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PartSelect Number PS2003890
Also known as the door boot seal. This part includes the drain and plug. The seal is located around the door of the washer to prevent water from leaking.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
My washer was leaking when i opened the front panel to check i found that the water was leaking from door boot which had gashes in it. the task was real easy. and took me 30 minutes to fix it, this was my first time repairing any appliance and i found real easy to do. here are the steps i took:1. unscrew 2 door screws and the 2 screws opposite to them on the other side (on right if you are facing the washer)2. take door out by lifting it slightly and then pulling it out.3. hold front panel from both sides and then push in and twist outward this willl diengage front panel from the hooks on side.4. tilt front panel towards you about 40 deg. adn pull it up.5. to take top out, first remove all 4 screws from soap dispenser and take the dispenser out (just pull up after unscrewing)6. unscrew the electrical unit (where bulb is) in front top by taking out the 2 nuts Note: you must take out left most socket/coupler by pulling it before unscrewing the left nut that will give space for your wrench.7. In the front corner the Top is bolted to side frame bars you will have to look under top corner and you will see 1 nut on each side, unscrew those nuts and the lift the top ( if you have enough space (about a foot) behind the washer the Top ca n actually go all the way back and rest on wall.)8. from top view you will see a spring and metal wire system holding your boot, notice the spring position, spring has 2 hooks on each side, with needle nose pliers pull on the spring hook and have someone else disengage wire from spring hook. ( when it is time to put the wire back on the new boot just follow the same thing)9. once wire is out take the boot out by pulling it from all directions. note: you may still have water in the washer system so before you take the boot out be ready with a bucket to catch it write under the boot plug.10. your boot is still connected to washer withe the plug at the bottom. with help from needle plier press on clamp and pull plug out. note: if you see water flowing out from drain pipe (where the boot plug goes in try to keep it up to lwer the level of water that will stop the water flowing out (i took help from my 6 year old daughter for this job) now your old boot is out, trash it.:)11. put the new boot the lip of drum and put the wire back on (again i enlisted my wife and my daughter to keep the wire in place, you cannot do it alone. with 3 of us putting wire was a breeze. put the spring back at the exact same place and with exact orientation.Note: when you start to put wire and new boot on washer drum lip make sure the tiny cuts/slots on the boot slip into the the notches on washer lip other you will have leak from these spaces.12.now rest is all easy. attach the drain plug back on and then push the tabs of boot into the frontto secure it.13. put all the thing that you took out in the same order all the way to door and you are ready to goNOTE: i did not front panel back on for couple of days to make sure there i no other leak and also to make sue that boot is not leaking.have fun
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Apparently the only way to solve the notorious mold problem on the rubber gasket of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer is by replacing the door gasket. I ordered the boot kit from you and my husband attempted to do the job without the benefit of an instruction sheet, but I was finally forced to download the repair manual from the Maytag website. Using a screwdriver to remove the the front door, the detergent dispenser, and the shroud, he was able to remove the old gasket, though stretching the spring that held the gasket in place required some strength. The only tricky part was stretching the spring again that holds the replacement gasket in place. With a little ingenuity, a screwdriver (and some dishwashing liquid to make the task a little easier) he finally accomplished it. It took him over 3 hours, but the job is done and the washer seems to be working fine. Your service was fast and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate using your service again, but enclosing a detailed instruction sheet would have been helpful. Now that he knows how to do the job he acknowledges that the it shouldn't take him more than an hour the next time, should the gasket need replacement again. Meanwhile I am going to try tackling the mold problem by leaving the front door open after wiping out the water that remains on the door gasket after each wash.
use an online repair manual for your model, but in the manual it states that the tub bearings are not replaceable, if you are a skilled person capable and competent with fixing mechanical things you should be able to replace the bearings, don't forget to put in a new seal. the bearings can be found at grainger.com , have the old ones in hand for proper size as these bearings are only sold by dimension. This repair will take some time and patience.
I followed the other instructions provided by your toher users. Basically I reomved the 4 face screws secruing the front pannel assembley and the door hinges as described with a philips head screw driver. Removal of the door was easily accomplished once you played witht he hinges to slide them upward slightly to clear the lips. The soap dispenser was then loosened by removing the 4 corner screws. Take care not to completely remove the soap dish. It simply needs to be moved aside with the flexible hoses still attached. This is accomplished once the top lid is hinged upward out of the way. The face panel can then be removed and set asside ater removing the screws holding it in place. Remove the damaged boot with the anterior face (door side)first. It simply gets pulled away from the sealing flanges. With the top lid removed you should have direct visualization and access to the retaining cable and the spring tensioner. I found that neither of the previously described methods of taking the tension with pliers or having an assistant were particularly helpful. Under the soap dispenser you will notice a hole in the top lip of the side frame. I attached a piece of rope to this hole using a small snap link. The other end of the rope had an "s" link set into the middle of the rope and the other end hooked over the spring hook. Now puliing back on the loose end of the rope back towards the attachment point creates a mechanical advantage easing the spring open and then using pliers you can easily remove the retaining cable. Ease off the spring and then set aside. The posterior portion of the door boot can now be removed and the old piece discarded. Take care to disconnect the drain plug at the bottom first. Replacing the boot was fairly straighforward. I attached the posterio portion first taking care to align the indentions were appropriate. Once is was attached and aligned, use the rope assembly once again to draw tension on the spring in a controlled fashion. Hold the other end of the cable with some needle nose pliers and slip over the spring hook once enough tension is applied. This method only took me one try and the mechanical advantage created was very effective. I then turned my attention to the anterior portion of the boot and pushed it into the flanges. I also found the the required pressure was a bit stiff and your fingers will get tired quickly. Use a smooth stick or a spatula particularly underneath the door latch assembly since space is tight and you will not be able to get your fingers underneath it. Put the face palte back in place and reattach the screws. Put the soap dispenser assembly back in place and hinge the lip back into place. Reattach the screws for the soap dispenser and lid. Reattach the door and test everything for any leaks. It was not very diificult at all and it took roughly 30-45 minutes. Read all of the other stories as well to help get an overal flavor for the job beforehand.
*** MY REPAIR STORY ****** Rule #1: READ THE OTHER STORIES FIRST! ***The best tip was supplied by the guy that used a piece of good twine/string to help him reconnect the inner seal cable and spring assembly; the whole business of using a buddy to do so is a lot of hooey. Save yourself the aggravation of using your wife, kid or other mechanically-declined individual, and use the string trick. It is still a royal pain, but it is far superior with only one person, using the unbeatable mechanical advantage that the string gives you. I used a piece of good waxed poly twine; I tied it to a convenient hole near the front right side corner of the machine, and then threaded it throught the spring and pulled it with some good pliers in order to stretch the spring enough to re-engage the other loop of the inner seal cable, using needle nose pliers. Of course, it took about four shots to get it right, but I was particularly anal about getting the cable ends in their originally-installed orientation. In retrospect, it ought not make too much of a difference, as long as you keep the spring near the top of the drum and respect the placement of the cable: make sure it is fully in its recess in the seal, all the way 'round. Additionally, pay close attention to the drain hose attachment and outer seal installation; you don't want any more leaks. I have strong fingers so it was a snap, and there are both molded recesses, arrows and "tits" along the seal edges that correspond to the outline of the machine's mating surfaces. Please take the time to push in all the lugs all the way all around in all positions; your floor's dryness is depending on you. As far as the inner seal cable/spring situation goes, be aware that any slight failure to get it right will likely cause a "domino effect" that will necessitate that you to reinstall the seal along its entire periphery, on both inner and outer sides... hold onto that cable, and watch as you tension the spring... it will cause the inner seal to walk off the drum if you aren't paying attention, and you will not be able to recover the perfect position you had at first. In honesty, that is the only "difficult" part of the job. Ensure you've had ample food & drink before you undertake seal replacement ( and not alcoholic drink, either... ) ! As with all jobs of this type, the end was far better than the beginning... the machine doesn't spew water out onto the floor anymore, and helped reinforce my claim to the "most useful" Family Member status! lol My wife was nice to me for almost a week afterwards... your mileage may vary.PartSelect.com, thank you so much for not only the right part at the right price delivered fast, but also the forum where others could report their repair experiences in order to give a good heads up to those contemplating this repair job. Super site, super business, would definitely use again. A+Regards,Glenn Buononato
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.
I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole. To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts. Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone. P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener. Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.Done
I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.
The boot tear looked the easiest but turned out to be the toughest.After removing the door 2 screws, and finding the opposing two screws I removed the face panel.Removed the two screws located under the face panel directly under the washer top surface. This allows access to the top of the washer. A wire clamp held with a spring holds the boot in place. Remove the spring or roll it over the edge of the front of the washer tub. Two screws hold the sub-face panel onto the carcass of the washer. remove these. The boot comes out easily. Follow the reverse to reinstall. This may sound easy..its not! The problem lies in the wire and spring arrangement. You must hold both ends of the cable in place near the washer drum taughtly but not too tight or the pressure will cause the boot to edge over the washer tub. It became so bad I consulted a Maytag repair guy. He said we use two pair of needle nosed pliers. Tried that caused banged up knuckles and lots of bad words. I made a tool that operates like a pair of scissors holding the wire on one side and the spring on the other. If you are interested you can track me down and I will tell you how. The softener still doesn't work. Drat. I will have to replace the computer next. OUCH
easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING
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