2008821-1-S-Whirlpool-12920710-High Voltage Board
2008821-1-S-Whirlpool-12920710-High Voltage Board 2008821-2-S-Whirlpool-12920710-High Voltage Board http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/EVYVVXDM.gif

High Voltage Board

PartSelect Number PS2008821

This board is located on the back of the refrigerator. It controls the operation of the unit. Note:***Please have serial number to check series.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Not dispensing water.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Clicking sound.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Compare At

    $455.96
  • You Save

    $75.99
  • Your Price

    $379.97
In Stock
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 23 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 23
 

105 of 147 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • High Voltage Board

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsSocket set

CustomerWilliam from Agoura Hills, CA

Digital display flashing and ice maker flap opening/closing

1. Unplugged refrigerator

2. Removed rear silver stainless steel panel on the right rear side of the refrigerator (if you are standing in front of the unit) using a small socket set. The panel is vertically located in center at the rear of the refrigerator.

4. Removed plastic cover over the HV controller board.

5. Unplugged 4 molex connectors attached to the board and carefully pushed on the plastic release locks that hold the board in place as not to break them and removed the HV controller board.

6. Inerted the new HV controller board and plugged in the molex connectors. All molex connectors are of unique size and will only attach to the HV controller board in one location.

7. Replaced plastic cover over HV controller board and attached stainless steel panel with a small socket set.

8. Plugged in the refrigerator.

9. Identified programming code inside the refrigerator.

10. Followed included instructions to enter program code to activate refrigerator front panel.

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60 of 62 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • High Voltage Board

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

Customerroger from rogersville, TN

Flashing lights, ice delivery door cycling

First remove the front door panel by lifting out the catch tray at bottom. Then the 2 screws it covered. Carefully pry around edges to lift the panel away from the door. Disconnect the small wire harness from the back. There are only three, you'll get it. This will stop the lights and door malfunction. Now you can wait the 10 weeks it takes to get the HV board. Your fridge will still operate, even make ice. It just won't deliver ice or water through the door.
When you recieve the HV board, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet. Remove the metal plate on the back of the fridge. This is held on by four screws. A 1/4 in nut driver is perfect. Then remove the clear plastic door covering the HV board. Pry it off with a screwdriver. Next, disconnect all of the wire harnesses by squeezing the release tabs and just pulling apart. You'll see how the board is held to the fridge. Push to one side while pulling on the other. It comes off easily. Put the new one on re-connect the harnesses, cover with both plates. Plug back into the wall.
Go to the front. Re-connect the small harness to the display board and fasten back to the fridge. Funtime.
Re programming. Follow instructions that came with the new board. It's fairly easy. What they don't tell you is that this process is done with both top doors open.
I took the old board to a friend. (Electronic wiz) He found 2 overheated capacitors. Replaced them for about $1.50. I now have a spare. I think these capacitors overheat trying to run the ice conveyor. It sometimes gets stuck. Keep it clear, you shouldn't have this problem.
Bad design. $2500 unit 3 1/2 years old needs a $200 part? And I fixed it myself. Think what 2 service calls would cost. And why aren't the boards readily available? The manufacturer MUST know there is a need.
Good luck.

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22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerDave from granite Bay, CA

Front ice maker display flashing and ice maker door flapping open and closed

I firts pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. Un plugged it and removed a metal cover off of the back of the fridge. A clear plastic container was behind the metal pael. Removed the connectors and snapped the pld board out, Put in the new one and reinstalled the cover. Had to get the code number from theinside of the frifge and entered it into the front key pad. This step took a bit of figuring to advance the numbers using the key pad but with some trial and error...Repair done.

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15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • High Voltage Board

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

CustomerRick from Lynnwood, WA

Front control pannel blinking/ice door openning &closing by self

After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.

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11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

  • High Voltage Board

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:More than 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerPaul from Phoenix, AZ

Icemaker door opening and shutting

Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigerator

Our refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.

I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.

I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)

I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.

The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.

Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.

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