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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Unplug washer. Place large old towel in floor at rear of washer. Turn off and disconnect water supply lines and allow to drip dry. Place towel in floor in front of washer. Tip washer forward onto face of washer. Unplug wiring clip connector from drive motor. Remove 2 1/4 inch head screws from spring clips on bottom of motor housing. Slowly rotate clips out of the was to drop motor. Knoch top coupling piece off agitator shaft with screwdriver and light hammer. replace coupling with 5/8 deep well socket as a driver which will fit the metal insert in the coupling and not interfere with the shaft. then drive the other coupling onto the motor shaft using light hammer and drive socket(5/8) deep well. place the rubber shock connector onto the agitator drive piece then slide the motor back into the mount position. rotate the clips vback into place. tighten 1/4 head screws in clips re-attach the wiring harness tip the washer back up onto "feet" re-attach water supply lines tighten appropriately. Plug unit into receptacle and enjoy....
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Unpluged washer. Turned washer on its side, unpluged wire harness to motor. Removed hoses to pump on motor, removed screws and nuts holding motor, then pulled out motor. Popped off old couplings,intalled new, reassembled. Piece of cake!
I removed four srews holding the control panel and laid it to the side, then removed a screw holding the ground on and disconnected the electrical connection. The lid needs to be open to remove the switch. Just remove the switch and reverse sequence. To replace the coupling , I laid over the washer and removed two screws holding the straps connecting the motor to the transmission. After seperating, I pulled off old couplings and reinstalled the new ones on both the motor and transmission. I had to tap couplings on. Then reversed the installation and set backup and tried it out. It worked great.
i had to strip the outer housing of the wahing machine apart the remove the motoe from the transmission to get to the coupling. once i recived the coupling( which was very quickly) i just reversed those steps.
Unplug power cord. Turn off hot and cold water to washer. Disconnect water lines at the back of the washer, but mark which is hot and cold on the hoses . Remove drain hose from the sink tub or sewer line but keep it elevated so the water don't run out. Tip over on the backside but put something under the back side like a tool box to keep the top elevated a little bit, but not on the control panel just below it. Now remove the two screws that are in the motor retainer. Now pry motor retainers loose then lift out motor and remove old coupling. Now install new coupling. If it is a little tight on the shaft, use a deep socket a little bigger than the shaft to tap them on. Line up coupling while putting motor in place. Then snap on motor retainers. Look at the coupler make sure it is straight and not s shape. If it is s shape, remove and tap coupler on shaft a little more. If it is straight then reinstall the two screws you removed in the beginning from the motor retainers. Hook up drain line, water lines hot to hot, cold to cold. Then check for leaks on water lines. Plug in ,turn on, if it sounds ok. Don"t stand there, wash something.
I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.
After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.
First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.
First I removed the housing to gain access to the water pump. Upon removal of the clamps holding the rubber hoses, I used a shallow pan to collect the water in the system (2-3 cups). Next, a flat tip screw driver was used to pry off the water pump retainer clips, such action permits the pump to be easily withdrawn from the motor shaft. Prior to my parts purchase, I had noticed rubber particles below the transmission which was due to a worn motor coupling. My second service step was to use a socket wrench to loosen the motor retaining clips for motor removal. The coupling was replaced, although the plastic driven "gears" were left in place and not replaced given they were observed in good condition and not easily removed with hand tools. After coupling installation to the transmission, the motor drive was aligned to engage the coupling. Alignment pins for the motor helped with such alignment. The motor retention clips were reinstalled and tightened - important to check the overall alignment here. Next, the rubber hoses to the pump were connected to make the final assembly step back to motor easy. Last the pump was resecured with the clips. The agitator was repaired by removal of the softener dispenser - pulling and twisting up. Next a deep well socket was used to remove the agitator bolt. The agitator was lifted off easily. Finally, using the instructions provided a new thrust washer was installed, the agitator cam and cam dogs were installed followed by reassembly of the agitator. The agitator bolt was installed and tightened. The cover plate residing inside the softener dispenser was reinstalled, followed by the softener dispenser itself. The new parts are all now installed....last reassemble the outer housing to the washer...everything works great now.
Each part has a very good video about the procedure to fix the problem , just follow it and you will be good .
Looked for part, found this site looked at repair video on the website, look fairly easy, ordered the part, and now its fixed.Thank you
I installed both a new clutch and direct drive assembly, put it all back together, turned it on and had the same initial problem. I purchased and installed a new gearcase (transmission) and it runs like a new machine. I also purchased a spanner wrench made by Supco, but never had to use it. Will save it for future repairs. There is no greater satisfaction or glory than fixing something yourself! A lot cheaper too!!!
Watch the video as provided bythis site! Really, I could have fumbled through it myself and likely would have eventually gotten it. However, after figuring out what roughly might be the problem by turning the washer over and looking at the broken coupling -watching the video defined a completely different, and much shorter repair than I likely would have put myself through. -Additions to the video are the use of a rust penetrant like liquid wrench on the coupling, a lot more prying to get the coupling off the motor shaft, and a folded up towel to absorb water when you lay the washer on it's back. For me this was a good time to clean inside the tops of the washer basket, and the surrounding tub with a longer bottle brush and some other stuff that fit the limited space. If you disconnect the drain connection from the pump at the bottom, and turn the washer upright over a floor drain, you can rinse/scrub the space all you want. If hadn't watched a different related video, I probably would have attempted to remove the tub, but you need a tool that I don't have. -big time saver!
Relaxed and Clutch assembly. Also replaced coupler while I had motor and driveshaft out. About a a one hour fix. Works perfect now.
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