1960445-1-S-Whirlpool-W10131752-Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket
1960445-1-S-Whirlpool-W10131752-Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket 1960445-2-S-Whirlpool-W10131752-Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket 1960445-3-S-Whirlpool-W10131752-Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/33572.gif

Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket

PartSelect Number PS1960445

Please Note: A bad gasket is one of the causes for a door leak.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.
  • Will not dispense detergent.
  • Compare At

    $7.85
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    $1.31
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    $6.54
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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 24 reviews What's this?
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428 of 436 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Bernard from Williamsport, PA

Water leak at right side bottom of the dishwasher door

After dissassembling the unit to discover the leakage source I determined that it would do best to replace the top three contributors to the problem as listed by you. Disassembly, parts replacement and reassembly was straight forward and a few hints garnered from your good instructions and assembly blow-up drawings made the job simple with the most difficult task being the removal of the adhesive foam gasket at the bottom of the door's interior. After scraping as much of the deteriorated foam away as possible with a plastic scraper I used some of my wife's nail polisher remover and a clean-up rag (being careful not to get the remover on plastic parts)and soon I had the adhesion area surface clean and ready to receive the new seal. With close attention to clean up of residues left behind from detergent and water and care taken with part installation and reassembly it no longer leaks and I hope to get another 10-15 years of leak free operation out of the dishwasher

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37 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Alan from Jonesboro, IL

Water leak at the left corner of the units door.

My first diagnosis was that the leak was originating from a worn door seal. The door seal was replaced, but did not correct the problem. The spray bars were inspected for cracks or splits and were found to be sound. I removed the interior cover of the door and traced the water leak back to the dispenser door latch seal. The latch grommet was replaced and the problem was corrected. In order to replace the grommet, the interior door cover screws were removed using a star bit screw driver. Once the door cover was separated from the door, the small motor that operates the door latch mechanism needs to be unclipped from the door cover (leave the wiring harness connected). Use a nut driver with a 1/4" socket to remove the latch mechanism (2 screws). Slide the old rubber grommet over the latch, and install the new rubber grommet. Reassemble the latch mechanism, reversing the previous steps. Done.

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24 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket
  • SLIDER
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Elliott from Tucson, AZ

Soap dispenser stopped opening.

I first removed 7 Torx screws holding the plastic housing to the door. Then removed two hex screws holding the
dispenser in place. At first I thought that the wax motor was broken, but measuring it with an ohm meter, it had the same resistance as a new wax motor (about 2-3 kOhms). Examining the release mechanism it looked like the stem at the back of the latch was a bit bent. I replaced both the latch and the slider. However, I probably only needed to replace the slider. After reassembling the pieces, the soap dispenser now works. By the way, as another poster noted, you can only test the mechanism when the dispenser door is closed and the latch is
displaced from its normal position.

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14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Soap Cup Door Latch and Gasket
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: John from Mountainside, NJ

Water leaking out of the door of the dishwasher

First, the problem was the little rubber gromet on the soap door operator lever. It was not the door gasket. I had to use a torx driver to remove the 6 screws that hold inside door panel on. After separating the inside door panel from the metal door I was able to see the soap door operating mech. I then removed 2 hex head screws from the soap door operator. I was then able to remove the operators plastic lever along with the rubber gasket. I then slid the new rubber gromet over the operator lever and put the mech. back in place. I put a little silcone grease on the plastic slide bar that operates the plastic release lever of the soap door. I then made sure everything worked properly. I then put the inside door panel back on.
No more inside door leakes when the dishwasher is running.

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9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Wrench set
Customer: Charles from Melrose Park, IL

Water leak from bottom of door, and broken door spring linkage

Thanks to repair stories about door leaks on partselect.com I ordered parts for the detergent/rinse dispenser in addition to the door gasket. The installation of the door gasket is really easy, simply remove the old gasket starting at one end. I needed a small screwdriver to get the old gasket end out of its channel, then pulled the entire gasket out. I cleaned the channel with water and simply pushed the new one into the channel, starting at the left bottom and continuing around. It is important not to stretch the gasket and also to have it equal length on both sides of the tub. Total time less than 10 minutes.

The replacement of the detergent grommet requires removal of the inner door panel. I removed the seven torx-head screws along the edge of the plastic panel and lifted the panel away from the outer metal door. There are wires attached to the detergent cup motor. I tried to remove them but found it was easier to simply snap the motor out of it's retaining clip, leaving the wires attached. The inner door panel can now be removed. The detergent/ rinse aid module is removed by taking out two hex-head screws. It lifted away from the door and the grommet is right on the front, surrounding the detergent cup latch. I removed the old grommet, cleaned the residue of old detergent and water hardness from the latch and the backside of the inner door. and placed the new grommet over the latch. I used a little water on the new one to make it slide on easier. I then reattached the module to the inner door. Be sure the grommet is centered in the square hole and evenly tighten the two hex-head screws. Re attach the soap motor by snapping it in place being careful to align its plunger correctly with the soap module. There is a groove in the plunger that fits into the plastic arm of the module. Re assemble the inner door and tighten the torx-head screws evenly. This job took about 30 minutes and completely solved the leak problem.

The broken spring linkage requires partial removal of the dishwasher. First, I turned off the power and water as a precaution. I removed the undercounter philips head screws, removed the lower access panel and kick plate using a nut driver. To access the door spring mechanism, the dishwasher must be pulled out from the cabinet about 10 inches. I had flexible electric and water lines so they didn't need to be disconnected. If the water and electric are rigid, then they have to be disconnected. This may require a professional. The replacement of the door springs and linkages is very easy once the dishwasher is pulled out. Keeping the door closed and locked, simply hook one end of the spring on the linkage, attach the other end of the linkage to the door and attach the other end of the spring to the hole in the dishwasher base where the old spring was attached. It is a good idea to replace both springs and both linkages to keep equal tension on both sides of the door. Slide the dishwasher back to it's original position and replace the undercounter screws and the lower access panels. Total time less than 15 minutes.

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