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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
unhook washer lay it on it's back and remove the two 1/4" nuts securing the holding straps on the motor. Seperate the motor from transmission and slip in new coupling. Reverse previous steps to reassemble. Note: remove all rubber dust from the motor so that it doesn't smoke when the motor heats up.
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1st I took the brackets then water pump off. Then I unscrewed the brackets and took off the motor. Under the motor the coupling just slide off.
Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad. so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis
Unplugged power cord and disconnected the water hoses. Removed screws holding timer and switch unplugging wires to safeties to durm cover. Unsnapped clips holding the cover to frame back and then removed the cover tipping it forward. Removed pump by unsnapping the clips holding it to the motor and then removed motor by taking screws out and then unsnapping the clips. Removed broken coupling halves from both motor and transmission. This took maybe 30 minutes. Installed new coupling by driving onto shafts of transmission and motor with hammer and screwdriver used backwards. Attached motor after aligning coupling halves. Screw clips into place and then replaced pump and clips holding it. Turned motor by hand to make sure everything rotated properly. This took maybe 45 minutes. The rest of the time was spent trying to get the cover to line up on the base tabs. Was not able to get this done so ended up getting one side to fit and the other side I used self tapping screws to fasten the cover to the frame. Of course doing this after 2 hours of trying to keep the cover in line with the tabs trying to hook the clips at the top. With the screws holding the cover to the base no problem of getting the clips in place at the top and then mounting the electrial/electronics to the top. Finished by hooking up the hoses and plugging in the power cord and then testing everything out and all work great and noticed less noise coming from the machine than in the past. The cover engineering leaves something to be desired.
Unplugged all electrical connectors, removed gear case & motor as one, separated motor from gearcase, replaced coupler, reinstall, was alot easier than it looks, only thing now is it has a clicking noise when spinning, works fine, will wait for something to break and find out what clicking noise is.
Rested washer against wall so I had access to the motor/gearbox on the bottom. Unclipped motor and starter assembly - removed old coupling and spider, installed new ones and reassembled. The hardest time I had was getting the clips off - I have big hands and little patience. All in all, rather simple, but can be time consuming for what it is.
First, I removed washer housing by unscrewing top left and right screws of the housing and then flipping the timer up to expose the housing clips. Using a flat head screw driver, pry up the clips and pull up and forward and the whole housing comes off. Find the motor near the floor. Use a screw driver to unhook clips to the hose box. Pull the hose box out of the way. Use a nut driver to unscrew the screws that hold the motor clips in place. Pry the motor clips off and pull off the electrical clips to the motor and capacitor. The motor will then easily come out. Pry the broken coupling off of the motor and the tranmission. Attach the new couplings to where the old ones were. I had smack the couplings on with a hammer and a wrench extender that was slightly larger than the shafts that the couplings fit over. You must then place the rubber piece of the coupling onto to prongs on the transmission side and then line up the prongs fron the motor side. I had to rotate the motor slightly to get them to line up properly. Push the motor back into place. Re-attach the motor clips. Tighten down the clip screws. Re-attach the wires to the motor.Re-attach the hose cover and clips. Reverse the process of pulling off the housing (a bit tricky) and you are done.
You diagnosed the problem correctly, I ordered the parts, they arrived in two days, and if I had removed the cabinet as I found out I should have, after the fact, it would have been easy. My biggest problem was in the process to remove the cabinet to access the part. I should have read how to do that prior to starting. All is well now.
unpluged machine, unscrewed top (with controls)removed 2 clamp/springs below the controls top. Leaned the body of the machine forward, and off floor frame. removed water pump and clamps, and then unbolted the motor (two bolts).Removed plastic (3piece) motor coupling by prying it off with the claw end of a hammer. using a sparkplug socket, I tapped the new couplings on the motor shaft and transmission shaft. Holding the motor up while aligning the coupling was the hardest part. Installed. Reverse removal and it is back together and running smoothly. I did have some water come out of the pump when I removed it. Have some towels ready.
I followed the help video from your Partselect site with two slight variations. After prying the agitator cap off, I used snip-nose plier to twist the inner component that housed the dog leg clips. The screws that attach the top control panel are on the front of my machine under plastic corner covers. The only difficulty I had was putting one of the pressure clamps back into position that attaches the back/top control panel to the machine. Easily a 40 minute task for me, thanks to your help video I saved on the cost of a new washing machine and aquired another skill.
Started taking machine apart, would of been easier if I had looked at the online diagrams first, but dismantled enough to find a few broken parts, I could not tell the coupling was broke till I actually removed the water pump and motor. Total cost for 3 plastic parts was less than $25 including shipping. Received parts in 3 days on standard lowest cost shipping. Put machine back together, with just a few extra screws and wire clips, but machine works like new now. Much better than the cost of new or used washer.
I followed the repair video's instructions! It was really easy,just being able to know what you were getting into was a lot less stressful!
I did the repair largely according to the instructions in the video for the coupling. One significant issue made this much worse than it should have been. The coupling didn't just slide onto the shafts on either the motor or gear side. I tried putting them on as best as i could and put it all back together. I did a test run of the agitation and spin with the washer empty and, when that went well, attempted a full load. During the full load test I started hearing a high-pitched squeal that varied in intensity. I let it keep running for a couple minutes to see if it would settle in, but then smoke started coming out from the machine! I pulled the plug, removed the clothes, vacuumed out the full tub and took the machine apart again. The motor was very hot but the gears, coupler, etc all seemed to be in order. I went back online and watched the video again to see if I'd missed a step (I hadn't). I watched another video from a different website and got an important tip -- use a spark plug socket and hammer the coupler onto each shaft so the shaft is flush with the metal part of the coupler.After doing this, I put it all back together again and very tentatively ran a test load and then several full loads and everything seems to be fine.If I'd had that tidbit at the start, this would have been a 20 minute easy repair.
If handy is at one end of the spectrum, I'm at the other. When the washer stopped spinning, I started checking prices. Then my kid sister [pushing 50] asked if I had checked in with Dr. Google re the problem. I said, well, no, and so consulted with the good Dr. G, plugging in model number. Up popped a chat room of some kind discussing my exact model, and my exact problem - motor humming, no spin in any cycle - and opining on one side of the conversation, it's the motor coupler, and giving the part number! I then plugged found Part Select, plugged in the part number, and ... there was the part, along with a video. Please give my best to Mr. Steve - The Man in my view - and the guitarist for the soothing melody. I watched Steve - "pretty simple really" - a dozen times or more, and felt ready when the part arrived UPS. Steve was working with a new machine. I wasn't. So, from WD 40 for help with removal of hoses, to struggling with clips frozen in place, it all took more work. But when I removed the motor, beheld a beautiful sight ... coupler broken in two! I replaced it, struggled for a while aligning things, then retraced steps, secured everything. Then the moment of truth, the spin cycle, and ... hummin' baby! Thank you to all concerned. Oh, the total cost of this repair: @ $30, including UPS and cost of the quarter inch nut driver I did not have in my raggedy kit bag. A less not-so-handy, John Racin
Used a hand truck to lay washer on its side removed motor assembly and hoses,unplugged all wiring harness assembly. Using small hammer positioned new couplings on transmission and motor flush to end of shaft. Applied new insert on transmission coupling and positioned motor applied mount straps and screws. Reconnect wiring harness assemblies set upright and dry run cycle. Everything good washed 3 loads very happy no laundry mat visit.
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