrived the next day. Excellent service.

First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.

Took the front off the washer. Removed the two screws that hold the top down, this allows the top of the washer to hinge back. The two hose clamps are removed, the hoses slide off the sleeve giving access to the injector and the valve.The new injector has to be placed in the rubber valve and then slid into the plastic sleeve. Tighten up hose clamps and replace top and front of washer. Sleeve had a little different design than orinigal so I figure Maytag had seen this problem before. Almost so easy a caveman could fix it.

unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order

By removing the front panel and raising the top panel, I was able to observe that water was overflowing from a small plastic "cup" that was positioned midway along the inlet lines for water entering the washer tub. None of the adjacent parts were visibly damaged or broken, but the rubber ones were soft and "gummy" to some degree. I ordered the three parts that I was able to identify, based on the photos at PartSelect.com. They arrived ahead of schedule and I was able to install them the same day. The only additional disassembly involved disconnecting the hot and cold water lines, removing the water inlet shield and gaining access to the upstream end of the old rubber hose in order to replace it with the new one.

First I removed the front panel. I then lifted off the top of the washer to gain access to the injector valve and nozzle. Then I unscrewed the retaining clips on the hoses joining the injector valve and nozzle. I separated the hoses from the injector valve/nozzle assembly. I then replaced the injector valve/nozzle assembly with replacement parts and reassenbled.

removed front panel, lifted top of washer and tilted back,pulled black fill hose off clear plastic vent,pulled worn retainer out and put new one in.

I removed the front panel and discovered the general area of the leak. Raised the top and found the injector valve had a hole in it. Removed the injector valve by removing the collar closest to the front of the washer. Searched the internet and found the PartSelect website. To my delight, not only was I able to order the part on a 27 year old washing machine, but there was also a 10 minute video on how to replace the part!! Although my wife was not terribly interested, I kept telling her how cool it was that there was a video showing how to replace this part. I think she was hoping this leak meant a new washing machine. Anyway, part replaced following the directions in the video and the old washer is fully functional again. Thanks for the awesome website!!

Removed front panel ( 2 swrews). Turned off water to washer. Unplugged power cord. Removed two screws holding down top of washer. Located source of leak. It was the injector valve. Removed hose clamps. Removed defective injector valve (2 parts). Installed now injector valve (2 parts) as shown in video. Tightened hose clamps. Replaced top cover and front panel. Done

Repair was a cinch, following this great video: http://www.partselect.com/PS2019175-Whirlpool-216201-Rubber-Injector-Valve.htm?SourceCode=1&SearchTerm=a712&ModelNum=a712#RepairVideo