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PartSelect Number PS1766009
This is a dryer drum drive belt. It is 89.5 inches long with four ribs on the inside for a better grip. The drive belt on your dryer attaches to the motor pulley and then wraps around the drum and a tensioner pulley, and spins the drum as the motor rotates. Your dryer drum cannot spin without this belt. Belts can stretch or become brittle over time which may cause it to malfunction. This is an original manufacturer replacement part. Be sure to use work gloved to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.
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Were these instructions helpful?
as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read
Took off control panel,top,leftside facing door,and,door panel. Replace the 2 green and 2 white slides, the front drum bearing, the rear bearing and groundind strap behind the heating element,and new belt. Put back together,run's and sounds like new. The hardest part was putting drum bearing in inside and backside of drum by yourself. Replace belt with left side panel off. Easy to get on that way.
I first unplugged the dryer and moved to an open area to work on it. I then removed the three screws that held the access plate to disconnect the drive belt from the motor. Second I removed the two screws that held the top cover on then I removed it and set it aside. Third I removed the control station the thing with all the knobs on it that was about 11 screws (there were a mix of different types of screws some were Hex, Torx and Square tip). Fourth I removed the two screws that held the front door assembly on. I did not need to disconnect any wires to the front door.Fith I removed the Drum assembly by lifting and pressing outward on the outside walls of the frame I then carried the drum and set it on secure surface and then removed the three screws that held the bearing in from the inside. After cleaning the dryer after all components were removed I then removed the heating element that holds the bearing sleeve. I then started putting things back together in reverse order until it came time for the front door upper slide assembly that came off pretty easily it just clipped on I put the white and red sliders on first then I put the whole thing on it just clipped on then I put the front door on and screwed it on and finished putting things back on in reveres order. Then plugged it up and gave it test run and no noise and it runs great I hope for another ten years.
After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves. Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!
This was very easy. The utility room is just off the kitchen. I had your repair video running on my laptop on the kitchen island and started at ~8am last Saturday. A very fun project, because all the guesswork has been eliminated by watching your repair video for a few moments, hitting pause, then doing exactly what was explained on the video. I took the time to vacuum out every piece of lint, then carefully reassembled the dryer. One bit of advice- - if you need to disconnect any wires, mark them with a Sharpie pen: one dot on both the wire and the spot you pulled it from, two dots for the second wire, etc. At reassembly time, it's a snap. Also, as you remove screws, keep a few sandwich bags handy so you can group screws together. Have fun!
Followed the instruction video and found it pretty easy. It took a little longer due to cleaning all the old lint out of the unit. Items changed fixed the problem and working like new.
removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!
As your help video showed
took it apart and replaced faulty parts, the slides were bad
Watched your video, very helpful, not exactly the same unit but all the essentials were there. The only step that was time consuming was the belt replacement with tensioner. Also needed help with the rear bearing installation. Either the drum in the video was smaller or the technician was a gorilla, couldn't reach both inside and outside as required.
Removed top cover by removing 2 screws in front door opening. Then removed front door removing 2 screws, one on each inner side of the front door. Removed 2 screws on side doors located about 9 inches from bottom of dryer to permit taking off drum. Slip off belt and remove drum. Thinking I had a bad bearing, I decided to turn the dryer on and found out I had a bad motor-still functional but noisy. I had difficulty installing the new belt since there was not access panel (which was mentioned in the service manual), so I decided to take off the left side panel-about 8 screws. With the left side panel off, it was a lot easier to install a new belt and install the new front bearings. I actually did not fix the noise, since I need to replace the motor ($$$). When it goes really bad, I can order it then, and it should not take me long to replace it.
I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.
Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.
I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.
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