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PartSelect Number PS2017573
For drain hose 7/8".
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Occasional noted leak became worse and I had a repair service out. Incorrect detection of outer tub seal made so cancelled them and read comments about raising the top. Did so just at start of a rinse cycle to see soapy water shoot from top of syphon break then continue to dribble out through tub empty process--this is what had cause the water to flow down the interior drain hose and out through the side and bottom near the pump.Ordered all the parts shown here and they arrived just in time for planned work. Did not need or use the clamp and gasket purchased as the gasket was included in the break package and I really like the old-style clamps much better.Replaced the break and the elbow and put it back together. Things went south on a rinse as water shot out the back hose at the new elbow. I had not realized the size of the new elbow was smaller than the original. Went back to the old elbow but it bothered me that it would still move when the 4 assembly bolt-screws were completely tight.So far this seems to have worked. There does not seem to be any leaking at all. For those who read this, the job could be done in about and hour for less than I spent if you observe and diagnose properly. It appears that the washer at the end of the Syphon Break wore out and that is what caused the leak.Thanks much to PartSelect for being in business and to all the posters on this site for helping everyone to get these things done right!
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Simply disconnected 2 screws that hold on a metal cover plate for your arm to fit in.Then disconnected 4 screws that hold the syphon in place, remove the syphon elbow and replace it with the new one, insert the four screws again and tighten making sure your arm is holding the elbow from the inside of the machine through the access hole. Then install access panel with the screws, do a test run with the machine pulled out to see if there are any leaks. Done.
I removed 2 screws holding the front of the cabinet and set the front panel aside. Next I removed the screw securing the relay and water level switch to the front of the cabinet, and removed 4 screws holding the top of the washer to the cabinet. I removed the hose, then removed the 4 screws securing the siphon break to the rear panel and pulled it inside the cabinet. I removed the elbow and gasket, installed the new elbow and gasket, and reassembled all parts previously removed. I reconnected the hose and fastened it to the drain, and I was back in business. It took about 35 minutes.
I removed the screws holding the Elbow in place. Removed the broken pieces and replaced them with the new part. Maytag gives great access to the back of the washer so I could easily bring the part into position to replace the screws that hold it. Worked like a champ!
replaced drum rollers and shafts. Had to go back to your web site and watch the video for replacing the belt. After that it was easy. Thanks for the help. You saved me several hundred dollars
I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lifted out of the way. I then removed the front two bolts holding the top to the frame. I slid the top forward providing access to the interior. I then removed the four screws holding the discharge unit against the back panel. I removed the broken elbow and installed the new one. I reversed the removal procedure and installed the discharge hose to the new elbow. (Note: the new elbow was slightly smaller at the discharge end than the old one. The discharge hose had a larger inside diameter than the elbow. Probably due to the age of the machine). I will pay attention to the discharge hose if I have to move the washer again.
since i had already opened up the machine to remove the old part, all i had to do was install the new part. actual time was less than 5 minutes. additional time was in putting the machine back together.a more detailed description would be:i inserted the part in the sleeve at the back of the machine,held it in place and replaced the four screws to hold it. i attached the hose and clamped it. i then re-fastened the machine's top with two screws and replaced the front panel, using the two screws to hold it in place. the machine was used the next day and worked fine.
no one in my town could identify this part, much less had it in stock. i didn't know what it was called. your online illustration gave me the information i needed to order the correct part, and replacing it was a breeze. replaced for less than the price of a service call! my 26 year old daughter did the work, supplying some much-needed validation of her girl-power!
Removed the tub cover screws, removed the broken elbow (4 screws) replaced the gasket, installed the new elbow, replaced the tub cover and screws. Tested the repair for leaks. Job finished.
pulled the washer drain hose off and replace it with a new one. it was so stiff it would not flex properly. Probably 30 years old. I broke the Syphon Break elbow because of the stiff drain hose. unscrewed 4 sheet metal screws where the Syphon Break Elbow goes through back of washing machine. opened the access hole for my arm below - 1 screw. reached up and pulled broken part out from the inside approx 12- 16 inches above. Slid the new part into place. remounted the 4 screws hold connection together. recovered access hole and attached new Drain hose with a band clamp. The new hose had 3 different size ends that can be cut to fit. I had to cut down to the smallest diameter hose. (1 inch, 1.25, or 1.5 inch). Ten to 15 minutes tops
disconnected power turned off water supply pulled washwer out from wall for easy access to area removed round inspection plate with screw driver removed four screw retaining syphon elbow inside machine pulled hose down removed broken piece install new syphon break elbow secured with 4 screws installed drain hose and new supplied hose clamp very easy great service great web site easy to locate part needed. my wife sells about 18 - 20 houses a year so im involved as her personel fix it man so the web site will be addedd to our list and refered to others
First I removed the 4 screws holding the old elbow in place. Then I removed the screw holding the cover over the upper access hole on the below the syphon break elbow. I reached up through the access hole and removed the old elbow from the inside. I slid the new elbow up through the hole, aligned it with the housing plate and then screwed the screws back in to hold it in place. I had to cut about 3" off my old drain hose, because the outside diameter of the old syphon break elbow was about 1/16" larger and had stretched the end of the hose too much to fit tightly on the new elbow. I then attached the drain hose to the new elbow and tightened the hose clamp and reinserted the hose into the drain and pushed the washer back into place. (I used the old hose clamp rather than the one included with the new elbow because it still worked fine and looked sturdier than the enclosed one.)
Performed repair through access cover in rear of machine. Removed screws with a nut driver and took out broken elbow. Pulled hose down to access hole to replace gasket then put back into position. installed elbow and reinstalled screws. ( this was tricky, have a helper to start the screws or place the screw in the nut driver with a piece of cloth to hold it in place), Make sure the screws are tightend evenly so the elbow sits completely against the gasket
Unplugged the power chord, disconnect the water lines and the drainage hose connected to the elbow. Created and cleaned a space to work, opened the top cover and the front panel to be able access to the elbow area to replace it with a new part, placed back the top cover and front panel. Installing the new drive belt at the bottom was surprisingly easy.
Removed the four screws that hold the part and also loosened the screw for a cover. Moved cover to gain access to inside of machine. Removed broken piece and replaced. Tightened screws and replaced plate. No leaks.
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