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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the screws under the trim on either side of the control console then rolling the console back was able to remove front of washer. Laid washer on back and was able to get to motor pump and coupling. U Tube has very good video on how to.
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Watch the video! - it a huge help with getting to the coupling. Actual coupling repair is straightforward, but I needed to tap it on with a deep socket. Biggest problem for me was removing and re-installing the cabinet - that's where the video comes in.
After watching the repair video on the website, I disconnected the water lines and power. Removed the two screws that secured the control panel, tilted the control panel back, disconnected the lid safety switch, pride out the clips that hold the housing to the back of the washer. I laid the washer on its back, removed the two clips that secure the pump and moved the pump out of the way, disconnected the electical connector from the motor, removed the the two screws from the motor clips, removed clips from the motor and removed the motor. The Direct Drive Coupling was easily accessable and easy to replace. I put it all back in reverse order. 30 minutes from start to finish.
laid the washer down and removed the two straps holding themoter to the gear case.Removed the motor then i removed the broken coupling installed the new one.easy as 1,2,3.
After taking out the agitator to see if the problem was there, we tipped the washer over and started diassembling the major pieces. It was easy to find the broken coupling between the motor and the transmission drive and fairly easy to get it out. The part was here in three days and is a better design than the original one because it has a metal sheathing inside the place where the old part broke. We had the washer up and running in about 30 minutes.
I actually didn't remove any of the panels. I tipped the washer at a 45 degree angle to the back and side to release the motor clamps, unhooked the power to the motor and removed the two drain pipes from the motor.Once I had all of that removed, I was able to pull the motor away from the transmission and put the new coupling pieces on. The hardest part was holding the motor up (it is fairly heavy and cumbersome to hold while the machine is tipped like that). The pieces didn't go on too easily either. It would have been ideal to have at least the front panel off to use a hammer more easily. I did manage to get it on using a socket and a hammer. With some light taps it went on.Next I put the hoses back on, the power, the bottom motor clamp, and then wrestled for another 30 minutes getting the top motor clamp on.The clamps are the metal like springs that hook into the transmission and then spring tighten the motor to the transmission. Then there is a little screw that holds it in place... Not easy to see from any angle, and that is where having the front panel off would be ideal.I've NEVER worked on a washer before and I accomplished this by myself in about 2 hours. I think if you are sure this is the problem, fix it yourself. Best 20 bucks and 2 hours I spent this month by saving a couple hundred on a new washer or repair person.
Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.
completely remove and disconnect pull out remove hoses from back drain hose move to where i had room to lay down on back (after i drained the full machine out) removed water pump and motor clips removed both uncliped wire harness from motor so i could sand off shafts etc replaced coupler with the new one which has a metal insert replaced parts and reinstalled. aligning coupler to motor and gear case takes a little extra work and luck put back in sevice
First I removed the center cover of the tub, then removed the bolt that was underneath it.I then tipped the washer back far enough that it wouldn't fall forward.Next I removed the two hoses connected to the motor/gearbox assembly.I then removed three bolts that hold the gearbox/motor assembly to the bottom of the tub and slid it down.The next step is to separate the gearbox from the motor. To do this I removed the spring clips that hold the water pump to the motor, and then the spring clips that hold the gearbox to the motor.The broken coupling between motor and the gearbox was then removed and replaced with the new one.Next, put every thing back together.
I am in my mid seventies and FORGOT where I filed the owners manual. As a result I had no clue of an exploded view or a parts list but decided to give it a try anyway.After laying the machine on its front, it was obvious that the coupling had failed.Parts Select had the part at my door in two days at a discounted price and the cost for shipping and handling was less than the cost for gas to get it from my closest local source.I cleaned the residue left from the old failed coupling with a wire brush and a bit of naptha.The removal of the entire assembly (motor, transmission and pump) was simple and required removing the two wires from the motor capacitor, Unpluging the multi pin connector from the motor and removing the three bolts that held the assembly to the tub frame. The pump came off the rear of the motor by releasing the two snap/spring connectors.I pried the old coupling off and tapped th new AND IMPROVEDcoupling on until it was flush with the end of the motor and trans shaft and reversed the procedure.I saved myself hundreds of dollars and my wife is happy!
after draining washer, I put washer on back. I disconnected water pump, then rmoved motor coupling. Confirming the coupler was cracked, I simply removed ,replaced coupler, connected water pump and positioned washer. I thank this site for assisting me with the fix of my washer.
Just remove the covers, remove the electric drive motor. Replace the failed coupling with the improved design parts. Reinstall motor and covers. Tested OK. The new part will outlast the rest of the machine!
I moved the washing machine to the garage and while it was still on the dolly, I laid it down so that the underside of the machine was acessible. I then proceeded to remove the hoses from the pump and then removed the pump. This gave me acsess to the motor which I removed after removing the clip screws holding the clips on the motor. After removing the clips, the motor then came free allowing me to pry the remaining pieces of the coupling assembly loose from the shaft of the transmission and the motor. Reversing the procedure allowed me to complete the repair. Using a socket to tap the pieces of the coupling onto the shafts of the motor and the transmission made it easy to get them onto the shafts properly. By the way, I think that if the couplings were made of stainless steel rather than a composit plastic I would not have had to do the repair at all. The rubber center piece was not worn at all. I think that was poor engineering on the part of the designers. Gene Sinclair. Cedar Park Tx.
I read the other posts that described how to do the repair. There was tell tale black rubber shavings around the drive and motor area. All you have to do is remove the retaining clips that hold the water pump, remove the hoses(make sure to drain in bucket ect.), remove the wiring harness taking care to leave the capacitor lead intact if the washer has been run in the last 24 hrs to prevent a shock. Remove the two clips holding the motor in place. Remove the four bolts holding the motor base. The coupling is attached to the motor, use a screwdriver ect. to gently pry off the coupling. The old one will likely be round, the new part will be triangular. Same thing. Fit the platic pieces (2) one to the motor and the other to the drive with the rubber in the middle fitting into the allotted holes in the rubber. Reverse the procedure to finish. I saw there was a slightly lower price on a competitors web site by maybe 2.00 dollars. I went with this site because I received help like this I am giving you and want to reward these people for their ingenuity of having this type of forum for others. Please do the same. Doug
Tilt washer forward. Unbolt thingie (my HUSBAND did this, I just wash the clothes) and other thingie, install coupling, and re-bolt the thingies.:0) Viola ! We have CLEAN clothes again. I don't know WHAT I would do without PartSelect and my husband.Ordering was easy, shipping was fine (I ordered it Sat. night and it was here Wed. afternoon). Price seemed competitive. Overall a good experience (except for the week without the washing machine - handwashing clothes is HARD!!!)
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