Flowmeter

removed washer top, checked supply hoses and inlet valve to make sure not clogged, replaced valve and while already there replaced flowmeter, reinstall top and hoses and checked machine operation, machine working fine and wife thinks i am her hero

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

The Part Select website has some great information provided by customers. I search my error code problem that shut down the washer when filling and found the most likely scenario was a faulty flowmeter.
The other problem happening at the same time was the drum filling with water when the appliance was not in use. I thought the two problems were related, but upon further research decided that the most likely cause was a faulty water inlet valve.
I order the parts from Part Select and I could not believe how fast the shipping was. I just ordered regular ground but the parts got here in a couple of days.
The repair was easy. Remove four screws (need a star bit) from the top lid of the washer and remove the cover. The flowmeter and the water inlet valve sit right on top of the washer. Even with the lousy set of pliers I used, removing the clamps and disconnecting the hoses on both parts was easy off and easy back on. I had more trouble with the electrical leads on the water inlet, only because they were on so securely and I didn't want to rip out the wiring.
All together the repair for both parts took about 30 minutes.
Make sure you turn off the water supply and be ready to mop up a little excess water from the water supply lines when you disconnect them from the washer's water inlet valve.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

After replacing the Water Inlet Valve and Flowmeter the F20 error message stopped. However, after ordering and replacing the Water Pressure Sensor the F35 error message and the SUDS error message stopped and the washer is finally working.

This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.

TAKE OFF TOP OF WASHER AND THE FLOWMETER IS IN THE BACK LEFTHAND CORNER ON THE TOP OF THE WASHER.REPLACED THE WATER LEVEL SWITCH ON THE TOP RIGHTHAND OF THE MACHINE ALSO. GOT ABOUT 150.00 TOTAL INVESTED W/SERVICE CALL FROM LOCAL TECH.F-20 HAS NOT CAME BACK YET. I HOPED IT FIXED IT WASHER IS ONLY 3 YRS. OLD. -GD

check error code : no water flow
pulled hoses [hot& cold] to clean screen in line.
pulled flow meter out from under top of hood to clean and check free wheel movement inside.
still error code F28 in mid wash cycle. called in and talk with service: he explained that hot& cold water valve was opening to slow or not enough for flow meter to read full presure. I replace water valve and flow meter. washer is doing fine. [I was getting readly to go in futher down the line and get new controler. talking to service stop me from spending a lot of money. THANK YOU

Brother who used to sell appliances opened the washer door and read the booklet inside the washer telling him the part necessary to repair the problem. $33/00 for the water flow meter Part and shipped in next morning and arrived overnight. Excellent service for only $7.00 shipping. Highly recommend this place for parts. This was after a couple of days searching the internet for those with the same problem and not receiving and exact part to fix the problem