Long Oven Sensor

The front oven control panel was already in need of replacement. The digital readout had quit working sometime ago, so we began by replacing the control panel as well as the temperature probe. Neither of these items did the trick. Next I replaced the HI/Lo sensor switch. This replacement was a bit more labor intensive. Have to remove several screws and remove a large portion of the top of the stove. Once access is gained to the hi/lo switch, it takes (2) minutes to replace it. This of course did not take care of the problem either. Finally I replaced the bake/broil/convection circuit board. This was a bit of a job, only because of the amount of wires to and from this board. I litterally took a picture of the board (from this web site) and drew in the wires and marked them by color and noted where they went. I then merely unplugged each wire and with one screw, removed the board and installed the new one. After plugging in the wires as per my picture, SUCCESS. The board did the trick. Over all, it was not bad doing the work myself. I know we saved a lot of money my doing it ourselves. Just gotta have patience.

I was out pricing new stoves. Why are slide in stoves twice the price of regular stoves?? I tried one last go at ordering part, overnight mail. Needed to get it fixed for the holiday meal. Part came within one day, early, and it worked. Stove fixed easily, spent the money on a big screen TV.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

I wasn't sure if it was the heating element or the temperature probe not allowing the oven to go above 200 degrees so I ordered both from Selectparts. After receiving my replacement parts (in record time thank you) the oven element had a hidden slit on the underside near the connection. During its removal the element disintegrated at that point.

Since Maytag is very user friendly to maintain, it was a matter of removing the retaining nuts securing the element to the back of the oven, and resecuring after replacing with the new element. I did have to take the back panel off the oven to reattach the wiring to the element. This was necessary because while I was removing and replacing the element, the insulation was pulled through the access holes. I also replaced the temperature probe because I had already ordered it. This was easier to replace however and I did not encounter the isulation problem as I had when removing/replacing the element. I recommended your company to my friends and would definately order parts from you should I need to repair another appliance in the future. Thank you again.

Change Temp Sensor-Turn off the power or unplug unit, remove oven racks, removed the two screws that hold temp sensor, pull out and unplug.
Change Igniter-Remove two front screws holding bottom cover on and lift out of place, next remove the two wing nuts holding square plate on, next remove the three screws holding gas tube in place, remove gas tube pulling wire carefully through and unplug it. Remove the two screws that hold igniter to gas tube. I found it easier to pull stove out and remove back bottom left square cover held in with four screws to fish the igniter cable back through.
Oven now heats to 350 in 8 minutes.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

replaced Hi-Limit button by removing rear oven cover. Changing by removing screws than replacing with new button.................................. changed sensor by removing screws inside oven and replcing with new unit. changed connector behind rear cover.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

Replaced both parts to not take any chances. Had to first find the hole in the back of the oven for the temperature sensor kit. We were trying too hard and overlooked the obvious. It goes behind the small black panel, as you look at the back of the stove it is top left and held in place by only one screw. Once we found it everything went very well and the oven is working great-back in the cake business again!

The digital clock was a snape to install but the long oven sensor required installation from the back. This means removing the double oven from the cabinet. I'm saving this repair for the installation of new cabinets.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.