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PartSelect Number PS1570190
This kit comes with one ceramic block, metal bracket, wires, and hi-temp wire nuts.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1st-turned off breaker, 2nd- took out the two screws that hold the control panel and lifted it up so I could remove the surface unit switch,3rd- removed wires from old switch and securing nut and removed old switch,4th- installed new switch and plugged in wires, then turned on breaker to see if burner would work and it did. 5th-turned off breaker again and removed the wires from the fan switch and used nut driver to remove retainer nuts,6th-installed new fan switch and plugged in wires, 7th- put control console back in place and the two screws that hold it in place. Turned breaker back on and everything worked.Didn't use the burner receptacle or burner.
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Took an volt/ohm meter tested the connections, burner resistance and wiring AFTER turning off the power. Note: I used the volt/ohm meter to check to be sure power was off. Just in case the circuit breaker box wasn't labeled correctly. After determining the switch was open and was not making connection I ordered a new one from Parts Select. I also ordered a new burner and wiring with socket since the old one appeared well used with age. By replacing the burner, wiring and switch it put the stove top in a like new condition. Parts Select was fast and had great prices. It was very easy and the connections to the switch were plug type making the repairs very easy.
* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle. * If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them. * Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug. * Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts. * The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
The repairs were very simple we just disconnected one screw then removed the old one and replace with new one. The left side took a little longer, because of the 8 screws we needed to remove to take the back panel off. But once we had it taken off the replacement was a snap. Nothing to it.
First I disconnect the breaker. I removed the defected receptacle and cut the wires. I connected the new receptacle with parts with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and everthing worked fine.
After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.
I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.
Cut broken wire and existed wire off and put splice on both new and old wires to connect them.It's easy job.
Removed screws by drilling one and using a pliers to remove 2nd one. At first did not have enough wire to pull recepticles out until I relized wires were clipped to back of range to hold in place. Unclipped wires, pulled recepticles out, cut wires and attached new recepticles by connecting wires with wire nuts (I think wire nuts were to small so I used my own a size larger). Another problem that I found was that the recepticles on my range were held in place only by the screws that attached the recepticles to the drip pan flang. I had to bend an L bracket to prop under each recepticle to hold the back of it up so the burner element would sit level over the drip pan.
Took everything apart and replace the new parts but what I really want to share is the prompt shipment of my parts, I'm very satisfied and I will recommend the web site (THANK YOU)
I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.
pulled he cooktop, replaced the recepticles, reassembled.
Replace surface burner receptacle and mounting clip by drilling a new hole for the mounting clip in the flange, connecting the receptacle wires to the stove wires and plugging in the surface burner.
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