1583805-1-S-Whirlpool-205613-Water Inlet Valve
1583805-1-S-Whirlpool-205613-Water Inlet Valve 1583805-2-S-Whirlpool-205613-Water Inlet Valve 1583805-3-S-Whirlpool-205613-Water Inlet Valve http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/37308.gif

Water Inlet Valve

PartSelect Number PS1583805

This part has two ports for water to enter. It is blue and is intended for use with many washing machines and comes with a multi-mount bracket and an outlet adaptor.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No hot or cold water.
  • Will not stop filling with water.
  • Leaking.
  • Will not fill with water.
  • Noisy.
  • Compare At

    $27.30
  • You Save

    $4.55
  • Your Price

    $22.75
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Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 78 reviews What's this?
26-30 of 78
 

2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Water Inlet Valve
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Kathy from Priest River, ID

Cold water barely coming in.

First thing I had to determine what was wrong. The machine had worked admirably for a 1980 model but over the last few years cold water input had reduced to almost nothing. There was also a slight hum during filling but it had been so gradual I really didn't recognize it as part of the problem.
After checking that the cold water faucet, hose and screens were okay I removed the front panel to see how water flowed inside the machine. I suspected the inlet valve on the machine was not working correctly so I looked on PartsSelect and found similar repair stories. I ordered one and it arrived in 2 days.
Repair was simple. Turn off hot and cold water and disconnect hoses from machine. Mine were on snug so it took pliers to get a turn started. Lay them in a pan to catch drippings. On the back remove the single nut above the inlet valve and lift to remove the panel. Remove the two mounting screws for the inlet valve. If needed rotate the electrical connections on the new inlet valve to match the old and transfer the wires. Remove the small output waterline and transfer it to the new valve. Mount the new valve to the panel and resecure the panel to the machine. Snugly attach the hot and cold water lines. Turn on the water and after checking for leaks you're good to go.

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2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Water Inlet Valve
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Tina from The Plains, VA

Washer filling up with water when idle

I removed the two hoses connected to the valve, then I removed the front panel by removing two screws on the bottom. I disconnected a drum hose connected to the top, tilted the top back, then separated the inlet valve from its metal housing by removing the screws holding it in place. I then removed the metal housing in order to have more access to the old valve. At this point, the valve was only held in place by a few wires. I noted which wires connected where and how the valve was oriented (Hot/Cold position), then removed the wire connections with pliers by grasping the connectors (not the wires). I then reversed this process to install the new valve.

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2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Water Inlet Valve
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Anne from Lexington, KY

The fill stream on my 20 plus year old maytag washer had slowed to a trickle. The hot water flow was fine, but the cold water flow was a trickle and there was a whining/groaning noise when the tub water was filling. We decided from reading other repair stories on your site that our washer had a mal

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Water Inlet Valve
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Billy from Alamogordo, NM

No water thru valve(cold)

un hook electric and shut off water:
had to remove top of washer
remove two screws holding valve in place
un hook water line and elec. wires from valve
reverse to put new valve on
Billy Myers
Alamogordo,NM 88310

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Water Inlet Valve
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Michael from Beaverdam, VA

Slow cold water fill; buzzing of inlet solenoid

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

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