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PartSelect Number PS11757568
This surface burner infinite control switch is just over two inches long. It's shaft is one inch long, and is double flat. This switch is palnut mounted and the 'off'position is at the top.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I cut off power supply, removed screws that held panel on, pulled the switch up and disconnected wires. Installed new switch, being sure to connect wires in the correct places. Refastened panel to stove top. Turned power back on and tested switch and it Worked.
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1st-turned off power to stove top, then removed 2 screws to loosen the control panel. 2nd- I removed the shorted infinite switch by using a pliers to loosen the nut holding the burner in place, undid the electrical connections (noting where each was attached to the old control) and reattached them to the new control. Then I undid the nut holding each of the other 3 burner controls, detached the wires to the old fan switch, reattached the wires to the new fan switch, i removed the red idiot lights (by moving them sideways) from the escut kit. I then reattached everything to the new plate, secured the panel to the stove top, turned the juice on, And it worked as it should, and the new plate made the stove top appear almost new. 30 minutes.
Turned off power. Removed two screws to free up section of cooktop containing 4 switches - 2 good, 2 damaged. Removed the dials from top of the 2 damaged switches. With an adjustable wrench, loosed nut on stem of switch that fastened switch to assembly. Noted which of the 5 wires on each switch went on which tab. Pulled off 5 wires on one switch, finished removing the nut and removed broken switch. Put in new switch, attached the nut, and replaced 5 wires in exactly the same position, Tightened nut. Replaced dial. Repeated procedure for second switch. Placed section containing the 4 switches back on cooktop and inserted/tighted 2 screws holding it in place. Turned on power.Told cleaning people to NEVER put aluminum foil under the burner units again. The foil shorted across the power and damaged the switches.
My husband actually did the repair and it went very smootly. He removed the palnuts on all switches even though we were only replacing one switch. Then removed the two screws to the switch cover, and slide the cover up to expose the switches. He then took off one wire at a time from the old switch and replaced it one the appropriate place on the new switch. Exteremely easy repair and thank goodness because I (his wife) was the one who broke the switch. Thanks PartSelect!!
changed out switch
Purchased 1 infinite switch and installed it on the left front burner. problem still there so I used the switch that I replaced on the rear burner and all was ok. The front switch had been sending full heat to the rear burner,but the problem ended up with the rear switch. The switches are interconnected and all are the same part number.Diagrams on partsselect were the key to a successful repair.To access the switch you need only to remove the fan cover, remove the 2 screws holding the switch assembly and move it foreward and then lift to reveal slide on connectors. Power to the unit is off at the main panel during the entire process.
This was a piece of cake since the parts were a perfect replacement. I took the element apart and replaced the two receptacles by cutting the old wires and using the included wire nuts to splice the wires. The two switches were easily replaced by carefully connecting the wires like they were hooked up on the old switches. The indicator light was also easily replaced, although snapping the lens into place seemed to take a lot of force (I was afraid that I might break it). All in all, quite easy.
Turned off the power at the circuit breaker panel. Removed the control knobs from each switch and the four palnuts under each knob. Removed the two screws inside the vent well that hold the escutcheon in place. Pulled each switch up as much as possible to expose the wires attached underneath to each switch blade. Remoced each wire and replaced them on the new switch. Same procedure for all four switches. Reassembled in reverse order. Turned on power and all four burners lit up and were regulated as if new. I saved $244.00 doing the repair myself.
Removed two screws holding 4-switch panel, drew a simple diagram to assure placement of wires on correct terminals, removed and replaced switch. Switch works fine, but original knob does not fit shaft of replacement switch. Will try to order new knob, but it probably won't match the old knobs, so range will have one new knob & three old ones. I wish the order page noted that new knobs must be ordered to fit the new style shaft.
I first removed power from the stove at the breaker panel. Next, I used the assembly diagrams provided by the parts select website to determine how to open up the stove panel. I opened the oven door to access the four screws holding the front panel holding the knobs. I removed the screws and was able to tilt up the front panel to allow access to the four burner switches. It was easy to swap out the wires on the old defective switch to the new replacement switches. I replaced both defective switches in 15 minutes and tiled the front panel back down into its normal position and put the four screws back into the panel to secure it. Then I turned on the breaker and did a check to see that the parts I replaced were working properly. They were and the total repair time was around 30 minutes without rushing at all.
The burned control switch was not functioning. It took a while to find the range model number and then the part number of the switch. It was cool that I could see a picture of the part with the part number on the internet so that I was sure to buy the right part. Once the part arrived, I turned off the power to the range (circuit breaker, 220 V) removed two screws, used nut driver to disconnect switch handle, marked the 5 wires going to the switch, used the needle nose plier to remove the wires, the attached wired to the new switch, placed switch back into position, used nut driver to attach switch to the control unit. Rescrewed control unit in place with two screws.turned on circuit breaker and tested. All good. It is clear that this old Jenn Air range and be completely redone to good as new. All parts are available
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband). First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
Took an volt/ohm meter tested the connections, burner resistance and wiring AFTER turning off the power. Note: I used the volt/ohm meter to check to be sure power was off. Just in case the circuit breaker box wasn't labeled correctly. After determining the switch was open and was not making connection I ordered a new one from Parts Select. I also ordered a new burner and wiring with socket since the old one appeared well used with age. By replacing the burner, wiring and switch it put the stove top in a like new condition. Parts Select was fast and had great prices. It was very easy and the connections to the switch were plug type making the repairs very easy.
We turned off the breaker and removed the screws holding the control panel in place. They are behind in the exhaust area.The control unit was lifted up to reveal all of the wires and the switches. Using pliers I pulled off the connectors keeping up with which wire was from which connector. The switch then dropped out and the new one went in and wires were reconnected. It was not difficult. Only challenges were that it was very dense and hard to get at the wires and you had to be careful to keep up with the wire locations.Well worth the time...I can do something other than boil water on that burner!!
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