1630091-1-S-Whirlpool-67001316-Light Bulb - 7W
1630091-1-S-Whirlpool-67001316-Light Bulb - 7W 1630091-2-S-Whirlpool-67001316-Light Bulb - 7W http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/Maytag_Thumb/11093.gif

Light Bulb - 7W

PartSelect Number PS1630091

Sold individually. This bulb is a 7 watt appliance incandescent light bulb.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

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    $4.00
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    $.67
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 19 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 19
 

88 of 117 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerMark from West Chester, PA

Timer won't advance for auto-sensing cycles. Low heat.

First I unplugged the dryer from the wall outlet. Then, removed the access panel in the lower front (held on by 2 screws near the floor). Then, I removed the black plastic air duct (held by 3 screws) in front of the blower. Then, with a Sharpie marker, next to each wire terminal lug, I labeled on the chassis the COLOR of each wire where it plugs on to a terminal lug (for proper wiring re-assembly later). Then, thru the lower front, I reached into the lower left rear of the dryer to remove the heating element assembly from its metal duct (held by 3 or 4 screws) - it slides down a bit, then it is easily removable. I layed the element on the floor in front of the dryer - all wiring still intact. Then, using the NEW HEATING ELEMENT and SENSORS ordered, I assembled them to match the original, re-using screws off of the old unit - and moving the wiring one-by-one from the original to the new assembly. I then installed the new heating element assembly into the duct at the lower rear of the dryer. I then replaced the 2 sensors on the front metal panel of blower housing, with new parts from my order, re-using the original wiring and screws. Then I re-installed the black plastic duct onto the front of the blower. Then, on the top of the dryer, I dissassembled the control panel from the rear, by removing 5 screws. I then found the resistor mounted on the back of the timer, and replaced it with the new one. Since the new resistor did not come with terminal lugs crimped on its wires, I had to cut the terminal lugs off of the original resistor and solder them onto the new resistor. I then reassembled the control panel. I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet and did a test run with no clothes. IT WORKED !! Then I reinstalled the lower front access panel and ran the dryer with wet clothes. IT WORKED !!

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16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set

CustomerChris from Marietta, GA

Sqeaking and sqealing

Removed the front (two screws at bottom).
Marked all the wires for the door switch, bulb socket and sensor and unplugged.
Removed the barrel hanger (four hex screws two each side).
Cleaned and vacuumed internals.
Removed the front hanger and barrell.
Started with rear rollers, removed old rollers and washers.
Using 1/2" box end wrench loosened roller shaft nuts on rear of bracket.
Installed in reverse shafts, washers, rollers, snap rings.
Installed new theromstat on new element,
Removed screws from old element.
Swapped wires from one post on old element to new. Installed new element.
Reinstalled barrell, and front hanger.
Realigned new belt, making sure all clearences around idler pulley.
Free wheeled barrel, no binding.
Re-attached sensor and switch leads.
Reattached front.

Plugged in and tested successful.
Took two hours and three beers.

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11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally Easy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

Tools

CustomerHeather from Sudlersville, MD

The flap/door to the ice maker was broke.

First let me start out by saying Parts Select was by far the best pricing and had SUPER FAST SHIPPING! Literally had the product within 2 days (regular shipping). Matter-of-fact only needed the round white piece for the ice maker door and they sold just the piece without having to buy the kit. Everyone else even Maytag would only sell me the whole kit. Anyway...as if you couldn't tell I am a woman (28) who fixes nothing. Would much rather pay someone to do it : ) However I took it upon myself to try and fix this after bugging my husband for a year. Needless to say I Did it and it took maybe 5 minutes. You do need a torch screwdriver (star shape) and yes it was in my purple girlie tool bag! Just a matter of taking out 5 screws taking the old door/flap off and replacing it! Take the time to clean while everything is already apart too. Very easy , if I can do it anyone can!

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9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set, Wrench set

CustomerJohn from Derry, NH

Idler wheel was making a screeching noise

I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!

From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!

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6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:Less than 15 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerClifford from Madison, IN

Ice maker door broke allowing open hole to freezer

The ice maker panel on the freezer door detaches by removing two screens at the bottom of the panel behind the drip tray. My son held the panel while I removed three screws holding the ice chute cover. The ice chute door is attached to a spring loaded bracket. I only needed the actual door, but it was just as easy to replace the insulation and the seal. The seal was starting to show wear. I then replaced the ice chute cover and tested the ice maker. With everything working correctly, I reinstalled the panel in the door.

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