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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The shredded rubber under the machine pointed to a drive coupling failure. Unscrew the control panel and type it back. Undo the body clips on either side and tip forward and remove the body..... At least on this model. Lay the machine on it's back and remove two motor clips. Uncouple one hose so that the motor can be removed. This exposes the broken drive coupling. Remove it's remains from the motor shaft and the transmission shaft. Install the new one and reverse the steps. NO BIG DEAL. Up and running in less than one hour. Total fix cost $18.....I'll take that any day.
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used the u-tube video and it worked just as the video described it!!
I used the installation video to see how to complete the repair. It was an easy repair with the use of the video. This was the first time that I ever got and installation video, on line, with the purchase of a repair part. This site is a great parts company and I will use them every opportunity that I can
unplug, Tilt back washer, remove motor clips with screwdriver,remove drive clips with screwdriver,remover old 3 piece coupler, tap new couplers on with hammer, then replace drive and motor.10 minunte repair.Watch a video here but there is no need to remove the cover or the hoses.
Watched Youtube video, was similar except screws for topside control panel were in rear. Disasemble was simple and fast. Reassemble was a little tricky as I could only get one clip back on the motor and then the other was not reaching. I had my daughter tilt the washer back so the motor wasn't hanging down and it went together. Washer now runs like new, nice to know that I only had to pay for the part and saved myself $100 bucks! Thanks!
Removed the screws under the trim on either side of the control console then rolling the console back was able to remove front of washer. Laid washer on back and was able to get to motor pump and coupling. U Tube has very good video on how to.
Watch the video! - it a huge help with getting to the coupling. Actual coupling repair is straightforward, but I needed to tap it on with a deep socket. Biggest problem for me was removing and re-installing the cabinet - that's where the video comes in.
After watching the repair video on the website, I disconnected the water lines and power. Removed the two screws that secured the control panel, tilted the control panel back, disconnected the lid safety switch, pride out the clips that hold the housing to the back of the washer. I laid the washer on its back, removed the two clips that secure the pump and moved the pump out of the way, disconnected the electical connector from the motor, removed the the two screws from the motor clips, removed clips from the motor and removed the motor. The Direct Drive Coupling was easily accessable and easy to replace. I put it all back in reverse order. 30 minutes from start to finish.
laid the washer down and removed the two straps holding themoter to the gear case.Removed the motor then i removed the broken coupling installed the new one.easy as 1,2,3.
After taking out the agitator to see if the problem was there, we tipped the washer over and started diassembling the major pieces. It was easy to find the broken coupling between the motor and the transmission drive and fairly easy to get it out. The part was here in three days and is a better design than the original one because it has a metal sheathing inside the place where the old part broke. We had the washer up and running in about 30 minutes.
I actually didn't remove any of the panels. I tipped the washer at a 45 degree angle to the back and side to release the motor clamps, unhooked the power to the motor and removed the two drain pipes from the motor.Once I had all of that removed, I was able to pull the motor away from the transmission and put the new coupling pieces on. The hardest part was holding the motor up (it is fairly heavy and cumbersome to hold while the machine is tipped like that). The pieces didn't go on too easily either. It would have been ideal to have at least the front panel off to use a hammer more easily. I did manage to get it on using a socket and a hammer. With some light taps it went on.Next I put the hoses back on, the power, the bottom motor clamp, and then wrestled for another 30 minutes getting the top motor clamp on.The clamps are the metal like springs that hook into the transmission and then spring tighten the motor to the transmission. Then there is a little screw that holds it in place... Not easy to see from any angle, and that is where having the front panel off would be ideal.I've NEVER worked on a washer before and I accomplished this by myself in about 2 hours. I think if you are sure this is the problem, fix it yourself. Best 20 bucks and 2 hours I spent this month by saving a couple hundred on a new washer or repair person.
Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.
completely remove and disconnect pull out remove hoses from back drain hose move to where i had room to lay down on back (after i drained the full machine out) removed water pump and motor clips removed both uncliped wire harness from motor so i could sand off shafts etc replaced coupler with the new one which has a metal insert replaced parts and reinstalled. aligning coupler to motor and gear case takes a little extra work and luck put back in sevice
First I removed the center cover of the tub, then removed the bolt that was underneath it.I then tipped the washer back far enough that it wouldn't fall forward.Next I removed the two hoses connected to the motor/gearbox assembly.I then removed three bolts that hold the gearbox/motor assembly to the bottom of the tub and slid it down.The next step is to separate the gearbox from the motor. To do this I removed the spring clips that hold the water pump to the motor, and then the spring clips that hold the gearbox to the motor.The broken coupling between motor and the gearbox was then removed and replaced with the new one.Next, put every thing back together.
I am in my mid seventies and FORGOT where I filed the owners manual. As a result I had no clue of an exploded view or a parts list but decided to give it a try anyway.After laying the machine on its front, it was obvious that the coupling had failed.Parts Select had the part at my door in two days at a discounted price and the cost for shipping and handling was less than the cost for gas to get it from my closest local source.I cleaned the residue left from the old failed coupling with a wire brush and a bit of naptha.The removal of the entire assembly (motor, transmission and pump) was simple and required removing the two wires from the motor capacitor, Unpluging the multi pin connector from the motor and removing the three bolts that held the assembly to the tub frame. The pump came off the rear of the motor by releasing the two snap/spring connectors.I pried the old coupling off and tapped th new AND IMPROVEDcoupling on until it was flush with the end of the motor and trans shaft and reversed the procedure.I saved myself hundreds of dollars and my wife is happy!
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