1997225-1-S-Whirlpool-10442411-Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
1997225-1-S-Whirlpool-10442411-Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads 1997225-2-S-Whirlpool-10442411-Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/13642.gif

Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads

PartSelect Number PS1997225

This refrigerator defrost thermostat will cut out at 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. This thermostat controls the defrost cycle.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge too warm.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Frost buildup.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Compare At

    $49.25
  • You Save

    $8.21
  • Your Price

    $41.04
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 45 reviews What's this?
 

4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: D K from Stratton, ME

On and off the fridge wouldn't defrost properly

Did the troubleshooting with online instructions and a multimeter. Bought the new thermostat. Disassembled the freezer compartment using a nut driver to expose the evaporator, etc. The thermostat was easy to locate in the upper right hand corner. The new thermostat had one wire that didn't have the correct connector on it so I stripped the wire back and used a crimp connector and heat shrink to attach the connector from the failed thermostat. After plugging the new thermostat in I ran the refrigerator for 15 minutes to cool the thermostat and then rotated the defrost timer to the defrost position and tested the new thermostat. Reassembled the freezer compartment.

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Walt from Van Nuys, CA

No ice cubes from ice cube maker

Happen to locate your site by Google. Was impressed and really pleased to find a schematic and directions to find and remove and specs to test the water valve and Defrost thermometer using an electric multimeter. You cannot tell by "looking" at a component if it is still OK.
So I put all the freezer contents into my beach cooler. The repair went as follows.
1. Removed the 6 screws from the back panel and pulled it out of the way.
2. Located the defrost thermostat and pulled it off of the coil.
3. Pulled the two connections off and took it to the bench to test. It showed no readings indicating it was dead.
4. Ordered a new one which came in two days.
5. Had to change the electrical connections using wire nuts.
6. Reversed the process plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. It started and later on I was getting ice cubes.
A great experience. Don't mess with repair guy as they normally are not up to speed on all devices and you are paying for them to learn how to repair your appliance in several trips. Probably using this site. If you can follow instructions, you can do this stuff.
Note. I tested the Water valve using given instructions. More time is used moving things around than the actual repairs. I avoided $150.00 for a new ice maker unit.

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: David from Emmitsburg, MD

The refrigerator was warm/ freezer back frozen

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the leads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: david from bondurant, WY

Refrigerator was getting warmer.

first thing i thought was the condenser was plugged so pulled out and cleaned with shop vacum backwards so it became a blower not a vacum cleaned it good and put together. wife noticed cracking noise inside freezer. took all freezer food and shelfs out. took 1/4 inch hex nut screws out and found complete condenser solid ice. did some research on internet and found parts select stories. i buy passed thermostate and hooked heating coils direct which then thawed condenser. checked timer by turning of and it worked fine until i got part and installed.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bimetal Defrost Thermostat - 6" Leads
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: david from Lafayette, CO

Fridge and freezer too warm

First it required defrosting since the cooling area was solid ice. Note that I replaced the defrost timer first and no difference. I pulled the icemaker and racks out, then removed the door by removing the 4 screws with 1/4" nut driver. One of the sliding drawer tracks must be removed in order to get the back panel in/ out easily. The 4 screws were easily removed with my nutdriver. The screws are not all the same so keep track! Next remove the 4 screws that hold in the vent assembly where the cold air shoots out (center). Remove all of the remaining screws in the panel in the rear of the freezer compartment and pull it out. The themostat is on the right side with 2 wires and a clip that holds it on to the coolant pipe. Pull it off of the pipe and locate the connector - 5-6" from the thermostat. Pull connector apart without damaging the wires inside. Install new part the same way the old one came out and reassemble in reverse order.

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