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PartSelect Number PS2005746
This two position white rocker switch comes with two metal push nuts, and is typically used to control the fan or the light.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Well, since the circuit breaker blew when the fan switch burned out, I was hoping to get a new counter-top range out of this. But, no such luck. My son opened up the control module (2 screws under the fan grill) and found the problem. Then I decided that if I needed to replace ONE part, I'd replace ALL of the parts that didn't work and were worn out. First I turned off the breaker all the way, then, since the module was open anyway (it pulls out about 2 inches), I only had to remove the old fan switch using the socket set, and replace it, wire-for-wire with the new one. The flange needed to be filed down a bit because it was wider than the original, but not a problem to do. I had to use the original nuts to hold in the new one. The new ones are smaller. Just used the socket set in reverse ....done!The burner switch and knobs were a little more of a problem but only because ordering them didn't follow the rules...I needed series 3 parts, even though I had a "Run 01" range top. With the help of a very nice customer service rep, I got the correct parts the next day and replaced the burner swich the same way...used a socket set to loosen and remove the old switch and connected the new one wire-for-wire, and again needed to use the original washer and nut. (The wrong model that I initially received had a new washer and nut in the bag with the switch.) But, again, no problem. The control knobs just pull off and push on...simple. Now that I had a nearly new range top, I spent another 2 hours REALLY cleaning it (Dawn Power Dissolver is GREAT!). Looks almost like new! I guess I won't be getting a new range top for another 22 years now.....
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1st-turned off breaker, 2nd- took out the two screws that hold the control panel and lifted it up so I could remove the surface unit switch,3rd- removed wires from old switch and securing nut and removed old switch,4th- installed new switch and plugged in wires, then turned on breaker to see if burner would work and it did. 5th-turned off breaker again and removed the wires from the fan switch and used nut driver to remove retainer nuts,6th-installed new fan switch and plugged in wires, 7th- put control console back in place and the two screws that hold it in place. Turned breaker back on and everything worked.Didn't use the burner receptacle or burner.
I turned the breaker OFF and attached the wires to the switch. I then reattached the switch housing to the stove top with the two screws and turned ON the breaker. The fan worked!
First I turned off the circuit breaker that powered the cooktop. Then I removed downdraft grate. Took out the two screws that held the control panel. Gently pulled out the control panel and turned it so I could see the bottom of the rocker switch Next I disconnected the two wires from the bottom of the switch. Next I removed the nuts that hold the switch in place. Removed the old switch and installed the new one. Put the nuts back on. Replaced the wires. Slid the panel back in place. Put the two screws back in their holes and tightened them. Easy enough. Part was perfect replacement for the original. Thanks
Shut off power. Removed cover held in by place by two screws in downdraft area. Removed old switch, removed lens caps from LEDs. Placed switch on posts. Fastened switch to posts using my own nylon lock nuts (not included). Forced leads onto electrical nodes on switch. Put everything back together.
First I removed the burner control knobs by pulling them off. Then I removed the screw washers from around the burner control stems. I lifted the chrome plate from around the burner stems. I disconnected the wire plugs from the rocker switch control. I made a note of which one was plugged to what (color coded). I removed holding washers from the two screws on the switch. Then I unscrewed the small screws that hold in the rocker switch and removed the old switch. I screwed in the new switch, put on the new holding washers, plugged the wire plugs back in, replaced the chrome plate and burner stem screw washers. Replaced the burner knobs and the vent fan worked. The hardest thing was getting the holding washers back on as they are too small to go over the screw but open up as they go on. I did not have the right tool for this so used a hammer and a socket with an opening that would fit on the washer so I could bang it down.
First I turned off the power to the appliance. Then I took off the face plate where the switch and burner controls are mounted (took off 2 screws). Pulled the assembly out as far as wiring would allow and removed the two wires from the switch followed by removing the two nuts that hold the switch in place.I reversed the process to install the new switch, turned the power back on and that was that.
First, electricity was shut off from stove. Then two screws that holds the element into place was removed. I pulled element out about 3to8 inches and disconnected the wires to the damaged rocker switch. A new rocker switch was installed. Replaced element back into position and replaced the two screws. Job was finished within 10-15 minutes.
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