Drum Support Roller Kit

UNPLUG UNIT FROM WALL.REMOVED FRONT COVER,2 SCREWS AT BASE.
REMOVED CLIP HOLDING ROLLER ON SHAFT.
THEN REALISED FRONT DRUM SUPPORT WOULD HAVE TO BE REMOVED,4 HEX HEAD SCREWS. tHIS ALLOWED DRUM TO BE MOVED FORWARD TOWARD FRONT TO ALLOW REMOVAL OF ROLLER AN INSTALLING NEW ONE.

Piece of cake. Use the available manual to ascertain dismantling procedure. Only thing that might be tough for average DIY'er is the internal snap rings. Snap ring pliers are mandatory for quick easy repair.
Total time was probably about 15 minutes and this was the first time I had taken it apart. Quiet as a mouse now!
Very helpful site.

My 11 year old grandson and I did the repair together. He had a blast and I did too. First we removed a bunch of screws that got us no closer to getting the machine apart than when we started. Then I remembered from the last time I had the machine apart that there are two screws just below the door, angled as not to be visable unless you know where to look. Once we removed those the from came off. We removed the wires for the door light and heat sensor, remembering the order of the wires for later reinstallation. Then we undid the bolts holding down the top. Once the top was removed we took off the belt and removed the drum. We used the retainer pliers to remove the retainer ring from the first roller. We removed the roller and also the shaft as this roller was the noise maker and the shaft was not in reusable condition. We installed a new shaft, roller washer, roller, another roller washer and then the retainer ring. We repeated the same process on the other roller, although we did not replace the shaft as it was in good condition. It turned out I did not need to order the shaft washers as the rollers came with washers. Oh well, its not a good job unless you have parts left over when you are done. Once we replaced the rollers we commenced reinstallation. But first we had to google for diagram of the proper belt installation, which we found and that got the drum and belt installed properly. Thankd god for the internet. Once we had the drum installed we put the machine back together in the opposite order we took it apart. An operational test showed we did the job right, no more squeaking. The only injury was my grandson cut his thumb right after I gave him the speech about watching where your hand is going to end up when that bolt breaks free. It broke loose and into the metal bracket went his thumb. Oh well it was a good lesson and it was not a bad cut. All in all a good repair.

Removed the door then removed front panel then removed 8 screws that held the drum in. At this point reached in and removed the snap ring on the wheels and replaced the washers and wheels. Then reassembled it.

Firts I had to take all the front parts off using a screwdriver and nutdriver then I loossen the belt to get the drum out then I had to use snapping ring pliers to remove the rollers and put the new ones in I cleaned the inside of the dryer then I put everything back in place. After all that I tested it and it worked really good it took me about an hour to do all that

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

It was easier than I thought. Unplugger the dryer, took the door off, front panel and inside front panel. I wiggled the drum out and vacuumed up all the lint. All I really needed to replace was the belt and idler wheel but replaced the 2 support rollers since I had gotten new ones. The belt had a twist in it and was rubbing and causing the idler to rub against its bracket, thus wearing them both out prematurely. I slapped it all back together and it never ran better.
Thanks for the inexpensive parts and quick delivery. You guys are great!

repair was pretty easy, actually took more time removing the door and the front housing that actually changing out the rollers

Received parts within two days of order. thank you

My son did the repair work. He took off the door and then carefully unhooked the belt and removed the drum. Replacement on the drum roller kit went smooth, and he then oiled the idler pulley while he was in there. I now have a "quiet dryer" once again!!! Had orderd the wrong part to begin with, but was very easy to return, receive my credit and get the "right" replacement part.
Great Service!!!!

Went on line and got a diagram of the dryer. Removed four screws around the door. Removed the door and then the front cover. The toughest part was removing the drum. Once I got that out of the way replacing the rollers was easy. Re installed the drum. The belt was a little tricky but worked. Then replaced the front of the dryer and the door. The dryer works fine now and no more noise. Pretty easy.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall so front and back can be accessed. Remove front panel. Remove front drum support. Remove rear access panel. Disengage drive belt from idler wheel. Make careful note of course of belt and which side is "outward". Remove drum through front. Remove Rollers using circlip pliers. Remove nuts behind shafts. Remove shafts. Clean-up area and parts before re-install.

Install new Shafts and nuts. Grease shafts. Install new Rollers, washers and clips. Drape drive belt over drum while reinstalling from front. Remount drive belt over drive and idler pullies from the rear access. During this step it helps to have a helper to position the belt around the drum in correct fore/aft position, lying flat and without twists, smooth side against drum. Install front drom support. Rotate drum to seat belt before closing up. Install rear panel cover. Install Front panel. Plug it in and turn it on for a test.

Disconnected the dryer, removed the front cover, front drum support, and the entire drum (30 min.). Completely cleaned all lint and debris from inside the dryer (30 min.). Installed the new tumbler roller shafts and drum support rollers (20 min.). Installed the new drive belt (30 min.). Re-assembled and re-connected the dryer and ran to verify operation (30 min.). The dryer runs like new.
I found I didn't need the front glide kit , as I replaced the glides a couple years ago and they were in excellent condition.
All in all, the parts, service and instructions were outstanding. I will use PartSelect whenever I need to repair my appliances from now on.

It took me a lot longer to plan the repair and decide to do it than to do the actual work, knowing what I know now, and having the parts, it would take less than half an hour. As there are no repair manuals available, it took one of these reports to give me the confidence I needed to proceed.
I first found out how to open the front (only two screews on the underneath part of the front cover) and opened it to hear the noise, (just put the cover to one side while still connected to the door switch),,,,, sprayed some WD40 all over the place and the noise went away temporarily (DO NOT DO THIS as the oil will burn off on top of heater unit and smell and smoke). I replaced the roller that the drum sits on (above the heating unit) to the right of the drum and the belt. You need a special tool that fits into the little holes in the ring retainer, I got it at Lowe's ($20 +/-). It is a Channellock plier that opens when you squeeze, you have to change the points (comes with it).
So, here is the squence: remove the front panel, disconnect the swhitch (it took some pulling), set aside; remove front drum assembly (only four screws looking at you) and it comes right out; the Drum is light and comes right out as well, it just sits in a dry channel. The belt will fall off.... take the retainer ring off the roller with the special tool... remove roller and replace with new washers (one on either side) replace the ring retainer (recommend getting new one) with same tool. If you remove the small panel in the back of the washer it is very eassy to replace the belt.... I did replace it although the old one looked almost new .. instructions and a diagram come with the parts you buy here by the way... which they should say... place belt on drum per instructions (solid side down), put belt inside the chanell on drum (it will climb to the correct position by itself) put on drum front cover to hold drum in place, and then sting belt on pulley from the back of the dryer. (diagram comes with belt otherwise look at it before taking off the drum) Replace front panel (after reconnecting switch) and you are off (if you want to test without the front panel you have to touch the switch wires to each other (use tape) and do not do plugged in...
After much anxiety but not that much work the dryer runs great and is as quiet as new.... I took the parts off before ordering by the way.... the order came within three days... I am happy to have PartSelect.com .. Maytag had not clue this model even existed.... Thanks

REMOVE THE DOOR AND FRONT COVER ,THEN THE TOP FLIPS UP ,REMOVE THE FRONT DRUM SUPPORT THEN THE DRUM,REMOVE THE SNAP RING AND THE PULLEY

After taking apart the machine (applianceaid.com has slideshows for most major appliances - very comforting and reassuring - highly recommended), I used a shop-vac to clean up all lint and dirt. After getting the retainer ring off the drum roller shaft (snap ring pliers highly recommended), I replaced the drum roller along with the glides which were completely worn through (rivet gun required). I reassembled the dryer to find that the drum wouldn't turn, so I placed another order for the other drum roller and replaced the belt too. Back in business.