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PartSelect Number PS1570070
This drum support roller includes one drum roller and two bearings. Most dryers use two drum rollers, and is recommended to change both at once.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This roller shaft acts as the axel for the drum roller. Also known as drum roller axle.
This roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is used for some of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers.Sold individually.
This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. Also, a rivet tool is required for this kit - purchase locally.
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of the front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job. Thank you.
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removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom).2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
I received my parts promptly and had no problems, they were accurate and fit well. After removing the screws to the front door and panel I removed the wires to the door switch. Carefully I removed the belt and removed the drum. I took the time to vacuum all of the lent from the inside and and remove from all the wiring, motor and heating elements, etc. I replaced the drum rollers, belt, front glides and a buzzer that was on the blink. I reassembled the dryer and unforetunately the dryer was still squeeking. I later repeated the process and found that the tensioner wheel for the belt was the culprit. I cleaned then greased the bearing portion and replaced it. I reassembled the dryer a second time and now it's quiet as a mouse. By the way, you will need a rivet gun to replace the front glides and I recommend you give the belt tensioner wheel a good inspection the first time. If your dryer is squeeking, go ahead and order the tensioner wheel also, it's a little money spent toward making sure you get rid of the noise! It might save you a lot of time and trouble.
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etcCarefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
I told my wife, "it's working fine. Let's just wait until it breaks, and I'll fix it." She said the noise is intolerable and if I didn't fix it, she'd "call someone to come and look at it." The forums all suggested that noise during operation is due to worn out components that are involved with turning the tumbler. So I ordered a bunch of parts from Partselect.com and set to work. I replaced the belt, the belt idler wheel, and both of the tumbler support wheels.I reinstalled the tumbler, plugged the dryer in, and started it up. Damn, the same noise as before. Wait! The tumbler isn't turning. In my haste to see if the noise was gone, I'd forgotten to rethread the belt. Analysis: noise unchanged but tumbler not rotating. Conclusion: the hateful noise has nothing to do with any of the components involved in turning the tumbler.Looking and listening more closely, I determined that the noise was coming from the blower, the plastic squirrel-cage like assembly attached to the other end of the motor shaft. It seems to be rattling on the shaft, causing the noise. I remove it, clean off a couple decades of matted-on lint, and reinstall it. No change.I do not have a replacement blower, so I remove the blower from the shaft, clean up the shaft with alcohol, then put a piece of plastic electrical tape part way around the shaft, effectively increasing its OD by a few thousandths of an inch. I reinstall the blower, put everything back together again, and start it up. No noise -- nothing but a low purring hum! Good enough for me, for as long as it lasts. When my improvised patch fails, I'll order a new blower and install that.It's good that I was so stupid as to forget to reinstall the belt before I started the dryer the first time. Since the noise was still there, I was forced to re-examine my assumption that the noise was being caused by a worn-out tumbler-turning component. If i HAD installed the belt the first time, I'm sure I would have continued with the incorrect assumption that the noise problem was related to the tumbler.My time and money weren't wasted, I don't think. The various wheels and the belt were over 16 years old and due for replacement anyhow.
First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.
After taking the dryer apart, I found that one of the drum support rollers was barely hanging on the pin and was the main cause of the metal on metal squealing noise that became increasingly worse over a month's time.I replaced both rollers, the idler pulley, and put on a new belt after giving the dryer a thorough cleaning. It was a 100% success and fixed the problem making the dryer work and sound like brand new again.
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one.
1. Unplugged dryer, removed front (2 phillips screws near bottom) set aside with wires attached2. Removed front support (4 hex head screws)3. Drilled out pop-rivets, discarded old glides (why didn't Maytag use rollers?)4. Riveted new glides in place.5. (Oops!) trimmed cork pads, smeared with glue, shoved under glides, held down until firm6. Removed drum (pushed belt back to groove, pulled drum off rollers, lifted belt off drum, worked drum out) Left belt on pulley and tension wheel as pattern when I replace it.7. Scraped old gasket felt off back chassis and front support8a. Folded gasket lengthwise and glued into front support channel with fold on outside diameter. It was too short.8b. (Oops! Why didn't this come with instructions?) Pulled it out, reversed it and replaced it with fold to inside diameter. It fit. Glued ends together.9. Glued other felt gasket into back chassis. (Good ventilation needed here!)10. Replaced rollers. (This did have instructions, despite being easy. I didn't use any grease. Experience as a locksmith says don't lube anything that isn't sealed from dust. I also vacuumed out 15 years of dust.)11. Replaced belt. (The old one looked fine, but I was advised to do the belt and rollers along with the glides.) The grooves touch the drive pulley, the flat goes around the tensioner, and the belt exiting to the left seems like it will rub the pulley, but it doesn't once the drum is installed.12. Turn the drum around (Nice, it's symmetrical!) and work it back in.13. Lift the belt around the drum edge (I used bull clips to hold it in place.)14. Check the belt on the pulleys, move the drum in more, take off clips, move the belt to the groove.15. put the drum on the rollers, lift the belt out of the groove, and spin the drum a little while watching the pulleys to check it.16. Screw the front support back in place.17. Screwed the front on and plugged it in.It works!
After much coercement from my wife, I listened to the squealing noise she kept telling me about. Then it quit working completely and I had no choice. Probably the motor. Not being one to want to do this more than once and figuring after 16 years all of it could be bad, I ordered all moving parts, as well as new front and rears felt seals for the drum and the blower seal. Everything in taking the dryer apart was straight forward and obvious. The tricky part was getting the belt back on the tensioner. Working from the front of the dryer, I did this one-handed via the lower left side around the motor while my wife held the drum in place.
Remove top two front cover screws. Disconnect wiring. Set aside front cover - door assembly. Remove two screws at top of the vertical riser cover to expose entire dryer interior. Remove filter. Remove screws to blower cover plate. Remove 4 screws that fasten front drum guide assembly. Remove drum. remove and replace 2 drum support rollers . Replace one rusted drum roller shaft. Replace both drum rollers and non-metalic washers.Drill out 4 rivets holding two front drum glides. Replace and rerivet new drum glides.Pry back slighty the many retention points around the front drum assembly which hold the front drum felt seal. Refit the new front drum felt, pressing the retaining clips back in place with a screwdriver.Replace tumbler motor belt.Install Drum. Install front drum retention assembly. Install new blower seal with reassembly of blower cover.Total time - about 1 hour
Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!
Removed the front (two screws at bottom).Marked all the wires for the door switch, bulb socket and sensor and unplugged.Removed the barrel hanger (four hex screws two each side).Cleaned and vacuumed internals.Removed the front hanger and barrell.Started with rear rollers, removed old rollers and washers. Using 1/2" box end wrench loosened roller shaft nuts on rear of bracket.Installed in reverse shafts, washers, rollers, snap rings.Installed new theromstat on new element, Removed screws from old element.Swapped wires from one post on old element to new. Installed new element.Reinstalled barrell, and front hanger. Realigned new belt, making sure all clearences around idler pulley.Free wheeled barrel, no binding.Re-attached sensor and switch leads. Reattached front.Plugged in and tested successful. Took two hours and three beers.
Turned off circuit breaker. Removed two screws at base of front panel with stubby Phillips-head screwdriver. Swung panel up about 30-degrees, and removed panel, disconnecting red and yellow wire to door switch. Removed four sheet metal screws and took off large drum support bracket. Checked drum support rollers and shafts. They were fine. Reset circuit breaker and turned on dryer. Rattling noise still present. Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from PartSelect.com. Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.
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