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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I first tipped the machine on its side, so that the motor and gearbox would be exposed. I disconnected the hoses from the water mump, and removed it. I then removed the motor by unsnapping the retainer clips. the damaged coupling came off very easily. I just pried it off with a screw driver. I installed the new coupling, and put everything back in reverse order. The machine works great now.
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First, I turned the machine on it's side to provide access to the bottom/motor coupling area, then I removed the two motor straps that are connected with bolts to uncouple the motor to the coupling and transmission/pump, I also removed the hoses to the pump, then I separated the motor, then I removed the rest of the pieces of the old coupling, and then installed the new coupling, and put it back together, connected the straps back on the sides of the motor.
I had previously replaced the water pump on this washer, so I knew how to go about getting to the part that had failed this time. I disconnected the power and water lines to the washer. On this particular washer model, it has the easiest access to the coupling by laying the washer on its back panel and accessing the parts from underneath.First take off the water pump by popping off the two clips with a flat head screwdriver. Loosen the hose clamps with a pair of pliers and slide the hoses off of the water pump.To remove the motor, remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. One half of the coupling will be attached to the motor shaft and the other will be attached to the gearbox shaft. Remove both halves - they should easily slide off. Place each new coupling half on the motor and gearbox shafts. They may need a little "coaxing" - I used a large enough socket to fit on the perimeter of the coupling and a slight tap of a hammer.Install the new rubber center piece on the coupling. Rotate the motor shaft until the coupling halves line up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Re-attach the motor clips (and screws) and water pump. Re-attach water pump hoses, and you should be good to go.
I turned off water supply and unhooked water hoses from washer. I then turned washer around and turned over on its front. This exposed the motor and gear box(transmission). I took hex screw out of clip and snapped off of motor. Then took 3 bolts out of gear box so I could pull it to me and pull it off motor, this separated the coupling so I could pry it off the motor and gear box. I then lined coupling ends with both shafts and used a 1" block of wood and hit it with a hammer to drive new coupling ends in place. Line rubber center piece with holes in coupling ends and push motor back in place, then bolt gear box back, replace strap on motor(being sure to put insulating pad under strap). Line up motor to original position, set washer back up, turn around, hook water hoses back(hot line to hot connection and cold to cold connection). Be sure to check operation before turning water back on.
1.Remove drain hose from back with pliers, tip washer on back (important for ease of repair)2. Remove 2 clips holding pump and push aside3. Remove 2 screws (use a socket wrench) and unclip two clips holding motor. Disconnect electrical plugs and set moter aside.4. Replace coupler (new redesigned coupler will need to be put on using a hammer and something (suggest a socket) to seat it as it fits on rather tightly compared to old one. Be sure coupler is correctly assembled and aligned while replacing moter.5. Reverse process to reassembly.
unhook washer lay it on it's back and remove the two 1/4" nuts securing the holding straps on the motor. Seperate the motor from transmission and slip in new coupling. Reverse previous steps to reassemble. Note: remove all rubber dust from the motor so that it doesn't smoke when the motor heats up.
1st I took the brackets then water pump off. Then I unscrewed the brackets and took off the motor. Under the motor the coupling just slide off.
Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad. so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis
Unplugged power cord and disconnected the water hoses. Removed screws holding timer and switch unplugging wires to safeties to durm cover. Unsnapped clips holding the cover to frame back and then removed the cover tipping it forward. Removed pump by unsnapping the clips holding it to the motor and then removed motor by taking screws out and then unsnapping the clips. Removed broken coupling halves from both motor and transmission. This took maybe 30 minutes. Installed new coupling by driving onto shafts of transmission and motor with hammer and screwdriver used backwards. Attached motor after aligning coupling halves. Screw clips into place and then replaced pump and clips holding it. Turned motor by hand to make sure everything rotated properly. This took maybe 45 minutes. The rest of the time was spent trying to get the cover to line up on the base tabs. Was not able to get this done so ended up getting one side to fit and the other side I used self tapping screws to fasten the cover to the frame. Of course doing this after 2 hours of trying to keep the cover in line with the tabs trying to hook the clips at the top. With the screws holding the cover to the base no problem of getting the clips in place at the top and then mounting the electrial/electronics to the top. Finished by hooking up the hoses and plugging in the power cord and then testing everything out and all work great and noticed less noise coming from the machine than in the past. The cover engineering leaves something to be desired.
Unplugged all electrical connectors, removed gear case & motor as one, separated motor from gearcase, replaced coupler, reinstall, was alot easier than it looks, only thing now is it has a clicking noise when spinning, works fine, will wait for something to break and find out what clicking noise is.
Rested washer against wall so I had access to the motor/gearbox on the bottom. Unclipped motor and starter assembly - removed old coupling and spider, installed new ones and reassembled. The hardest time I had was getting the clips off - I have big hands and little patience. All in all, rather simple, but can be time consuming for what it is.
First, I removed washer housing by unscrewing top left and right screws of the housing and then flipping the timer up to expose the housing clips. Using a flat head screw driver, pry up the clips and pull up and forward and the whole housing comes off. Find the motor near the floor. Use a screw driver to unhook clips to the hose box. Pull the hose box out of the way. Use a nut driver to unscrew the screws that hold the motor clips in place. Pry the motor clips off and pull off the electrical clips to the motor and capacitor. The motor will then easily come out. Pry the broken coupling off of the motor and the tranmission. Attach the new couplings to where the old ones were. I had smack the couplings on with a hammer and a wrench extender that was slightly larger than the shafts that the couplings fit over. You must then place the rubber piece of the coupling onto to prongs on the transmission side and then line up the prongs fron the motor side. I had to rotate the motor slightly to get them to line up properly. Push the motor back into place. Re-attach the motor clips. Tighten down the clip screws. Re-attach the wires to the motor.Re-attach the hose cover and clips. Reverse the process of pulling off the housing (a bit tricky) and you are done.
You diagnosed the problem correctly, I ordered the parts, they arrived in two days, and if I had removed the cabinet as I found out I should have, after the fact, it would have been easy. My biggest problem was in the process to remove the cabinet to access the part. I should have read how to do that prior to starting. All is well now.
unpluged machine, unscrewed top (with controls)removed 2 clamp/springs below the controls top. Leaned the body of the machine forward, and off floor frame. removed water pump and clamps, and then unbolted the motor (two bolts).Removed plastic (3piece) motor coupling by prying it off with the claw end of a hammer. using a sparkplug socket, I tapped the new couplings on the motor shaft and transmission shaft. Holding the motor up while aligning the coupling was the hardest part. Installed. Reverse removal and it is back together and running smoothly. I did have some water come out of the pump when I removed it. Have some towels ready.
I followed the help video from your Partselect site with two slight variations. After prying the agitator cap off, I used snip-nose plier to twist the inner component that housed the dog leg clips. The screws that attach the top control panel are on the front of my machine under plastic corner covers. The only difficulty I had was putting one of the pressure clamps back into position that attaches the back/top control panel to the machine. Easily a 40 minute task for me, thanks to your help video I saved on the cost of a new washing machine and aquired another skill.
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