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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I moved the washer to an open area and tipped it over on it's back supported at about 30 degrees to floor to protect the drain hose connection near the bottom of the washer. I used a stack of old blankets in several folds to support the raised end of the washer on the upper back surface.I then disconnected the 2 hoses to the drain pump attached to the bottom of the motor, and removed the electrical connector from the motor and a capacitor on the side of the motor. I removed 2 screws, one from each retainer holding the motor/pump assembly to the motor mounting plate on the gearcase assembly. I used a screw driver to pry the retainers from their detent on the motor housing and then removed the motor/pump assembly, thus exposing the broken coupling. After removing the broken drive coupling, I installed the new one and then reassembled all the parts removed in reverse order. Note that the new coupling was a tighter fit on the motor shaft and gearcase assembly input shaft, and had to be driven on using a hammer and a short piece of 3/4" doweling. Hammering on the wood doweling protected the new coupling from damage during installation. The original and worn/broken coupling assembly was easily removed by hand, without tools.
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lt7000xv - washer/dryer stackremoved the center panel between the dryer and washer. unplugged the machineremoved the two clips to release the top/lid. slid the top/lid assembly offremoved the small metal stability corner cross piece. removed the top two screws of the front panellifted the front panel up and away (if it feels stuck, just put some muscle into it) unplugged the wiring harness from the motorremoved the two big bolts at the bottom front that secure the tub in placeto be able to pull the tub out... reached behind and to the right to remove the pressure hosereleased the wiring from the tub released the drain hose from its clippulled out the tub far enough so i could work on the motor. on the motor, unscrewed and removed the two clips (top/bottom) to gain access to the coupling.replaced old with new. i thought lining everything up so i could slip the motor back on would be difficult since its tough to see where the teeth on the coupling are going, but it was kind to me and fit into place on the first try.
Actually a pretty easy repair.Unbolted the agitator assembly. Turned the washer on its side, unbolted the motor assemblyremoved it and easily replaced the clutch and drive coupler. The coupler was not worn but I figured I'd just do it while I had it apart.
removed the bolt inside the agitator, flip machine remove the three bolts holding the transmission to the machine, remove the drive assemblie from machine.Replaced clutch, pump and motor coupling at the same time.reassemble drive unit into washer, job done.washer is happy, wife is happy and i'm back to my couch !!!!!!!
I gust followed the stories from the other readers and found the problem ordered the part ( only took 3 days ) and read how to repair.15 min later it was up and going !!!My thanks to your readers and your site.Ron H
I followed your remarkable and detailed installation video and read comments from other readers and have to tell you could not have done it without you.After a few steps I removed the motor and the direct drive coupling was broken on one end just like it was suggested.I ordered it from you(delivered in 1 day)replaced it and put back together and that's it. It was that easy. This is a GREAT web site and plan on coming back often, THANKS AGAIN!
remove the bottom screw the holds the plate for the motor then remove the broken coupler and install the new one;everything can be done from the bottom of the machine,no need for removing any cover
Tiped it on the front. Unbolted the gearbox from the frame. Unbolted the motor and held it back with a bunge cord. She wanted a new washer but I thought otherwise!
The motor disconnects by 2 clips, but before I decided to Make repairs I disassembled the transmission to make sure all was ok. Since everything was good, I ordered the faulty part replacement . Three days later when the part arrived ,assembly only took 15 to 20 minutes.
Removed the back panel and cabinet. Removed the pump and separated the gear box and motor. Replaced coupler, reassembled. Lid switch removed/replaced very easy, as was lid screw.
Washer not rotating, removed the control head and back cover. Then removed body housing around tube to get to the bottom. had to replace coupling on motor then removed the agitator tower and replaced the Parts for the tower agitator. unit is 16 years young and still looks and runs new, put a total of 55 dollars into repair and it should be good for a long time. This is with a family of five. Washing 2 loads everyday.
Tip the machine against the wall. Remove two screws that hold the motor clips in place. Pull the motor off the frame. Pry the coupling off the motor and the gearbox, install the new coupling and reistall the motor.
First I unpluged the electric plug, disconnected the hoses and laid the washer on it's side for easy access. I then removed the motor wiring harness and the pump hoses. I then supported the drum with wood blocks and then removed the mortor mounting straps. Pulled the notor out and removed the old coupling. After installing the new coupling I reinstalled every thing in reverse order.
took the frame off washer was full of water drained as much as i could took washer frame off leaned washer back got water every where cleaned up water put on new parts put back together works fine now hardest part was getting washer cover back on frame
First I turned washer on its side. I removed clamps on hoses that connect to water pump.Then I removed hoses and clips that hold water pump. I moved water pump to side and removed clip retaining screws. Took screwdriver and pryed clips from motor. Removed motor. Pryed old coupler off motor then pryed old coupler off transmission. Took a drift and hammer and drove coupler half on motor then drove other half on transmission. Put rubber coupler middle on transmission coupler. Installed motor on transmission, put clips back on motor and retaining screws. Installed water pump and retaining clips. Put hoses back on water pump. You cant see clip retaining screws you have to feel around for them.
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