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PartSelect Number PS2003583
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4aAttach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switchAttach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch. There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.Good Luck
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The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel. The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.Done.
This is not at hard as it seems; I followed the first guy's story and ignored the colors because mine were different. I did have to split the combined red wires, intimidating at first but once I split them it was down hill. I did have to use the jumper wire.Follow Appliance Repaired: Jenn-Air Range/Stove/Oven/Hood Model: cve3401b Age Of Appliance: 5 - 10 years Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.Attach the wire from old switch terminal 5)to S2Attach the wire from old switch terminal 4 to 4aAttach the wire from old switch terminal 3 to terminal 4 on the new switchDetach the 'compound' red wires from each other. (The ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.I attached common female connectors. Attach the newly split single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.One note:Before you remove the four screws that hold the four swtiches down make sure that you use a sharpie and mark the switchbox location. You will notice that it is difficult to get them to line up again with the holes in the cooktop.Thanks partselect.com!
Remove cooktop and placed on work bench. Removed bottom assembly by removing sheet metal screws. Removed switch bracket and then switch. Scratched head for awhile as replacement switch was quite different from original. Checked schematic on website which showed how to connect up new switch. Reassembled. Wife now talks to me again now that her favorite stove burner is working.
First, disconnected downdraft fan from ductwork below stovetop. Pushing from below, was able to lift entire stovetop assembly up to expose nuts holding glass top to the underlying burner assembly. used 2 lengths of 2x4's under the whole stovetop assembly to hold it up while I worked. Unscrewed all hex nuts and 2 screws at top of downdraft opening and easily lifted glass top off, exposing elements below. Removed a few screws holding defective switch in place. I then moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. I actually followed directions of another partsect customer. His step by step directions for the wiring was invaluable. Worked perfectly. My wife and daughter are very impressed.
I turned off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. I had to remove aluminum tape from the downdraft fan so it would disconnect from the exhaust duct. I noticed that I had a long enough electrical connection so I could just lift the cooktop up out of the opening and support it at the corners with shims. I removed all the knobs from the cooktop and then removed the 1/4" sheet metal screws that held the ceramic top to the base. My cooktop had a downdraft fan in the center which has 2 phillips head screws that at first I didn't see, but once I removed those, the ceramic top came off and exposed all the inner workings. I removed the 2 phillips screws holding the switch and then swapped each wire from the old switch to the new one. After that, it was just a matter of reversing the process to get everything back in working order.
Removed glass top from stove by taking out hex screws which secured glass top to stove frame. There are two phillips head screws inside the exhaust as well. Removed two phillips head screws which hold the burner switch in place. With a sharpie pen I marked the color coded wires on the faulty switch. Removed wires from the faulty switch. Replaced new switch using the old switch as a guide to insure that wires were connected properly. Secured new switch and glass burner top reversing above procedure. Problem solved. Note: The white dot on the control knob did not line up properly with the off position. Black out white dot and make a new one in the proper spot on the knob.
raising the cook top on to 2x2s, one on each end, allowed me to remove the 9 sheet metal screws that keep the glass top fastened to the box containing all of the heating elements and controls. After removing the control knobs and the glass top, everything was clearly visible. Removing the four screws that hold the control box frame in place allowed me to turn the switches upside down and photograph the placement of all of the wires on the pins. I then transferred the wires from the old switch to what I thought were the corresponding pins on the new switch(the replacement switch has more pins, and they are not located in exactly the same spots as the old switch). When I turned the power back on, the switch turned the burners on, I had heat but the indicator lights didn't work. I turned the breakers back off and rewired according to a previous commentors wiring directions(his model was not exactly the same as mine), the indicators worked but I was back to no heat. I called my son, who has his own commercial electric company,and he looked at my photos from before, the diagram that came with the new switch, and it took him about 15 minutes to reconnect the pins to different wires and when we turned the power back on---both indicators and heating elements worked. It was the dual switch and double indicator that made it more complex to figure out. Nice to have very smart kids.
I followed your excellent service instructions.This was the reason I purchased the part from you,even though other websites had the same part for considerably less
IMPORTANT WIRE CONNECTIONS: The manufacturer instructions describing where each wire connects is woefully incomplete. There are 6 or 7 wires to connect and only 2 are explained in the instructions. I took several photos of the original switch showing where each of the wires was connected before disconnecting and installing the new switch. If I hadn't taken the photos I would have been completely lost on where each wire connected.
I had an electrician do it. The instructions were horrible. He followed the instructions from your web site. The cooktop was not on an island so he could not remove all the screws to release the top so he worked with the top propped up. When he finally got the connections on, the small burner would not work only the large outer burner is working. He went on the computer to see if he could get more information but was unable to find any information.
Trial and error and reading and rereading the instructions.The use of the jumper wire was not detailed enough. Caller a repair man.
Couldn't hook up the wires since the instructions were so cryptic. Ended up fixing old control and re-installed it. Worked fine.
The "so called" genuine replacement switch is made by Maytag and is different than the Jennair .The shaft coming out of the Maytag switch is flat on only one side, so the knob from the Jennair ( flat on 2 sides) didn't fit. Had to order a knob for a Maytag cooktop , but the new knob doesn't align with the temperature scale on the Jennair. I just added a small white dot on the Maytag knob to indicate proper switch position.
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