1993872-1-S-GE-WR51X10101-Defrost Heater Harness Kit
1993872-1-S-GE-WR51X10101-Defrost Heater Harness Kit 1993872-2-S-GE-WR51X10101-Defrost Heater Harness Kit 1993872-3-S-GE-WR51X10101-Defrost Heater Harness Kit http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00012392i02.gif

Defrost Heater Harness Kit

PartSelect Number PS1993872

This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge too warm.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Frost buildup.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Too warm.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Noisy.
  • Compare At

    $46.79
  • You Save

    $7.80
  • Your Price

    $38.99
In Stock
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.9 / 5.0, 197 reviews What's this?
 

14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Jeff from Elk Grove Village, IL

Freezer not defrosting/water line freezing inside freezer door

The problem I noticed was the temperature in the freezer was not cool enough. I also noticed ice forming inside the freezer.
Easily found that it was the defrost heater. Very easy to replace. Google it and you will find videos for it.
I have been having a problem with the water not working for a few years now and knew that it was freezing inside the freezer door. Just decided not to used the water.
While I was researching my defrost problem I decided to look into the water line problem and found that there was a kit for this (WR49X10173). Call GE! The customer service was great. They sent me one out at no charge. I will be returning this kit to parts select today.
Now the kicker....
Freezer is acting crazy now (about a week after I did the repair). The temp in the freezer was getting to -20 degrees according to my 5 dollar freezer temp gauge. I did talk to a service guy and he said it is almost impossible for a freezer to get that cold. Maybe my thermometer is not accurate, but it did seem that it was running when it didn't need to be running. The temp in the freezer was definitely cold enough.

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10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Defrost Heater Harness Kit
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: xiaopeng from canton, MI

Defrost heater burned out. Lots of ice in and ont he evaporator. Both breezer and refrigerator do not cool right.

Disconnected power. Removed evaporator cover in freezer. Removed the bad defrost heater. It is a glass tube about 10" long. The tube was black since the internal heater wire burned out. Use a hair dryer to melt ice in evaporator. Since there was excessive water coming from melt ice, I removed the back panel and took out the white plastic drain tube and collected water from the tube in a bucket. I put everything back and used the refrigerator for three days without problem, before the new heater arrived. Then I put on the new tube and everything was fine so far.

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10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Frank from Harpers Ferry, WV

Refrigerator compartment got warm

After a little research I realized my problem could be one or possibly two components of three that caused the problem. Instead of changing one at a time, I took another approach. I just bought and changed all three to save time and prevent having to do the job all over again. Each time I would have to melt the ice off of the cooling coils and this is time consuming and annoying having to melt the ice repeatedly. I put a very accurate thermometer in the fridge and have been monitoring it since I changed the components. After one week it seems to be working fine keeping the fridge at 34-38 degree F.

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9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: William from Cape Canaveral, FL

The factory "single" defrost element was burned out.

Unplugged frig. Emptied freezer shelves of food, removed ice container, removed all shelves, removed light bulb cover and light bulb, removed rear panel over coils (2 phillips on bottom and 2 1/4" hex on top/staggered. Used hair dryer hung on a wire to defrost the "ice block" over the coils. Used heavy towels to catch the water in the bottom so the condensate drain didn't just overflow. Removed the 2 screws holding the old element. Unplugged the quick disconnects. The new 2 element heater purchased at partselect is not "encapsulated" like a florescent tube as was the original. Much greater efficiency with exposed element coils. Re-routed blue wire on left of coil bank to the right-used the same split insulator that pink wire is in to keep it safe, did not need to use the jumper extention that comes with the kit. Plugged in both the blue and pink wire quick disconnects, installed the new defrost element with the 2 screws. Cut the old thermostat right up against it's sensor pot. Stripped existing wires, used my own wire nuts to mate the new thermostat, wrapped tight with electrical tape, then tucked them up underneath. Snapped the new sensor on the evaporator line at original location. Replaced panel, plugged frig back in, turned control in frig side to 1, and it works like new now. No more freezer burn. Ice cubes better. Still, this design is poor and no more ge major appliances for me.

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7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Russ from Bella Vista, AR

Freezer would have ice blockage and eventually both sides would quit cooling. Starting with the refriidgerator side then the freezer side temp would eventually begin to rise all over the course of 2 to 3 days.

Unplugged the refrigerator and removed inside back panel from the freezer compartment and left doors open to allow all ice to thaw. I chose not to use a hair dryer and speed up the process as this could possibly cause more damage if not done with caution. After all ice was melted i took both screws from heat element assembly and followed the simple instructions that came with the new part. Since meters an i dont really work well together and since defrost thermostat and temp sensor were so inexpensive. I opted to purchase those as well in my initial order. They were as simple to replace as a lightbulb. Unscrew the wire nuts from existing sensors and screw wire nuts back on to the new sensors. Buy purchasing all three items at once i felt it just ensured the fiz was complete and the unit has been operating for 7 days like new. One thing i would pass on. If it is the heating element that is burned out, the glass tuve on mine was very black and charred looking. Also when you take it out of the assembly the element was actually in two pieces. Did something cause the element to stay on until it burned out or just old age i dont know. Again, for less than 20 bucks i purchased the additional parts that would seem most obvious to replace and i would recommebd the same. Part select saved us a lot of money not only in parts but in allowing someone with no considerable knowledge in this areato make repairs without hiring an expensive repairman.

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