Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly

I followed they instructions from the other "do it your selfers" but only replaced the solenoid. This was the cause. Rust was keeping solenoid plunger from moving and this held the flapper door open. Very easy to repair!

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

Replaced rusted solenoid.

Popped front button panel off from the bottom using flat head screwdriver; Removed 4 screws holding electronics board and disconnected wires. Unscrewed 3 phillips head screws on old solenoid and replaced with new part. Reconnected wires to board, screwed back in, and pushed panel back into to place.

Thumbs up to PartSelect - fast, straightforward service and fast delivery.

I removed the door cover plate and disconnected the circuit board, then four screws. The part was corroded in place. Upon removing three screws and cleaning the surface, the new part was an exact fit, replaced it and everything works like new.

I followed the instructions on a posted desctiption. It workded perfectly. Replacing the inner door panel was not as difficult as described. Just start the process with the screws in the middle of the door. Those two screw holes were not slots. All of the remaining screw holes had slots. I installed all of the door screws before tightening any. I workded right the first time.

removed the control panel ,using a paper clip, removed five screws, disconected wire connector, and removed the solenoid. reversed procedure to reassemble. ordered the part one day and received it the next day. Thank you for the prompt response.

repair was easy, just removed control panel and removed screws from solenoid, switched out with new, was done in minutes

1. Remove outside panel (snaps off)
2. Remove Control panel 4 screws
3. Remove Solenoid by taking out 2 bottom screws
4. Remove solenoid weight from crank lever
5. Place new solenoid weight from crank lever
6. Insert weight in solenoid
7. Place back 2 bottom screws solenoid
8. Place back Control panel screws
9. Snap back into place outside panel

I read instructions in all of the other repair stories everything went smooth no problems. Went and examined freezer door too see which type of door I had front or rear access. Popped off front LED panel, unpluged wires, removed 4 screws holding ice chute, removed 3 screws holding solenoid, slipped off solenoid pin, replaced all items in reverse order. This is one great site.

Fairly simple fix. You must first uplug refrigerator, then take off the inside freeze door panel, approx. 25 screws. Then you must take out the trap door assembly approx. 6 six screws. Pop off the LED panel, requires the use of a flat blade screw driver to pop it off. Remove solenold by removing 3 screws, replace with new solenold.

Took about fifteen mins. to remove the three screws and slip out the solenoid and replace it. Only one electrical connection. Super easy to do. Unfortunately this did nothing to solve the problem. I still have no water. Nor did replacing the switch or the water valve solve the problem. I guess I'm done.

I searched the site, found the part - solenoid, watched the "how to" video and the repair was a snap. Saved myself tons of money versus having a repair person come over. I do have an older model and needed to prop the front cover panel off with a screwdriver (just under the covering) saw this on a posting from another individual, thanks for the heads up.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.