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PartSelect Number PS11759800
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Unplugged refrigerator 2. Removed rear silver stainless steel panel on the right rear side of the refrigerator (if you are standing in front of the unit) using a small socket set. The panel is vertically located in center at the rear of the refrigerator.4. Removed plastic cover over the HV controller board. 5. Unplugged 4 molex connectors attached to the board and carefully pushed on the plastic release locks that hold the board in place as not to break them and removed the HV controller board.6. Inerted the new HV controller board and plugged in the molex connectors. All molex connectors are of unique size and will only attach to the HV controller board in one location.7. Replaced plastic cover over HV controller board and attached stainless steel panel with a small socket set.8. Plugged in the refrigerator.9. Identified programming code inside the refrigerator.10. Followed included instructions to enter program code to activate refrigerator front panel.
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First remove the front door panel by lifting out the catch tray at bottom. Then the 2 screws it covered. Carefully pry around edges to lift the panel away from the door. Disconnect the small wire harness from the back. There are only three, you'll get it. This will stop the lights and door malfunction. Now you can wait the 10 weeks it takes to get the HV board. Your fridge will still operate, even make ice. It just won't deliver ice or water through the door. When you recieve the HV board, unplug the fridge from the wall outlet. Remove the metal plate on the back of the fridge. This is held on by four screws. A 1/4 in nut driver is perfect. Then remove the clear plastic door covering the HV board. Pry it off with a screwdriver. Next, disconnect all of the wire harnesses by squeezing the release tabs and just pulling apart. You'll see how the board is held to the fridge. Push to one side while pulling on the other. It comes off easily. Put the new one on re-connect the harnesses, cover with both plates. Plug back into the wall. Go to the front. Re-connect the small harness to the display board and fasten back to the fridge. Funtime. Re programming. Follow instructions that came with the new board. It's fairly easy. What they don't tell you is that this process is done with both top doors open. I took the old board to a friend. (Electronic wiz) He found 2 overheated capacitors. Replaced them for about $1.50. I now have a spare. I think these capacitors overheat trying to run the ice conveyor. It sometimes gets stuck. Keep it clear, you shouldn't have this problem. Bad design. $2500 unit 3 1/2 years old needs a $200 part? And I fixed it myself. Think what 2 service calls would cost. And why aren't the boards readily available? The manufacturer MUST know there is a need. Good luck.
I firts pulled the refrigerator away from the wall. Un plugged it and removed a metal cover off of the back of the fridge. A clear plastic container was behind the metal pael. Removed the connectors and snapped the pld board out, Put in the new one and reinstalled the cover. Had to get the code number from theinside of the frifge and entered it into the front key pad. This step took a bit of figuring to advance the numbers using the key pad but with some trial and error...Repair done.
After the repairman came and was going to charge me 500.00 to fix, I got on the net and found this site. Located the issue, part, and ordered it. The only trouble I had was locating the board in the fridge? It's right in the back behind the metal door, duh. Unplug each wire harness, pull board out and replace the board and plug harnesses back in. Took under 5 minutes from start to finish. It took longer to program it, after two tries I re-read the program instructions sent with the board and presto it works perfectly!!! A Big thanks to part select.com. ps if the fridge is cooling correctly you can take the top left cover off unplug the harness there and get a few days worth of cool out of it before it goes out completely but I would suggest the overnight ship if you are already dead, 24 bucks is a small price to pay to be up and running within 24 hours.
Maytag Ice2-0 French Door refrigeratorOur refrigerator started slamming the icemaker door open and shut one evening. Investigation of the card behind the icemaker control panel (the LV control card) on the left-hand door revealed that the +12 volt supply that the card receives via J1 pin 3 was running at about 7 volts. As part of this investigation, I found that a wiring diagram for the fridge is in a sticky envelope behind the kickplate/grill at the bottom front of the 'fridge.I was confused for a while because the +12 volt supply is floating, so measurements against the 'fridge frame gave very strange results. When I figured that one out, I got consistent results by measuring against J1 pin 1.I disconnected J6 from the HV control card, located at the back of the 'fridge, and found that the +12 volt supply recovered to about 11.9 volts, so I suspected that the problem was that it was being loaded down by something. This supply gos to three places...the icemaker fan, the LV control card, and the evaporator fan (in some units)I eventually found how to access the connector that feeds the icemaker, and disconnected it, in order to eliminate the ice fan from the supply. This made no difference, and the resistance across the supply was now 2800 ohms with J6 disconnected. I also noted that the two smoothing capacitors (C12 & C13) on the HV control card were getting hot...probably due to a high ripple current. As a load of 2800 represents a load current of only 4.3 mA, I concluded that the fault was on the HV card.The +12 v supply is generated by an AC/DC rectifier directly off the 115 volt supply, giving a primary voltage of nearly 300 volts DC. This is chopped by a little horror of a device called a TOP247. It generates an AC waveform and drives a little transformer to generate +12 volts. This sort of circuit can be highly unstable, and it probably went into a high frequency mode, chopping at several megahertz.Replacing the HV control card solved the problem. I have retained the card, and I intend to reverse engineer it's schematic, then try to repair it. The card cost about $150, but the actual defective component is unlikely to cost more than a few dollars, and I have a suspicion that the two electrolytic capacitors (C12 & C13) may be the cause.
Did research on the internet, and learned that two capacitors on the main circuit board located on the back of the frig had gone bad. Tried to replace the two capacitors on the old board, but no success. So, I ordered the whole board and plugged it in. Only problem is new board is not programmed to frig. So, had to program frig. by following directions found on the internet. I saved at least $200. Thanks.
Removed the back cover for the HV Board. Unplugged the cables from the old board, put the new board in the same exact way, connected the cables. Put the back cover back on. The hardest part was the programming. You may need to read it again in order to figure it out, but not too difficult. Face it there are only so many buttons, eventually you will go "AH-HA" ! I saved myself around $250! I will most definately use this site if I have other appliances that do not work! You guys rock!~Lisa~
I almost ordered the Door Led Board but read where somone else had the same problem and ordered the HV control board. Pulled the refrigerator out to gain access to the back of it. Safety tip make sure you unplug it. Located the HV Control board, release the wire connectors from it, and simply replace the board. Plug it in and follow the directions which come with the new HV board on programing it. Entering the Code off the units Data plate.
Unplug Refrigerator access panel in the rear unscrews- disconnect the wire harness from circuit board- remove board (snaps out). Insert new board ,attach wires close access panel. Plug refrigerator in. reprogram fridge code with ice maker controls code is on label with model number and s/n number.
The repair was quite easy. I had already removed the panel cover on the rear and removed the plastic cover several days before that. I had also pulled the wire harness that went to the upper left connector that has allowed the refrigerator to operate without the flashing lights while the part was enroute. I unplugged the refrigerator, disconnected the remaining connectors, and popped the old electronic control board out. I had to be very careful here as the plastic snaps that held it in were very hard to spread apart and I did not want to break one. Put in the new board, reconnected all of the wiring harnesses (each has a different pattern so you cannot mix them up). I plugged the refrigerator in and using the code from the label on the upper right hand side of the refrigerator and the instructions that came with the new board, I programmed the correct code in and everything was operational. Put the covers back on and went back to work. I did all of this in a 15 minute break between teleconference calls.
First it was critical to have gone on-line to see that many other people have had the EXACT problem with their Maytag refrig. It went crazy at 830pm the Wed before Thanksgiving! There would have been NO WAY that we could have had that repaired with the holiday! I went to Parts Select and ordered the part that very night ( they were open and taking customer service calls until 11p EST). They had the part to us first thing Monday morning! The installation was simple and they provided perfect instructions as to the programming of the code. I cant believe that Maytag has not dome some sort of recall on the control board for these refrigerators. When we looked at the old one, there was moisture on the plastic panel and the 2 capacitors were corroded and bulging. We are going to try and get those replaced, so we have a spare board. It was a whole lot cheaper to replace the board, and many would just resort to paying a repair bill of >$500.00 for the cost of a $200.00 part and about 15 minutes. You dont have to be an electronics major to fix this either!This whole thing saved us well over $2500.00, as we are not buying a new refrigerator. I will say that we will never buy another Maytag at this point! All beware and might want to have an extra control board handy!
took off plate in back, plastic cover, unplugged cables, changed out board held by clips. plugged cables into new board. Plugged refrigerator back in. entered refrigerator code into door of refrigerator using temerature controls. Regrigerator started cooling. Done
After doing a Google search for the issue and landing on the PartSelect website, I reviewed the explanations and directions listed. When I received the part I moved the fridge from the wall, disconnected the power, used the nut driver to remove the cover plate, removed the plastic protection shield and then unplugged each wire connector. Removing the HV board gave me the most trouble since I did not want to break the retaining clips. After a few tries I figured out how to push and pull at the same time to get the board out. Reinstallation was a breeze and the wire connectors went back easily. When power was restored, no more flashing and opening/closing. Re-programming the unit was easy by following the enclosed instructions. So much easier than hassling with a repair person and paying a lot more money to perform a simple repair.
After we had a service repair man diagnose the problem I pulled the refrigerator out locater a 8"x8" galvaized panel on the back of the refrigerator and removed 4 screws and plastic cover, then unplugged 4 cable harnasses from the UV board and snap it out. Applied reverse order to install new board (make sure you unplug the refrigerator prior to starting. Read the programming instructions and had the unit working in less than 15 min.
The high voltage circuit panel in the back of the unit was bad. I was going to first replace the low voltage board behind the water/ice dispenser, but a post clued me that the real problem was the high voltage board. The part came the next day and took only a few minutes to install. The board must be programmed once installed. Follow the included instructions carefully and exactly. Fixed the problem completely.
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