Direct Drive Motor Coupling

First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

The video that was shown about how to perform the repair was spot on. I wasn't sure exactly what part I needed. I took the advise from you stating that these symptoms I described usually meant that the part I ordered was the correct repair In 65% of the cases. I was delighted to see that when I followed the instruction video, and the motor was removed, there was my coupling, In several pieces. At that point I knew that I ordered the correct parts.
Thank You,
Mario for Eastchester, NY.

I removed four srews holding the control panel and laid it to the side, then removed a screw holding the ground on and disconnected the electrical connection. The lid needs to be open to remove the switch. Just remove the switch and reverse sequence. To replace the coupling , I laid over the washer and removed two screws holding the straps connecting the motor to the transmission. After seperating, I pulled off old couplings and reinstalled the new ones on both the motor and transmission. I had to tap couplings on. Then reversed the installation and set backup and tried it out. It worked great.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

Disconnect power & water then drain hoses.
We flipped the washer on it's side to gain access to the bottom. There was no need to take off the back panel. Keep a 5 gallon bucket and a few rags handy for the extra water in the pump line.
Disconnected the wiring harness. Removed the brackets holding the motor. It's a little tight on the back bracket. It has a 1/4" hex nut on the back side, so I used a 1/4" drive socket (see: small). Removed the bolts holding the gear case (this makes it a lot easier). Disconnected the pump hose and rotated the motor & gear box and pulled forward. This gives you access to the coupling. Remove the broken part. Clean the area for debris. NOTE: each part of the coupling has 3 fingers (these are what breaks off), so check to make sure you get all broken parts. Insert the new coupling. It has 3 parts; the plastic fittings go on tight and need to be snug to the shaft. Use a screwdriver handle on the center and tap down with a small hammer. Spray silicone on the rubber coupler to allow a little better slide.
Reverse the process. Line the gear box and motor up and push back into the tub assembly. We used 2 people to do this. It's easier to have someone stand over it and hold / rotate the gear box while the other one can align the motor & bolt everything back on.
It took us an hour, however, if you were doing a couple you could get it down to 30 min. flat.
Go wash your clothes!

Woulkd have taken alot less time had I not taken off the control board, back...etc. Laying the unit on its back is perfect. Took it out into the garage when I could have done it in the laundry rooom with very little water loss.
1. Removed all hoses connected to top of motor. This was not very easy since the spring clamps had been in the same place for 20+ years. Also removed all wire harness connected to and from the motor.
2. Removed metal clamps from top of motor unit, and removed the plastic "valve".
3. Removed screws holding in clamps on each side of the motor used to hold motor on motor plate. Removed motor. Trick is to make sure that the back clamp stays in place...makes it a little easier when you go to re install.
4. Cleaned out around agitator shaft, and fitted one side of the coupling and the neoprene type joiner on to the agitator shaft.
5. Fitted other side of coupling on to motor...This is where it got a little tough......and then placed motor unit on the motor plate, making sure to line up teeth to neoprene joiner.
6. Replaced clamps on each side of the motor and screwed in nuts holding them in place.
7. Replaced plastic "valve" and the clamps that hold it in placed...back one is a little tough.
8. Reattached hoses to "valve" and hooked all wire harness back into place.
9.Tested perfect...little burning smell on first spin....but works great now!!

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

We ordered both the motor coupling and the clutch assembly based on our troubleshooting, and because we figured both parts were inexpensive enough we might as well have them both. We initially thought it was the clutch assembly, but as we were taking the washing machine apart, we noticed that actually one of the bolts was missing completely and one had snapped in two. We then realized that the spin cycle problem was actually related to the instability of the motor because of the missing/broken bolts (they didn't even have washers!). All we had to do was replace the bolts and use a bolt extractor to get the broken bolt out, but we went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly as well for good measure. Everything ran perfectly after that! I was very skeptical to do the repair myself, but it really is easy, as long as you have someone with muscle to help out. You can also look up videos online that show you a step by step repair process for the clutch assembly, and I would highly recommend doing that so that you have a visual. It will make everything seem 100x easier.

snapped off the 2 springs on the water pump,took off hoses with pliers,took off the 2 little screws on the motor springs.snapped off the 2 springs on the motor,and the motor came off.took out the drive coupling,it just slides off...then reverse the procedure,and you are done...

HELLO THE INSTALLATION WAS REAL SIMPLE I FIRST UPLUG MACHINE FROM WALL I TURN OFF ALL WATER LEADING TO IN TO THE MACHINE I THEN TIP MACHINE ON IT SIDE I THEN TOOK LOOSE ALL WIRING LEADING TO THE MOTOR THEN MOTOR IS HELD UP WITH 3 SCREWS AND 2 BANDS THAT HOLD IT IN PLACE I REINSTALL THE NEW MOTOR COUPLING INSERT THE WIRES AND TURN BACK ON THE WATER LEADING TO MACHINE THEN PLUG MACHINE BACK IN, EVERY THING WAS GOOD TO GO.... SAVE A LOT OF MONEY DOING IT MY SELF SO SIMPLE TO DO....

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!