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PartSelect Number PS2004067
These switches mount on the surface valve. When the gas burner valve knob is depressed and turned, this part creates a spark that lights the gas and starts the burner
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The truth....This procedure will take 40 minutes total for the average "mechanic".You will need a #2 phillips screwdriver and two open end wrenches, 1/2" and 5/8" AFTER unplugging the power cord AND turning OFF the gas feed:1-Remove seven phillips head screws from largest rear panel, and remove panel.2-Disconnect the gas feedline from the manifold with 5/8" open end wrench.3-Unplug switch "set" ( 2 connectors, one inline and one spade)4-Open top oven door and remove two hexhead/phillips screws from underside of stovetop, located on far right and far left forward corners.5-Pull stovetop forward to unlatch from rear holddown clips on frame.6-Lift stovetop up enough to disconnect five gas burner supply lines from control valves with 1/2" open end wrench. 7-Remove two phillips head manifold attaching screws from topside of control valves (visible after pulling off control valve knobs)...manifold is now free, remove from stove.8-"Pop off" switches from control valves, and snap new set into place.9-Install drip shield disks on control valve shafts.10-Reverse procedure to reassemble stove.NOTES:1-Remember to install drip shield disks on control valve shafts before reattaching manifold to stovetop.2-Check all visible screws for tightness now that the covers are removed, ....you WILL find loose screws...Avoid overtightening/stripping screw holes.
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I didn't properly diagnose the problem and ordered the switch assembly which is tied to the 5 gas burner control knobs. The part was on backorder for more than a month. When it came it was easy to install by disconnecting the sheet metal top, two front screws and a ground wire at the back. Then removed two rear sheet metal panels, (about 10 phillips head screws.) The new switch assembly pressed over the burners and there were two electrical push on terminals to the module in the back. The real problem was one of the ceramic ignitors on the burner. The ceramic was chipped underneath and was actually shorting underneath like a bad spark plug. This ultra simple part is outlandishly priced. I repaired it by coating the exposed metal with a high temperature dope which provides enough insulation to make it function again.
1) Shut off gas & unplugged stove.2) Removed 2 front screws from the cooktop.3) Removed 2 back screws from the cooktop.4) Disconnected the gas line fitting from the 5 valve manifold.5) Removed 2 screws holding the 5 valve manifold to the cook top.6) Disconnected the 5 gas line connections from the manifold.7) Removed the manifold.8) Removed the ignitor switch assembly from the manifold and disconnected the wiring.9) Installed the new ignitor switch assembly and shields. Shields were not part of the origional design.10) Followed the above steps in reverse order to complete the installation.
This is not a hard fix but don't believe the stories that say it'll take 15 minutes. Took me a little over an hour to uninstall the part - maybe 30 minutes to put it together again. Easy to intermediate fix.First - kill the power using the circuit breaker, pull out the range from the wall & shut off the gas line. Unscrew two screws on the underside of the rangetop (open the oven door to access) then remove a couple more on top by the knobs. After that the top will lift up a bit. Then disconnect the 5 gas line fittings on the manifold & the main gas fitting into the manifold. Remove the back panel to unplug the wire connected to the switch. Now pull out the manifold that has the igniter switch on top. That's about it. When you look at the existing part you can easily see how the new part attaches to the manifold. Install part & put everything back together. The cost was around $46 total - hard to beat that!
Turned off the power to the unit and removed the 2 front screws on the stop-top which are underneath the front when you open the oven door. Removed the back cover and removed the 2 screws for the back of the stovetop and removed the top. Took the old igniter switches out and replaced them with the new set. The connections are simple as they are snap in no wiring required. Replace stovetop screws and replace the back cover.
The repair went very easy. Just took out the old set and put the new one in. The most time consuming part was to take off the outer parts of the stove to get to the part I needed to repair. The repair was easier than I had expected.
When I was cleaning my stove-top, water got down into the igniter switches, and shorted them out. After buying the switch harness from Part select, I had some idea how to install it, but thankfully they had online, step by step instructions. That save me a lot of time and trial and error time. It went in perfectly with their instructions. Thank you very very much for all your help! God Bless!
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