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PartSelect Number PS1570070
This drum support roller includes one drum roller and two bearings. Most dryers use two drum rollers, and is recommended to change both at once.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This roller shaft acts as the axel for the drum roller. Also known as drum roller axle.
This roller shaft washer is just under an inch in diameter and is used for some of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers.Sold individually.
This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. Also, a rivet tool is required for this kit - purchase locally.
opened the dryer, cleaned link out. replaced roller.
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Your video made the replacement easy.Parts were sent in record time.
replaced squeeze clamp with regular hose clamp, replaced drive belt,and serviced support rollers. videos are a great help. Thank you for the speedy delivery. Bill R.
I followed the instruction video on the Partselect.com website exactly except that I accessed the tensioner pulley through a panel on the rear of my dryer. Very clear and concise.
Replaced drum support roller (2) and multi rib belt noise is gone
used the drum support roller kit an easy fix to a noisy problem
Unplug maching. Remove two phillips screws to door hinges. Remove two phillips screws and plastic spacers on opposite side of door opening and, lifting door slightly pull outward away from machine. Pull front panel away from machine. Remove two hex head screws from each side of top panel catches then tip the metal hold down clips outward and set aside with screws. Lift top panel and secure from falling back down. Remove 4 hex head screws from front drum support and two small hex head screws below tub opening that supports the vent assembly. Carefully pull front drum support away from drum. Remove drum belt from motor pully and tensioning wheel. Lift drum from roller supports then remove old belt. Set drum aside. Remove spring clips from drum support rollers. Remove front washer roller support and back washer from each support shaft (2). Install new washer, roller support and front washer on each post. Reinstall spring clips. Install new belt around drum. Carefully install drum into machine, gently set on rollers and then mate to back seal. Be careful to ensure the seal is properly sealing around the drum and not pinched in any place. Reinstall front drum support, again being careful to properly seat seal. Reinstall the six hex screws (4 large/2 small). Place belt around tensioning wheel and then stretch belt over the motor pully. Turn drum to ensure it is seated properly and that belt is aligned correctly. Lower top panel and install two hex screws with metal clips. Reinstall front panel, insuring that it is seated properly. Insert two door hinges into proper slots and reinstall two phillips screws. Reinstall opposite phillips screws with plastic spacers. Ensure door closes and seats properly.
replaced roller shafts and rollers on both sides of drum to have new rollers to support drum. Works really well!
I am a builder and a fixer, but have never fooled around with washers and dryers. They just seemed too big and complicated and specialized. But for some reason this time I went to a Maytag parts site, ended up with Parts Select, and happened across the question of what was my problem. The loud noise answer showed most likely causes of noise, so I ordered the two parts with the the best chance to be the culprit. Then I found the video with the nice guy doing the job slowly and clearly, and it looked like a snap. It was sort of like the old Volkswagon Bug "Repairs for Idiots Book" or whatever it was called: "First, open the hood. Second, prop up the hood with a stick so it won't fall down on you. Third . . . ." Received the parts in the mail, pretty reasonable, looked at the video a second time, and opened 'er up. I was amazed at all the space in there, and how simple everything was. Wiggled and spun the rollers, then spun the fan and there it was - the grinding noise. So I replaced the fan, put it back together and the problem was solved. Later I had to put in a new belt too, so I recommend doing that any time you take out a major part in an old dryer. My old belt was sorta cracked and I should have replaced it along with the fan but I thought it would keep on working. Stupid me. But the whole program was just right for someone with an hour or two who wants to save that $150 repair bill from an appliance repair guy who comes to your home and does the exact same thing you can do yourself. Just LOVE the probability percentage list of which part is bad, and the videos on how to do the work. I'll use this system again, if needed. George
I was amazed at how quickly my order came - using normal shipping through FedEx - the video was especially helpful. I saw there an easier way to get to the problem than I had used in the past. The front of the dryer bin was very accessible - removing just 4 screws. One thing I did different from the video - was that I only moved the belt into the groove at the back of the drum, so I left it inside the dryer shell - and only moved it out far enough to replace the wheels. This way I didn't have to reposition the belt on its pulleys. Our Maytag dryer was purchased in 1983 - and with the parts from PARTSELECT we expect to use it for a long time still.
I started looking for a pair of used front loaders but got cold feet when looking at reviews. I thought maybe I would try to patch mine to get us through Christmas Holidays. Not knowing anything about how either unit even works; I luckily found your web site. I looked at your parts fiche on my units and then watched the videos on how to make the repairs. I was convinced that I could do this and I wanted to give back to your company for the good knowledge so I ordered from you. The parts where right on ,and the repairs where both successful. Thank You !
Unplug dryer, many exposed wires inside. Replace rollers, remember to order two, since there is one on each side for drum support. Use small amount of a good long term oil to help give the drum rollers added friction release. The belt was replaced since it was worn and the added cost is minimal compared to the repair. The shafts were actually in good shape, but since I ordered one I did install it. Be sure to clean up the shafts if left unreplaced since they will be dirty from priro use. The inside of dryer has various sharp edges so I recommend wearing protective gloves to prevent a nasty surface cut.
There are screws in the door frame when opened... Remove them and the front panel can be lifted with the top of the Dryer... Once the inner bulk-head is removed , the barrel can be removed.. The belt routing can be tricky if you don't look at it before it is removed.. This will save you time....Since I intended to replace both drum rollers /shafts, I just removed the 1/2" nut on the back of the shaft with an open end wrench for the right side, due to clearance, socket can be used on the left ... I also replaced the idler pulley, you don't need to replace the arm unless it is broken... Replace the belt as recommended for this Maytag model, which is smooth side w/ writing goes against the barrel...I then took some time to completely vacuum out the cabinet, the motor attracts all kinds of dust that should be removed.... I decided to go ahead an replace the Heating-element... Takes another 30 minutes but works way better than the old one ( energy -saver), as I have turned the dryer heat down to Medium and it still dries faster.... You need another set of hands to put the barrel back in and hold it until you get the bulk-head re-installed. After that it is back to a a one man job.. The Dryer now runs as quiet and efficient, as a new one... The Electric Motor will run for a 20+ years , as long as the Dryer turns easily... Open the cabinet ( now that you know how to do it ) , every other year and vacuum it out... There is a big difference in the amount of lint that is caught in the trap when the cabinet is clean..I figured I saved $350 by doing this vs. buying a new Dryer and that is huge @ Christmas time ! .. Well worth a Sunday afternoon.
Followed excellent instructions. Removed front panel of dryer and removed front bulkhead to get to the blower assembly. Removed the cover on the blower assy and saw that blower was damaged and loose on the shaft. Using snap ring pliers, removed the snap ring, then using ordinary pliers, removed the clip spring that holds blower tight on the shaft. Replaced blower and reassembled. This was probably the problem. However, since I'd ordered the drum support rollers, I replaced those, too. To do so, used rear access panel to take belt off idler pulley (to relieve the tension) then removed drum. Using snap ring pliers I removed the old rollers, replaced with the new and reassembled. The roller shafts looked fine, so I didn't replace. Reassembly of the drum and belt required an additional set of hands, so I called a friend. Note: it helps a lot to remove the two screws holding the top of the dryer in place. Then you can swivel it a bit to allow access to the top of the drum--helpful in getting the belt back on correctly. Whole job took maybe 1-1 1/2 hours. Dryer works like a charm! (Incidentally, the parts arrived within a day or two of my placing the order, and I didn't opt for the expensive shipping!)
Unplugged everything. Removed door and front of dryer to get to drum. Removed drum with belt. Replaced the drummer rollers (2) and the idler pulley wheel. Cleaned up the posts they sit on real well and applied a grease that's safe at high heat as well. I believe the idler pulley wheel was the main problem -- it even squeaked when manually spun around! We removed some screws from the back panel that were unnecessary -- everything was through the front. We had to re-assemble some on the back. Needle nose pliars or specialty pliars for the little clip fasteners (available at Advance Auto Parts) is also good for removing and re-installing those clips.
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