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PartSelect Number PS1766009
This drive belt is 89.5" long.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.
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I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine
Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job
removed top, 2ea screws ;removed front door,2 screws; removed left side panel,screws on bottom and back; removed belt,pulled out drum. replaced top drum bearing,installed green and white slides,re assembled w/ new belt,ops. check ok.
Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley. It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.
loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.
Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.
as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read
Took off control panel,top,leftside facing door,and,door panel. Replace the 2 green and 2 white slides, the front drum bearing, the rear bearing and groundind strap behind the heating element,and new belt. Put back together,run's and sounds like new. The hardest part was putting drum bearing in inside and backside of drum by yourself. Replace belt with left side panel off. Easy to get on that way.
I first unplugged the dryer and moved to an open area to work on it. I then removed the three screws that held the access plate to disconnect the drive belt from the motor. Second I removed the two screws that held the top cover on then I removed it and set it aside. Third I removed the control station the thing with all the knobs on it that was about 11 screws (there were a mix of different types of screws some were Hex, Torx and Square tip). Fourth I removed the two screws that held the front door assembly on. I did not need to disconnect any wires to the front door.Fith I removed the Drum assembly by lifting and pressing outward on the outside walls of the frame I then carried the drum and set it on secure surface and then removed the three screws that held the bearing in from the inside. After cleaning the dryer after all components were removed I then removed the heating element that holds the bearing sleeve. I then started putting things back together in reverse order until it came time for the front door upper slide assembly that came off pretty easily it just clipped on I put the white and red sliders on first then I put the whole thing on it just clipped on then I put the front door on and screwed it on and finished putting things back on in reveres order. Then plugged it up and gave it test run and no noise and it runs great I hope for another ten years.
After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves. Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!
This was very easy. The utility room is just off the kitchen. I had your repair video running on my laptop on the kitchen island and started at ~8am last Saturday. A very fun project, because all the guesswork has been eliminated by watching your repair video for a few moments, hitting pause, then doing exactly what was explained on the video. I took the time to vacuum out every piece of lint, then carefully reassembled the dryer. One bit of advice- - if you need to disconnect any wires, mark them with a Sharpie pen: one dot on both the wire and the spot you pulled it from, two dots for the second wire, etc. At reassembly time, it's a snap. Also, as you remove screws, keep a few sandwich bags handy so you can group screws together. Have fun!
Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.
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