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PartSelect Number PS1766009
This is a dryer drum drive belt. It is 89.5 inches long with four ribs on the inside for a better grip. The drive belt on your dryer attaches to the motor pulley and then wraps around the drum and a tensioner pulley, and spins the drum as the motor rotates. Your dryer drum cannot spin without this belt. Belts can stretch or become brittle over time which may cause it to malfunction. This is an original manufacturer replacement part. Be sure to use work gloved to protect your hands from sharp internal parts during this repair.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.
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i took the front load dryer apart found the parts that were bad ordered the parts which were a snap at partsselect at first i thought it would be tuff to put back together but the site has good pictures i put the dryer back together but had a tuff time with the belt after i watched a video it went right together i found that taking pictures with my cell phone while taking things apart helped a lot when putting it back together all in all im proud of myself i didnt think i could do it but i did and the dryer works great i will be using the site again i used it a few months ago for my washer it it worked great too!!
Started off not knowing what I was doing at all, never worked on a dryer before. I knew the drive belt was broken so I had to get to the inside of the machine. I started taking screws off (way more than I needed two) then I finally discovered that I only needed to remove the two screw in front of the dryer that secure the front panel to the top panel. I took the two screws out and the top lifted right off and the front panel/door assembly came off giving me access to the drum. I was then able to easily remove the drum which gave me easy access to the heater assembly. I removed the heater assembly and found one of the coils had broken. At the same time I realized that I purchased the wrong heater coil kit but I was able to still use the supplied coil with a little ingenuity. I then reinstalled the heater assembly into the dryer.The drive belt drove me to drink a few beers later that night. I thought it would be a breeze to install but nooooo! After reinstalling the drum and trying to reach my hands into places not meant for hands to go into, and loosing some blood in the process, I decided it might be smarter to remove the side cover. Well that was a much better idea. I was able easily rout the belt over the drive pulley and tensioner.All the covers went back on with ease and the dryer works like a charm!Overall not a hard job. I guess I just made it hard because it was my first time ever working on a dryer.Now if I can ever figure out where those two extra screws came from......?Scott D.
good replacement procedure on you tube.
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine
Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job
the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.
I simply followed the how to videos. No need to deviate from those.
TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY
Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!
Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.
removed top, 2ea screws ;removed front door,2 screws; removed left side panel,screws on bottom and back; removed belt,pulled out drum. replaced top drum bearing,installed green and white slides,re assembled w/ new belt,ops. check ok.
Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley. It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.
loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.
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