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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unpluged washer. Turned washer on its side, unpluged wire harness to motor. Removed hoses to pump on motor, removed screws and nuts holding motor, then pulled out motor. Popped off old couplings,intalled new, reassembled. Piece of cake!
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i had to strip the outer housing of the wahing machine apart the remove the motoe from the transmission to get to the coupling. once i recived the coupling( which was very quickly) i just reversed those steps.
Unplug power cord. Turn off hot and cold water to washer. Disconnect water lines at the back of the washer, but mark which is hot and cold on the hoses . Remove drain hose from the sink tub or sewer line but keep it elevated so the water don't run out. Tip over on the backside but put something under the back side like a tool box to keep the top elevated a little bit, but not on the control panel just below it. Now remove the two screws that are in the motor retainer. Now pry motor retainers loose then lift out motor and remove old coupling. Now install new coupling. If it is a little tight on the shaft, use a deep socket a little bigger than the shaft to tap them on. Line up coupling while putting motor in place. Then snap on motor retainers. Look at the coupler make sure it is straight and not s shape. If it is s shape, remove and tap coupler on shaft a little more. If it is straight then reinstall the two screws you removed in the beginning from the motor retainers. Hook up drain line, water lines hot to hot, cold to cold. Then check for leaks on water lines. Plug in ,turn on, if it sounds ok. Don"t stand there, wash something.
I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.
After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.
First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.
First I removed the housing to gain access to the water pump. Upon removal of the clamps holding the rubber hoses, I used a shallow pan to collect the water in the system (2-3 cups). Next, a flat tip screw driver was used to pry off the water pump retainer clips, such action permits the pump to be easily withdrawn from the motor shaft. Prior to my parts purchase, I had noticed rubber particles below the transmission which was due to a worn motor coupling. My second service step was to use a socket wrench to loosen the motor retaining clips for motor removal. The coupling was replaced, although the plastic driven "gears" were left in place and not replaced given they were observed in good condition and not easily removed with hand tools. After coupling installation to the transmission, the motor drive was aligned to engage the coupling. Alignment pins for the motor helped with such alignment. The motor retention clips were reinstalled and tightened - important to check the overall alignment here. Next, the rubber hoses to the pump were connected to make the final assembly step back to motor easy. Last the pump was resecured with the clips. The agitator was repaired by removal of the softener dispenser - pulling and twisting up. Next a deep well socket was used to remove the agitator bolt. The agitator was lifted off easily. Finally, using the instructions provided a new thrust washer was installed, the agitator cam and cam dogs were installed followed by reassembly of the agitator. The agitator bolt was installed and tightened. The cover plate residing inside the softener dispenser was reinstalled, followed by the softener dispenser itself. The new parts are all now installed....last reassemble the outer housing to the washer...everything works great now.
After calling repair services locally and getting outrageous estimates, just to come and see and telling it will cost at least upwards of $ 150.00, decided to look at fixing it myself. Did not want to buy a new unit, as we are building a new house and wanted time to evaluate a new pair later next year. I wanted to put this unit in the garage of the new house, Partselect site was very informative with the symptoms of the problem and required parts and the best feature was the "how to videos". Watched the videos twice and decided I will give it a try. Ordered the parts, which came promptly despite the Thanksgiving holidays (I had to just handwash some essential clothes only once). Watched the videos again and replaced the cam dogs, which we're completely worn out and in pieces. Next replaced the motor couplings. Had a hard time putting back the washer cover, as I had to jiggle it to align. Washer Works like a charm. Saved $$. Partselect should consider bundling the agitator grease with cam dogs. Did not use any grease as I had none. Overall great satisfaction. Thanks.
unplug, Tilt back washer, remove motor clips with screwdriver,remove drive clips with screwdriver,remover old 3 piece coupler, tap new couplers on with hammer, then replace drive and motor.10 minunte repair.Watch a video here but there is no need to remove the cover or the hoses.
Watched Youtube video, was similar except screws for topside control panel were in rear. Disasemble was simple and fast. Reassemble was a little tricky as I could only get one clip back on the motor and then the other was not reaching. I had my daughter tilt the washer back so the motor wasn't hanging down and it went together. Washer now runs like new, nice to know that I only had to pay for the part and saved myself $100 bucks! Thanks!
Removed the screws under the trim on either side of the control console then rolling the console back was able to remove front of washer. Laid washer on back and was able to get to motor pump and coupling. U Tube has very good video on how to.
Watch the video! - it a huge help with getting to the coupling. Actual coupling repair is straightforward, but I needed to tap it on with a deep socket. Biggest problem for me was removing and re-installing the cabinet - that's where the video comes in.
After watching the repair video on the website, I disconnected the water lines and power. Removed the two screws that secured the control panel, tilted the control panel back, disconnected the lid safety switch, pride out the clips that hold the housing to the back of the washer. I laid the washer on its back, removed the two clips that secure the pump and moved the pump out of the way, disconnected the electical connector from the motor, removed the the two screws from the motor clips, removed clips from the motor and removed the motor. The Direct Drive Coupling was easily accessable and easy to replace. I put it all back in reverse order. 30 minutes from start to finish.
laid the washer down and removed the two straps holding themoter to the gear case.Removed the motor then i removed the broken coupling installed the new one.easy as 1,2,3.
After taking out the agitator to see if the problem was there, we tipped the washer over and started diassembling the major pieces. It was easy to find the broken coupling between the motor and the transmission drive and fairly easy to get it out. The part was here in three days and is a better design than the original one because it has a metal sheathing inside the place where the old part broke. We had the washer up and running in about 30 minutes.
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