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PartSelect Number PS1485646
This coupling kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no belt. This is the newer version and is made with new metal sleeves for added strength.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Washer not rotating, removed the control head and back cover. Then removed body housing around tube to get to the bottom. had to replace coupling on motor then removed the agitator tower and replaced the Parts for the tower agitator. unit is 16 years young and still looks and runs new, put a total of 55 dollars into repair and it should be good for a long time. This is with a family of five. Washing 2 loads everyday.
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Tip the machine against the wall. Remove two screws that hold the motor clips in place. Pull the motor off the frame. Pry the coupling off the motor and the gearbox, install the new coupling and reistall the motor.
First I unpluged the electric plug, disconnected the hoses and laid the washer on it's side for easy access. I then removed the motor wiring harness and the pump hoses. I then supported the drum with wood blocks and then removed the mortor mounting straps. Pulled the notor out and removed the old coupling. After installing the new coupling I reinstalled every thing in reverse order.
took the frame off washer was full of water drained as much as i could took washer frame off leaned washer back got water every where cleaned up water put on new parts put back together works fine now hardest part was getting washer cover back on frame
First I turned washer on its side. I removed clamps on hoses that connect to water pump.Then I removed hoses and clips that hold water pump. I moved water pump to side and removed clip retaining screws. Took screwdriver and pryed clips from motor. Removed motor. Pryed old coupler off motor then pryed old coupler off transmission. Took a drift and hammer and drove coupler half on motor then drove other half on transmission. Put rubber coupler middle on transmission coupler. Installed motor on transmission, put clips back on motor and retaining screws. Installed water pump and retaining clips. Put hoses back on water pump. You cant see clip retaining screws you have to feel around for them.
Disconnect electrical, took out agttator, tipped machine againest the wall. On hooked the two hoses on pump, removed three bolts pulled complete assembley out removed worn parts and installed new parts and reassembled. Works like new,
Coupling bad. Turned washer upside down, removed hoses from pump on back of motor, removed two leads from the capacitor, removed the wiring clip from the motor. Pulled the two clips from the pump and removed. Unscrewed screws in the two clips and removed from motor. Pulled motor, removed bad coupling, removed a cover plate that had two screws. Installed coupling, lined up motor & coupling and reversed the uninstall procedure. Washer now works great!!
First confirmed it wasn't the lid switch by jumping. Then confirmed by taking off washer cover that the transmission was leaking and spraying oil as evidenced by yellow oil film on the inside of the washer cover. The leaking oil caused the clutch assembly to slip and wear. Replaced both the clutch assembly and the transmission upper two seals.To repair, after taking the washer cover off removed the agitator holding screw. Then remove two clips holding water pump. Unconnect the motor wires and remove two clips holding motor in place. Tilte washer back leaning up on a chair and remove 3 bolts holding transmission assy in place. Slid out the transmission/ shaft from machine.I rebuilt the transmission by separating the case on bench and replacing two seals. To do this you first need to remove clutch assembly from the trans agitator shaft. The clutch is held on by a washer and two spring clips. You need to take note of the orientation of the parts for proper reassembly. The difficult part was separating the cover of the transmission from the base . After removal of the cover screws using a putty knife and hammer I gently tapped all around to separate the halves. The I replaced the two upper seals, one one the cover and one in the output shaft. The second difficult part that requires some skill is removing the seal from the transmission cover. I used a hair dryer to heat up the aluminum cover to ease removal of the seal. After replacement of the seals I resealed the cover onto the base using automotive silicone gasket maker. Note; I kept the transmission level during this repair so that I did not need to drain oil. After keeping the transmission level and allowing 24 hours for the silicon to cure I assembled the new clutch assembly and clips in reverse order on transmission shaft. Then reassembled the transmission, motor and pump in reverse order. Ran machine with full load of towels. Spin problem fixed and transmission is still leak free a week later.
took off back and sides to the washer. laid the washer on it's back and removed worn and broken parts. replaced these parts and put everything back together. The top part of the agitator hasn't worked in a while, while we had it apart we also replaced the clogs. The washer works better than it has in a long time. Spins a lot more water from the clothes which makes drying faster. I would surely do this again. A lot cheaper than a new washer.
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