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PartSelect Number PS1570190
This kit comes with one ceramic block, metal bracket, wires, and hi-temp wire nuts.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit.My sister's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts.The element is working great now.Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
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First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, connected the new element using the wire caps, and finished bye rescrewing the element backinto place.
The drip pans, burner knobs and electric surface elements are easily removed and replaced. The new receptacles for the burners were NOT easy to replace, but electricians were on hand to install when they replaced the cook top into the new counter top. Even the electricians had to read the instructions - and remove the control panel to replace one of the receptables. Looks like a new cook top.
This was easier than putting in a new light switch. The old receptacle would not make the necessary adjustments to the heat element to maintain the desired temperature. Even when I turned the temperature knob to "minimum", the heat element would bun at the maximum temperature. I pulled the element from the Receptacle, raised the stove top to expose the receptacle and wiring. My stove was too heavy to pull from the wall, so I had to go to the breaker box to flip off the breaker. I returned to the stove and snipped the non working receptacle (with a wire cutter) and attached the new receptacle with the ceramic wire nuts, that came with the assembly. I turned the electric-breaker back on, and tested the heat element. The element will now make the on/off adjustments on each temperature setting, to maintain the correct heat. I ordered two receptacles because I wanted a spare. I do a lot of baking during special-day dinners, for my family members... and due to the age of my stove, I bought the bake element as a "back up" if the present Bake-element burns out.
Replaced receptacle but it was not the problem. After further inspection I believe that the problem is the switch. The switch is on order now from Part Select.
This was a piece of cake since the parts were a perfect replacement. I took the element apart and replaced the two receptacles by cutting the old wires and using the included wire nuts to splice the wires. The two switches were easily replaced by carefully connecting the wires like they were hooked up on the old switches. The indicator light was also easily replaced, although snapping the lens into place seemed to take a lot of force (I was afraid that I might break it). All in all, quite easy.
Searched for parts and found PartsSelect to substantially underprice Sears for same items. removed old recept. with a screwdriver, no problem, had a little difficulty getting new wires attached as hand wouldn't fit under burner area and the wires were short. Also the recept. bracket screw hole was a little tight for the screw so I had to "stretch" it out a bit. Replacing drip pans and rings was a simple change out of the old, no tools needed for that. Overall an easy job.
First, I removed the two screws holding the element in place. I removed the element from the connector. I then removed the trim ring and drip pan. I unscrewed the retaining screw holding the connector and pulled out the connector about three inches and disconnected the two wires leading to from the old connector. I removed the old connector. I then connected the two wires leading from the new connector and fasten the connector to its retainer with a screw . I reinserted the drip pan and trim ring and plugged the new element into the connector. I turned on control knob to high and tested the element., which glowed red hot. Job completed and customer very well satisfied..
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
replaced parts... the burner receptacle was the only part requiring tools. 10 min. fix.
Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.
Had to drill out screw for old connector bracket and also had to extend wires from controls this took most time. Once done with this used wire cutters to strip back insulation and then put the whole mess back together also used a larger wire nut to reconnect wires.
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!
1st-turned off breaker, 2nd- took out the two screws that hold the control panel and lifted it up so I could remove the surface unit switch,3rd- removed wires from old switch and securing nut and removed old switch,4th- installed new switch and plugged in wires, then turned on breaker to see if burner would work and it did. 5th-turned off breaker again and removed the wires from the fan switch and used nut driver to remove retainer nuts,6th-installed new fan switch and plugged in wires, 7th- put control console back in place and the two screws that hold it in place. Turned breaker back on and everything worked.Didn't use the burner receptacle or burner.
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.2. Raise the control panel3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.6. Reset the break and test.
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