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PartSelect Number PS1804752
This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. Also, a rivet tool is required for this kit - purchase locally.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
watch the video. drum roller failed(noise) but looking at the rest of the dryer I desided to replace belt(cracking) and front guides(worn through in places) also discovered it wasn't mice making nests in dryer it was stuff coming through where light protective lense should have been. The video is better instruction than I could give. Thanks.
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Opening the cabinet allowed for a through examination and listing of the worn components: 1 defective idler and mounting shaft, 1 worn drive belt, 2 sagging felt seals, 1 worn glide surface, 1 dead light bulb. Replacement parts arrived in two days. After a through vacuuming, reassembly was a snap. Both roller/shafts and glide pads were replaced as matched pairs. Unit operates now as factory new. I am not a trained repair person but simple logic, sufficient care, and attention to a clean assembly routine is all it took.
1st watched videos on making repairs on installing drum support roller kit,front glide kit and replacing tumbler belt.These repairs took approx 30 minutes but, didn't stop the rumbling. Went to a blog site that stated if these repairs didn't stop the noise I should take the tumbler belt off and see if the noise is coming from the motor area it was and further investigation revealed it was the plastic blower wheel,the flat spot on the blower shaft had worn out causing the blower wheel to rumble and vibrate. This repair took 15 minutes after watching the video on blower wheel repair. Runs better then new.
If your dryer is making a rumbling noise, change the blower wheel. It's plastic and the heating and cooling cycles causes the keyway in the plastic to give out and the wheel just spins causing the noise and the slower dry time. The other parts I replaced see below. Like many other repairs, remove screws below dryer door. Mark all wires and locations for re-assembly. Next remove front tumbler/lint screen assembly (4 sheet metal screws 2/L 2/R. Work belt off back of tumbler and remove. Use flathead screw driver to release tabs that hold felts on both front and back tumble supports. Make sure you know rotation of tumbler and install new felts so the overlap goes in direction of spin. Use a drum stick or 3/8 ratchet extension, something dull and flat to press tabs back down on felts. A screwdriver could slip off and tear cloth. Next drill out heads of the rivets on the glides and remove teflon glide and cork backer. Make sure all rivet material is removed front and back. Install new cork and glide. Rivet one side back in, then the other. Repeat on 2nd glide. Re-assemble dryer. Super smooth, super quiet.
Our dryer started making noise and we ignored it until it became a grinding sound, that's when I knew I had to fix it.The grinding was the front assembly being worn through by the fact that the glides were gone (worn away) and we continued to use the dryer. I, subsequently, had to replace the front assembly (after trying duct tape and metal epoxy, which didn't work). As there were no glides on the replacement front assembly I didn't know to replace them. They had worn away completely and I didn't realize I needed them.Well, the grinding started again (right away, acually)and I tore it apart again and that's when I realized that I needed the glides (one on each bottom side) so I got those and put them on. They are called "bearing kits" actually.They come as a cork piece that goes underneath the "vinyl" piece with the tabs going into the slots and the vinyl piece being riveted into the assembly from the underside of the assembly. I think that, so, that when the drum starts rubbing on something it will hit the rivets instead of the assembly and only damage the rivets. That way you know you need them when you hear a grinding sound and I theorize that will get your attention enough to make you want to replce them. The rivets being put in top down looks right though so "whatever" I suppose.I also had to take them to work to ask an engineer if the cork gets glued to the vinyl as I saw on one post and he agreed as the cork is porous and would be capable of being greased and retaining the grease, He was wrong of course as so many engineers are today. I think that it is rather obvious that you just slip the tabs into the slots as you're common sense brain tells you to do. The wife's happy and I'm superman once again.
First let me say I went on your forum and got instructions where to download a service manual which helped greatly. Unplugged from outlet. Removed 4 screws holding on the front panel then 4 more holding on the front tumbler support and air duct. Removed wires from light and dryness sensor and clips holding wires to panels. Pulled out the tumbler and removed belt. Removed the two drum support rollers and shafts by removing a nut on the back side of each shaft. Removed snap ring off each old shaft, installed new rollers and fiber washers onto new shafts installed snap ring and replaced on brackets with the old nut. Removed tension spring off idler pulley bracket and one screw holding on the bracket. Installed new pulley and fiber washers on new bracket and reinstalled bracket and spring. Placed new belt on tumber and reinstalled tumbler. Used drill and bit to drill out pop rivits holding on the two front glides that are attached on the front tumbler support and installed new glides and pop rivited in. Reinstalledfront support and air duct checking that felt tumbler seal front and rear were in place. Placed new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Reinstalled front panel. Removed bulb cover held on by one screw, Installed new light bulb. Also took shop vac and cleaned inside of cabinet when I had the tumber out. Plugged back in and started, sounds and works like new. Ordered parts on Sunday received Tuesday evening Fed Ex. First time dryer repair. Very happy with PartSelect web site and service.
The cheapest way out is belt tension pully and two teflon glider and it comes with rivite it only takes 30 minute and I sugest to replace the belt
Replaced the glide bearings on the front of the dryer since the bearings were worn and the front of the tub showed signs of wear. This did not fix the screeching noise. Turns out it was the belt idler pulley. It spun freely and without making noise when I spun it with my finger. However, when I placed a little tension on it and spun it slowly I was able to duplicate the noise. I removed the roller and lubricated the arm it rides on. It hasn't made the noise since.
I thought the noise was coming from the rear belt / pulley system, but found it was from the front blower wheel.First phase: disassemble to figure out problem -- found the front glides were worn and tumbler belt was old & cracked and noise was from blower wheel. Vacuumed out tons of lint. Ordered parts. Had to order rivet tool & ring pliers (tools cost $25 including shipping). One hour.Final phase: Disassemble & drill out glide rivets -- attach with new rivets (easy). Replaced blower wheel & belt (easy). One hour.Runs great -- no noise. Cleaning helped drying ability. Videos were key. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG! I didn't & nearly welded my fingers to the chassis.
Repair went very smoothly and was just as described. Total repair took 40minutes start to finish and I was amazed on how much lint was in the dryer and needed to be vaccuumed out. I recommend this site and it was very helpful. - Josh
Removed Front Panel, Filter/Drum Support and tumbler. Noted metal shavings inside cabinet on my right side. Found right front glide strip completely gone and left side deteriorated. Also spun rear drum rollers and noted noise and slight wobble on right side. Removed snap rings, washers and rollers and examined both shafts. No scoring noted so I cleaned them with mineral spirits. Used excellent website tools to rapidly identify parts needed and placed order. Parts arrived second day (w/ standard shipping option). Installed drum support wheels using new washers from kit (discarded old,thinner ones) and reused snap rings. Moving to front support, drilled out old rivets (4) from front glides with 1/4 inch bit. Inserted cork portion first followed by metal piece (I think it was teflon)and installed the rivets. Two observations here. First there were no instructions and, since my old guides were completely gone, I had to guess at the orientation. There is a pertruding tab on both pieces which I oriented to toward the drum. Once it is in its pretty obvious that the orientation is correct but you might ponder it for a minute or so. Second, one of my rivets didn't flatten out completely (probably operator error). I'm pretty sure there would have been plenty of clearance but I drilled it out and replaced it anyway. Bottton line, having a couple of extra rivets on hand might not be a bad idea. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The biggest issue will be the drive belt. Since I have replaced mine before (twenty five years old and two kids with cloth diapers -- its had alot of use) I draped the belt over the back portion of the drum before I re-install the tumbler unit. Get a helper or a piece of wood to support the tumbler and then reach over the top to position the belt. Now the tough part -- especially if you have big hands like mine. You need to reach in and fish the belt onto the motor pulley and then the tensioner. It may take two or three trys but you'll get it. Then I loosely installed the front drum support. At this point rotate the drum by hand to position the belt and run your hand around the inside of the tumbler to check the felt seal front and back. Tighten the front drum support, reinstall the front panel and you are done. Note. I chose to do everything from the front. There is a panel in the rear that will give you access to the motor. If you have the room and and can get easy access to the rear panel, it will make installing the belt easier. I don't so I chose to work everythig from the front. Timewise I suspect it is about even.
Took the front and the lint catcher off the dryer to expose the front of the drum and the glides. On our dryer the drum rests on a roller in back and smooth glides in front which are held in place by rivets. these glides had worn down to the metal so that the drum was grinding against the metal ridge as it turned. Drilled out the existing rivets using a 1/8" drill bit. Took out remains of old glides and inserted new. Rivets came with the kit and it was easy to assemble. Put it all back together and now the dryer works beautifully!!
parts came in very fast-2days. repairs were uncomplicated--dryer now runs well.
Removed front door (2 screws).Removed front panel (the component that held the glides}. that required removal of 5 screws.Cleaned it and removed old rivets and ends of glides.Installed new glides and pop riveted them in. Re-assembled panel and door and all is well.Thanks
The key points to a complex repair:Unplug the power cord and don't touch the plug conductors.. it's 220 VOLTS!!! Also I use safety glasses, just a thought.Take the small cover off the back and make a drawing right on the back of the dryer or inside the cover of how the drive belt runs off the drum to the motor and around the idler pulley. When you put it back on don't put it around the back of the metal bracket. It goes between the bracket and the puley. When you get the front off and the drum out clean the lint out of the motor. The rollers go together dry no oil or grease. Don't leave the drive belt on the floor when you put the dryer back together. A wedge on the floor under the front panel will help lift it in place.Good luck. And don't put your hands in the dryer when it's running.
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