Drum Support Roller Kit

I am a builder and a fixer, but have never fooled around with washers and dryers. They just seemed too big and complicated and specialized. But for some reason this time I went to a Maytag parts site, ended up with Parts Select, and happened across the question of what was my problem. The loud noise answer showed most likely causes of noise, so I ordered the two parts with the the best chance to be the culprit. Then I found the video with the nice guy doing the job slowly and clearly, and it looked like a snap. It was sort of like the old Volkswagon Bug "Repairs for Idiots Book" or whatever it was called: "First, open the hood. Second, prop up the hood with a stick so it won't fall down on you. Third . . . ." Received the parts in the mail, pretty reasonable, looked at the video a second time, and opened 'er up. I was amazed at all the space in there, and how simple everything was. Wiggled and spun the rollers, then spun the fan and there it was - the grinding noise. So I replaced the fan, put it back together and the problem was solved. Later I had to put in a new belt too, so I recommend doing that any time you take out a major part in an old dryer. My old belt was sorta cracked and I should have replaced it along with the fan but I thought it would keep on working. Stupid me. But the whole program was just right for someone with an hour or two who wants to save that $150 repair bill from an appliance repair guy who comes to your home and does the exact same thing you can do yourself. Just LOVE the probability percentage list of which part is bad, and the videos on how to do the work. I'll use this system again, if needed. George

When I ordered the 2 drum support roller kits, Part Select suggested ordering the belt tension idler pulley as well. I figured this idler pulley has not been changed in 30 + years, it's time to replace. Sure glad I did, I checked the pulley when I had the dryer apart and the idler pulley was in bad shape and it was a cinch to replace while I had the dryer apart.I viewed the video supplied by Part Select twice before beginning to replace 2 drum support roller kits and the belt tension idler pulley. It was most helpful!!! What I planned as a 2 hour repair, was completed in 1 hour from the time I gathered the tools from my toolbox until they were back in the toolbox and dryer purring quietly. Thanks to the VERY detailed video and correct parts shipped in a timely manner!! 1970's/80's model Maytag washer and dryer are the best! And Part Select keeps them running!!

replaced drum rollers and shafts. Had to go back to your web site and watch the video for replacing the belt. After that it was easy. Thanks for the help. You saved me several hundred dollars

I was amazed at how quickly my order came - using normal shipping through FedEx - the video was especially helpful. I saw there an easier way to get to the problem than I had used in the past. The front of the dryer bin was very accessible - removing just 4 screws. One thing I did different from the video - was that I only moved the belt into the groove at the back of the drum, so I left it inside the dryer shell - and only moved it out far enough to replace the wheels. This way I didn't have to reposition the belt on its pulleys. Our Maytag dryer was purchased in 1983 - and with the parts from PARTSELECT we expect to use it for a long time still.

I started looking for a pair of used front loaders but got cold feet when looking at reviews. I thought maybe I would try to patch mine to get us through Christmas Holidays. Not knowing anything about how either unit even works; I luckily found your web site. I looked at your parts fiche on my units and then watched the videos on how to make the repairs. I was convinced that I could do this and I wanted to give back to your company for the good knowledge so I ordered from you. The parts where right on ,and the repairs where both successful. Thank You !

Unplug dryer, many exposed wires inside. Replace rollers, remember to order two, since there is one on each side for drum support. Use small amount of a good long term oil to help give the drum rollers added friction release. The belt was replaced since it was worn and the added cost is minimal compared to the repair. The shafts were actually in good shape, but since I ordered one I did install it. Be sure to clean up the shafts if left unreplaced since they will be dirty from priro use. The inside of dryer has various sharp edges so I recommend wearing protective gloves to prevent a nasty surface cut.

There are screws in the door frame when opened... Remove them and the front panel can be lifted with the top of the Dryer... Once the inner bulk-head is removed , the barrel can be removed.. The belt routing can be tricky if you don't look at it before it is removed.. This will save you time....Since I intended to replace both drum rollers /shafts, I just removed the 1/2" nut on the back of the shaft with an open end wrench for the right side, due to clearance, socket can be used on the left ... I also replaced the idler pulley, you don't need to replace the arm unless it is broken... Replace the belt as recommended for this Maytag model, which is smooth side w/ writing goes against the barrel...I then took some time to completely vacuum out the cabinet, the motor attracts all kinds of dust that should be removed.... I decided to go ahead an replace the Heating-element... Takes another 30 minutes but works way better than the old one ( energy -saver), as I have turned the dryer heat down to Medium and it still dries faster.... You need another set of hands to put the barrel back in and hold it until you get the bulk-head re-installed. After that it is back to a a one man job.. The Dryer now runs as quiet and efficient, as a new one... The Electric Motor will run for a 20+ years , as long as the Dryer turns easily... Open the cabinet ( now that you know how to do it ) , every other year and vacuum it out... There is a big difference in the amount of lint that is caught in the trap when the cabinet is clean..I figured I saved $350 by doing this vs. buying a new Dryer and that is huge @ Christmas time ! .. Well worth a Sunday afternoon.

Followed excellent instructions. Removed front panel of dryer and removed front bulkhead to get to the blower assembly. Removed the cover on the blower assy and saw that blower was damaged and loose on the shaft. Using snap ring pliers, removed the snap ring, then using ordinary pliers, removed the clip spring that holds blower tight on the shaft. Replaced blower and reassembled. This was probably the problem. However, since I'd ordered the drum support rollers, I replaced those, too. To do so, used rear access panel to take belt off idler pulley (to relieve the tension) then removed drum. Using snap ring pliers I removed the old rollers, replaced with the new and reassembled. The roller shafts looked fine, so I didn't replace. Reassembly of the drum and belt required an additional set of hands, so I called a friend. Note: it helps a lot to remove the two screws holding the top of the dryer in place. Then you can swivel it a bit to allow access to the top of the drum--helpful in getting the belt back on correctly. Whole job took maybe 1-1 1/2 hours. Dryer works like a charm! (Incidentally, the parts arrived within a day or two of my placing the order, and I didn't opt for the expensive shipping!)

Unplugged everything. Removed door and front of dryer to get to drum. Removed drum with belt. Replaced the drummer rollers (2) and the idler pulley wheel. Cleaned up the posts they sit on real well and applied a grease that's safe at high heat as well. I believe the idler pulley wheel was the main problem -- it even squeaked when manually spun around! We removed some screws from the back panel that were unnecessary -- everything was through the front. We had to re-assemble some on the back. Needle nose pliars or specialty pliars for the little clip fasteners (available at Advance Auto Parts) is also good for removing and re-installing those clips.

simply watch repair video on internet, make notes, and remember to note about brackets positions when reassembling

Replaced the roller and shaft. The bearing on the roller had worn out and then worn down the shaft. We let this go on for over a year. The shaft was worn half away. Found the service manual for my dryer online and used it as a guide to taking it apart. First door, then a couple of screws. Removed belt, then drum. Replaced rollers and shaft. The damaged parts were obvious. The rollers and shafts require the socket and snap ring pliers. There was a layer of rust dust all over the inside of the dryer. Vacuumed out all of the lint and rust. Put everything back together. Works great now, no squeaking.

Parts replacement was easy after I watched your video on how to do repairs. The biggest issue no covered on the video was that a ring expander is required, (which I had to purchase), if removing any of the rollers or idlers.. Also the retaining rings need to be replaced if the machine is older because they bend easily.. Another issue to mention is that lot of lint, and other junk should be vacuumed inside the drier and vents.. Total repair cost was less than $100 so should be good for many years. Saved over half buying parts from you vs buying parts locally over the counter…

Watched you tube video and followed instructions. Repair went well but the vibration still is present on start up. Considering this is not my line of work I think it was a matter of misdiagnosing the problem. The rollers were worn so probably not a total waste of time and money.

Removed front panel, removed blower bracket, removed drum and belt, removed and replaced both drum rollers, replaced belt, installed drum, installed blower bracket, installed front panel. TIPS: replace BOTH drum rollers at the same time even if just one is bad; apply a little grease to the drum roller shaft before installing the new drum rollers; pay careful attention to how the belt is installed on the clutch and drum motor BEFORE you remove it; vacuum out the inside of the dryer while you have it open.

Upon receiving my two replacement drum rollers and motor belt, I found a 3 minute video on YouTube that showed exactly how to replace my parts. Here is the link. http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Duee5SL8MEqs&sa=U&ei=5NmeTo7QDIzEsQLn-PTMCQ&ved=0CCQQtwIwBA&usg=AFQjCNGuCAz1nM-_c_rdz0n0F8QC8CXVPw I removed the front panel, removed the old motor belt, and removed the tumbler. In looking at the current drum rollers, the center of one of them was completely disengaged from the roller, which was causing the loud noise. I used my snap ring pliers to remove the old rollers and put the new ones on. I then set the drum back in place and put the new motor belt on. This was a little tricky, but the video was a big help, as it showed exactly how to loop the belt around the pulley. Once the belt was on, I closed everything back up, and my dryer was as quiet as it has ever been. For anyone facing issues with their dryer, I recommend looking for these instructional videos to assist with your repair. They saved me hundreds of dollars.